This could be posted in one of any 3 or 4 different pages, so apologies if it's been discussed and/or in the "wrong" place.
I should have an opportunity this weekend to not only shoot another match but to also finally get a hard zero on my PCC. Details of which are a little foggy in my mind at the moment, but IIRC it's a 10.5 in barrel, free floated, with a Holosun 512C on top.
if the use-case for this thing is steel challenge, USPSA, etc. then at what distance is the convention to zero?
Does the above offend? If you have paid to be here, you can click here to put it in context.
@rob_s
There are likely multiple ways to do it, but this was what was recommended to me by my recurring top-10 National GM PCC friend who runs a circle dot reticle and I borrowed it from him.
This is my zeroing map, yours will be different depending on height over bore.
I zero to the top of the circle dot at 25 yards and that gives me accurate holdover ranges. It also prevents the circle dot from blotting out the target at those ranges.
As you know, USPSA requires precise head shots on classifiers at 7 yards and partials often to 10-15 so I want to be able to have references at those distances.
This way I get to use all the reticle.
Unlike actual rifles that are 3-4x faster in velocity and don’t have as much bullet drop, PCC drop is a little different. My 25-50 yard range is fairly flat on my trajectory curve.
I zero my shotgun, PCC, and pistol all at 25 yards, which keeps things simple for me.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
As clarification, I’m using a 25 yard zero for PCC. But using the top of the ring as the POA and not the center dot.Originally Posted by GJM
Because otherwise you lose all the resolution of the top half of the ring. Might as well let it help.
@rob_s
There are likely multiple ways to do it, but this was what was recommended to me by my recurring top-10 National GM PCC friend who runs a circle dot reticle and I borrowed it from him.
This is my zeroing map, yours will be different depending on height over bore.
I zero to the top of the circle dot at 25 yards and that gives me accurate holdover ranges. It also prevents the circle dot from blotting out the target at those ranges.
As you know, USPSA requires precise head shots on classifiers at 7 yards and partials often to 10-15 so I want to be able to have references at those distances.
This way I get to use all the reticle.
Unlike actual rifles that are 3-4x faster in velocity and don’t have as much bullet drop, PCC drop is a little different. My 25-50 yard range is fairly flat on my trajectory curve.Interesting approach, thanks for sharing. Ideally I'd like to do something similar with the reticule option I have available on mine as well. Have to see if I can spend enough time at the public static range on Saturday to work out all those details. I'd love to have a 7-yard zero with the dot and some other method of using a different part of the reticule for further out.
ETA:
maybe I'll try zeroing at 7 (if that close is available at this facility) and then see where it puts me at 25 relative to the reticule. Then maybe do some checks at 10, 15, & 20 if I can.
Last edited by rob_s; 12-02-2021 at 01:47 PM.
Does the above offend? If you have paid to be here, you can click here to put it in context.
I would recommend trying initial zero at 25 with top of the ring hash mark and see where that puts you at 7 yards.
Because if the center dot then winds up being within 1/2 inch at 7 yards that’s probably good enough because if you’re at 6.5 versus 7.5 yards it’ll move that 1/2 inch down or up anyway.
Functionally what this kind of zeroing does is lets you use the space between the top ring and the center dot like @GJM prefers with the circle only on pistols. You’re framing the target in the top space at 10-15 yards.
good point.
I was coming at this thinking in terms of "real" rifle starting at 25, moving to 50, etc. near to far.
In the case of the PCC, still start at 25, but then move in.
Does the above offend? If you have paid to be here, you can click here to put it in context.
It’s very game specific for me. What types of shots are typical at what distances for the sport.
Typically 25-50 yards is just an open paper. But there are some classifiers with 25 yard heads or partials so I want confidence on those shot. But I also require confidence for head box A zone at 7 for this sport.
It’s probably overthinking but with PCC velocities being 1/3 of a rifle, bullet drop does enter into it at the 25-100 ranges for the kind of zero I do. But in this application I’m essentially doing a rising zero and the flat part of my trajectory is 25-50. I don’t need any resolution higher than the top of my ring because none of the shot trajectories go above that in a meaningful way with my ammo velocity.
As an aside, there seems to be a school of thought scaling zero based off relative velocity.
Some top USPSA competitors shooting minor will use a 15 yard handgun zero with 850-900 fps ammo which essentially scales to a 25-35 yard rifle zero from a time / gravity standpoint.
Personally, like @GJM I do 25 yard zeros for most of my stuff, whether pistol or rifle.
But for slow stuff it makes sense to use the reticle in a different way where the top is the POA.
Now that I own a PCC, I had a Sig Romeo 8T stuck on top of it. The manual indicates a 65 MOA large circle with hash marks at every 90 degrees. There are BDC dots below the 2 MOA central dot at 5, 9, and 15 MOA from center.
If I’m understanding the scheme proposed here, I would zero the top of the central hash of the 65 MOA ring at 25, be about at the bottom of the hash at 50, have a zero at 7, and be in the BDC dots at 5? That seems to make sense.
Because it’ll be a while until I can hit an outdoor rifle range and go further than 25, my plan is to at 25 with this scheme, and then just see where everything else lands.
Reply With Quote