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Thread: RFI - 223 and 300 BLK Reloading Tools

  1. #11
    I do all my rifle loading with two passes through the progressive press (for 300BO and 223). One of the things this helps is it is easier to give them a bath in the F.A.R.T. to wash the lube off. Without primers they dry out better without a dryer.

    Use the lanolin lube as discussed here, don't use too much or the shoulders will dent.

    I use the WFT, and rigged up a drill to hold it, details here.

  2. #12
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    I have tried a number of practice bullets, and the sad thing is they are always going to be more expensive than .224 bullets, by many times. Ex. you can find 55 of 62 grain FMJ .224 bullets for under .10 each if you shop around and buy in bulk. I'm even getting BTHP 69 grain from RMR for well under .20 each (and RMR is a great company in my experience and I like to support them).

    I have rarely found decent supersonic bullets for blackout under .20 each (in the past 6-12 months) and those were usually blems or really purchasing in bulk. Here are a few I have found to work well:

    Hornady 125 FMJ. Basic FB bullet that shot surprisingly good groups for a basic FMJ bullet.
    Nosler 110 Varmaggedon. Usually these are quite expensive, but you can get blems for a good price. I think I saw shooters pro shop had blems for about .20/each as of a couple of hours ago.
    Any of the "m80" 147-150 grain FMJ BT bullets (I say M80 bullet very loosely, but just your cheap 147-150 grain bullet). You are getting away from a similar bullet weight compared to the Barnes Tac-TX but, depending on your accuracy requirements, they might be the cheapest option. They require a bit less powder, and are usually available from somewhere. I used to get these for .14-.16/each if I bought at least 1000, but now I am seeing them closer to .20/each for a bulk buy.

    Hope that helps!

  3. #13
    I ordered some 110 grain VMAX today as a mid point between plinkers and Barnes TAC TX. I am not sure I really needed the Barnes for defense but I wanted to load some up anyway to have on hand since they are spoken so highly of. I don't see myself needing a lot of high volume plinkers for my gun. I just need enough to test function and reliability, zero, and do some light practice now and then.

  4. #14
    Hornady factory ammo with the 125 FMJ and the 110 V-max both shoot relatively accurately from my Ruger American Ranch so I’ve got a supply of each, fortunately purchased over a year ago. I’ve also been able to secure a few pounds of H-110.

  5. #15
    Member jtcarm's Avatar
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    Jul 2018
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    Texas Cross Timbers
    You need neck lube in addition to the case.

    I use white Teflon powder and dab just a bit in the case mouth with a Q-tip. It’s designed for lubing the axles on Pinewood Derby cars and clings to surfaces despite being quite slick. It’s much less messy than graphite lubes.

    I bought a bulk pack of Speer 125 TNT bullets for .300 BO just before the panic hit.

    I guess I should invest in case-forming gear. I bought 500 cases formed by someone else and most of it was crap. I’ve had enough factory brass to satisfy me so far.

  6. #16
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    May 2014
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    Gotham Adjacent
    Quote Originally Posted by okie john View Post
    Lee claims that their 4-die eliminates the need to lube cases. If that’s true, then a lot of the hassle of loading bottleneck cases just vanished.

    Okie John
    Did Lee update their .300BO dies then? When starting out I had enough stuck cases, before I got super serious with my lube (heh), to buy a stuck case extractor. And needed to buy some additional decapping pins.

    Lyman offers a carbide equipped sizing die for .300BO. I will probably pick up a set of their Pro dies when they are back in stock. At somepoint I'll have to set all my reloading equipment back up. Sooner than later, since I'm going to actually do some shooting.

    The 110-grain .30 Carbine bullets look better than the 115-grains out there. Plus 50-60% cheaper than Speer TNTs. But will the run in my Rattler? And if not, what will I use them for?

  7. #17
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    Aug 2012
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    Central Front Range, CO
    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post

    The 110-grain .30 Carbine bullets look better than the 115-grains out there. Plus 50-60% cheaper than Speer TNTs. But will the run in my Rattler? And if not, what will I use them for?
    I was the one that posted a link to a .30 carbine load.
    My fist attempts were not successful… the COAL seems so much shorter than most 300 BLK loads (1.8-ish vs 2.05”) that it caused several misfeeds and resulted in several bullets pushed deep into the cases. I probably need to increase my crimp.
    But I’m going to try Hornady 125 gr and 110 gr now, even though they’re more expensive. I’m thinking that keeping the OAL in the 2” realm will help feeding a lot.

  8. #18
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    May 2014
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    Gotham Adjacent
    Quote Originally Posted by GyroF-16 View Post
    I was the one that posted a link to a .30 carbine load.
    My fist attempts were not successful… the COAL seems so much shorter than most 300 BLK loads (1.8-ish vs 2.05”) that it caused several misfeeds and resulted in several bullets pushed deep into the cases. I probably need to increase my crimp.
    But I’m going to try Hornady 125 gr and 110 gr now, even though they’re more expensive. I’m thinking that keeping the OAL in the 2” realm will help feeding a lot.
    Maybe I'll just grab a RCBS mold for 7.62s at 130-grains - https://www.rcbs.com/bullet-casting/...54/355342.html

    At 100-yards, I imagine I can work up something close enough for accuracy purposes. The short barrel of the Rattler won't be able to drive cast lead fast enough for accuracy issues.

    Our maybe we should do a P-F group buy from NOE Moulds - maybe have them do a 115-grain type mold in this vein: https://noebulletmolds.com/site/309-129-pt-exp/

  9. #19
    Site Supporter entropy's Avatar
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    Apr 2012
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    I found the 125gr Hornady’s on sale a while back, and picked up 5 boxes. I’m going to try them with H110 and see how it rolls. Hopefully some data this week. The .300aac was on the back shelf for a while while I putzed with other stuff. I got the bug to build a 10.5” molded after the Noveske Johnny as a general purpose semi auto hunting gun, and suppressor host. That’s where I’m at now. I still have 3-4 boxes of the 190gr Sub-X when the can issue gets settled and it shows up. They worked good out of the 8”, along with the Barnes 110s which were phenomenal. I’m hoping the little extra barrel length tightens things up more.
    Working diligently to enlarge my group size.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by entropy View Post
    I found the 125gr Hornady’s on sale a while back, and picked up 5 boxes. I’m going to try them with H110 and see how it rolls. Hopefully some data this week. The .300aac was on the back shelf for a while while I putzed with other stuff. I got the bug to build a 10.5” molded after the Noveske Johnny as a general purpose semi auto hunting gun, and suppressor host. That’s where I’m at now. I still have 3-4 boxes of the 190gr Sub-X when the can issue gets settled and it shows up. They worked good out of the 8”, along with the Barnes 110s which were phenomenal. I’m hoping the little extra barrel length tightens things up more.
    Please report back as you learn. I have several hundred 125 gr Hornadys and H110 as well. As my cheapest 300 blackout projectile (other than the 110 gr .30 Carbine bullets that don’t seem to give a desirable COAL), i’d like to work out a good practice load using them, before going on to build more with 110 grain V-MAX and 110 gr Barnes TAC-TX. Mine will be used out of 7.5} and 8” barrels.

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