Howdy,
The trigger on my new 640 Pro is smooth, but heavy even after a couple thousand dry fires.
I've had good luck with an APEX kit in my 20-some year old 638, but I installed that kit about 10 years ago.
What do the P-F revolver cognoscenti recommend?
I was into 10mm Auto before it sold out and went mainstream, but these days I'm here for the revolver and epidemiology information.
Interested to hear this also.
Just tried to upgrade my well broken in, clean, and lubed S&W 332 with an Apex kit. Got a very light primer strike in under 20 rounds of factory ammo. Took it home, removed the mainspring and extended firing pin with associated light FP return spring. The trigger return spring seems positive enough, so it remains in the revolver. This isn't the first time this has happened either. Can't recall which other J-frame the Apex failed me on but it was a .38.
My impression is that sometimes they work but absolutely must be rigorously tested. Probably try a Wilson reduced mainspring next. These strike me as absolute minimal strength with low margins for any degrading factors.
The extended firing pin and ultra light return spring bother me a bit as well. How durable is the new pin? (Obviously no dry fire without snap caps.) Is that very weak return spring really necessary and just how marginal is the striking energy being delivered? How likely is the FP to remain forward on a dirty revolver or is it just meant to function as a shock absorber? That kind of stuff. I wanted to stick with the original FP but I thought I would give this kit every chance this time around.
My apologies to weasels.
Experienced light firing pin hits/misfires. Reinstalled the factory hammer spring and left the other Apex springs in the gun. Problem solved.
Paul
I had no luck with Apex "duty" kits in my J-frames -- light primer hits about 2% of the time. Tossed them and went back to my original combo: a stock hammer spring and a lighter rebound spring from Wolff -- either 14 or 15 pound; I believe 14. It's been a while since I installed them. I tried a few different weights at the time.
I could not get an Apex duty kit to detonate federal primers reliability in either a Model 60 or a 642.
No experience with any other brands. Option “or” (leave it as is and maybe pick up some Captains of Crush?) is the only option I see being viable for a carry snub.
Well, you may be a man. You may be a leprechaun. Only one thing’s for sure… you’re in the wrong basement.
On my 642 I ended up with the stock mainspring and one of the lighter Wilson rebound springs, plus a bit of smoothing. I do remember that the reset felt too mushy with the 13# rebound spring.
This is what I wind up doing most of the time.Originally Posted by paul105
Just changing the trigger return spring.
I recently installed a Wilson kit in my 442. 8# hammer spring had no issues with CCI primers but I left the stock rebound spring in, the lightest one (13#) I was short stroking the trigger and the 14# seemed heavier than the stock blue spring.
Apparently I won the lotto with my Apex kit in the 638, but I dunno if I want to deal with that again. I'll certainly vet the gun after any change I make, but I'm rationing primers right now. I'd hate to pop off 200, find out I need to yank the kit out, make a change and then pop off 200 more.
I was into 10mm Auto before it sold out and went mainstream, but these days I'm here for the revolver and epidemiology information.
That's where I'm at with small changes lately: I ask myself if I really want to expend the ammo to proof a minor modification...
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