3 way switch weirdness

[UNK]

A friend had a ceiling light that stopped working. Basic multi-meter showed both 3 way switches had power and it alternated which terminal when they were switched. OK... Check power at ceiling box, 120v, switches seem to work fine with alternating on-off and both switches activated alternately. Track light doesnt work. Has 120v at the button that twists into the track, but the light wont work, new bulb....tried same light in another track, it worked. She got a new track, it wont work.....after some puzzlement, I kept the meter on the track when switching the actual track fixture on, the 120v goes to 10v and no light. What the WTF?

Is it a weird switch issue/failure? Just replace both switches and drive on?

ive seen them fail by not passing power through, and only one working, but both seemed OK when using the basic analog meter, never seen one fail with a load but otherwise appearing OK.

Ive disassembled the actual spot type fixtures, nothing seemed wrong, the manual switch worked fine, all contacts seemed intact and properly arranged.

Figured it out yet?
Im thinking something in the hot side wiring. First thought is a switch or breaker most likely switch. I think Id try turn circuit off, pull switches out of wall still wired, turn circuit back on then once I had low voltage Id go to the last 3 way and check output side then input side and keep going back till I found the problem point. Ive seen this a few times and its always been at a switch or at a fuse.

[Malamute]

Figured it out yet?
Im thinking something in the hot side wiring. First thought is a switch or breaker most likely switch. I think Id try turn circuit off, pull switches out of wall still wired, turn circuit back on then once I had low voltage Id go to the last 3 way and check output side then input side and keep going back till I found the problem point. Ive seen this a few times and its always been at a switch or at a fuse.

I havent been able to address it yet, her schedule hasnt had an opening. The plan at this point is to replace both switches, see what happens, and go from there. Ill report back on results.

[UNK]

I havent been able to address it yet, her schedule hasnt had an opening. The plan at this point is to replace both switches, see what happens, and go from there. Ill report back on results.

If one was bad id replace both since the are both about the same age but one could get a lot more use than the other. Id still try tapping on the toggle before i replaced anything to try and isolate it. If that didnt show anything id do the voltage check as outlined above. Hell it could go all the way back to the breaker. Is this a fuse or breaker panel?

[Malamute]

If one was bad id replace both since the are both about the same age but one could get a lot more use than the other. Id still try tapping on the toggle before i replaced anything to try and isolate it. If that didnt show anything id do the voltage check as outlined above. Hell it could go all the way back to the breaker. Is this a fuse or breaker panel?

Roger that.

Nothing else seems to be operating in a flaky fashion. Theres likely a number of things on the circuit.

House is maybe 20 years old, so breaker panel. I think shes been in it about 6 years, it worked when she moved in, she doesnt recall when it stopped working, she just asked me about it recently.

[Wheeler]

Take a keyless fixture with you with an incandescent bulb in it. Wire that to the wires coming from the ceiling box and see if it works. If there’s a bad rap or you think you’re getting some sort of inductive reading that will tell you pretty quick. Might save you from having to replace switches and chase ghosts.

When you replaced the track did you replace the power head as well?

[Malamute]

Take a keyless fixture with you with an incandescent bulb in it. Wire that to the wires coming from the ceiling box and see if it works. If there’s a bad rap or you think you’re getting some sort of inductive reading that will tell you pretty quick. Might save you from having to replace switches and chase ghosts.

When you replaced the track did you replace the power head as well?

Yes, replaced the power head when replacing the track. Both old and new ones seemed fine (120v at the contacts) by basic analog tester check for voltage. Both sets of lights had LED bulbs, which didnt illuminate at all. Ill check with an incandescent next time i look at it.

I wired the female end of an extension cord to the wires in the ceiling box, plugged a radio in,...and the voltage dropped to 10v when the radio was turned on.

[Wheeler]

Yes, replaced the power head when replacing the track. Both old and new ones seemed fine (120v at the contacts) by basic analog tester check for voltage. Both sets of lights had LED bulbs, which didnt illuminate at all. Ill check with an incandescent next time i look at it.

I wired the female end of an extension cord to the wires in the ceiling box, plugged a radio in,...and the voltage dropped to 10v when the radio was turned on.

You have a bad connection for sure. While you have the switches out check the neutral taps. Most residential electricians bury those in the switch box rather than the fixture box.

[UNK]

Take a keyless fixture with you with an incandescent bulb in it. Wire that to the wires coming from the ceiling box and see if it works. If there’s a bad rap or you think you’re getting some sort of inductive reading that will tell you pretty quick. Might save you from having to replace switches and chase ghosts.

When you replaced the track did you replace the power head as well?

Whats a rap?

[Borderland]

I havent been able to address it yet, her schedule hasnt had an opening. The plan at this point is to replace both switches, see what happens, and go from there. Ill report back on results.

Switches are cheap. They're built that way.

[Wheeler]

Whats a rap?

Typo. Should have been “tap.”