Springfield “Garrison” 1911

[RJ]

I ordered a few more spring options to play around with, and another couple types of ammo (a Winchester flat nose, and the JHP version of the S&B) to get some more data on pin load options. I'll leave the current springs in the gun and shoot some more when the new ammo comes in.

Made it to the square range yesterday. As an ammo experiment, I had bought a box of 50 Winchester "Ready" Flat Nose 230 FMJ 880 fps (sku RED45) and 50 S&B 230 JHP 889 fps (sku SB45C). Gun still has the 18.5# WC recoil spring and factory 23# mainspring. Other non-factory parts include a WC BP ambi safety, WC flat bottom FPS and a WC extra power firing pin spring.

The Winchester ammo had 3 fail to chamber malfunctions during fire. The bullets just didn't go in. I also had 2 malfunctions, where it would not feed when being loaded (sling shot). This was with my CM RPM 8 rounders. This ammo is also very dirty and very smoky. Not going to order any of that again, that's for sure. The S&B hollow point had no issues, all 50 rounds went down range with no drama.

No problems with the 18.5# spring. I didn't do much in the way of metrics, but I played some with top of front sight hold versus combat hold. I did have two instances of locking up the slide stop, where I inadvertently push on the pin, and lock up the slide. Argh.

I'm happy with the 18.5# recoil + 23# mainspring combo, at least as much as I can be, with the very small number of rounds through the gun, and based on my very limited 1911 experience. I don't perceive any real ill effects on my shooting; I shoot about as well / poorly as I did previous to the spring change.

Overall, it was a good day, even though neither ammo worked out. And I learned the gun shoots to combat hold, with the FO front, which I prefer for irons, so that was a useful discovery. I still have trouble seeing the front sights, my arms aren't long enough these days. Gun is at 448 rounds.

I plan to standardize on Federal American Eagle 230 ball, and keep the S&B SB45A ball as backup, since the gun is cycling 100% with that ammo.

[LockedBreech]

I’m all set for stainless 1911s (Colt Government and Smith E-Series) but was browsing blued 1911s and this thread. Fiancée who usually doesn’t pay much mind to my gun browsing because “everything just looks like your Glocks or AR to me” (hey, fair enough) casually goes “oh that one is really nice, I wouldn’t mind having that one as my 1911.”

Not two weeks later (last Friday) she got a big raise at work and later that night when browsing gun stuff I saw the opportunity to put a new Garrison on layaway for absurdly cheap (about 630 with tax and shipping).

I’m not one to bite my thumb at the universe sending a clear message, so I’ve got one on order and I have time to holster shop. Valentines done except for dinner, thanks P-F.

Though I’m thinking I should let her pick the holster out rather than buying it for her. That sorta thing is personal.


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[RJ]

Fitted a WC BP hammer and sear today. Learning has occurred.



I refitted the SA safety, as I couldn’t manage to wriggle the WC Ambi safety back in. I’ll work that out in a day or two. It wasn’t too bad, overall. I’d bought a few tools but had most all of what I need. Very interesting to take the gun apart and get it back together. Took the opportunity to Flitz the rails slightly, as well as the trigger bow. They’re much smoother now. It’s not a Glock, that’s for sure.

[RJ]

Just a quick update on the Garrison; I've been learning a lot by taking it apart and installing parts myself. I'm very happy with how it is working and is is almost where I want it to be for The Pin Shoot in Michigan.

I've addressed the binding in the WC Ambi Safety by removing it and filing on the axle to ease fitment. It now operates very satisfactory with a mechanically pleasing snick snick action.

I replaced the trigger components (hammer, sear, disco) with WC BP parts. I am in the process of trying out a WC short trigger, and although now the reach is perfect, the gun needs some more tuning of the sear spring to reduce the trigger press. I got an average of 5 lbs 8.6 oz using my Lyman digital with 10 pulls yesterday, so it is pretty stout. To try and fix this, I have a Cylinder and Slide Lightened sear spring on order (supposed to drop press 1.5 lb), as well as a regular sear spring to mess around with (retaining the factory part unmodified) in case the C&S spring doesn't work out. My goal is around 4 to 4 1/2 lbs.

The last experiment is probably going to be a flat trigger. Right now I am looking into both the Chambers Custom CCO medium flat and Harrison Designs HD-105-N flat face.

I had a very odd result at this week's range session I also wanted to dive into. The target below is from "The Test(*)", * = 2 magazines, 5 rounds each. 78-0X is not particularly good for me, and I'm obviously off a bit in elevation. What worried me more however was the group shifting to the left. As a lefty, this almost never happens; when I am not paying attention to my grip, my group is always low and right. So shooting left was a bit of a shock.


I sat down with the gun today and examined the sights. It appeared to me the rear sight was "off" a bit, so I got my HF caliper out to confirm. I measured a delta of about 0.030", left side to right. Meaning the rear sight was in fact off to the left slightly. It appears to have left the factory that way, as I've never noticed it before this week.

I was wondering what effect 0.030" would have on my poi at 10 yards, so I did a quick calculation:


...the results of which seem to confirm what I am seeing; i.e. the poi is about 1.5" off of poa at 10 yards. Which is not a huge deal, but kind of annoying. I looked at the rear sight retaining screw (1/16 hex) on the top, and it was tight. I broke it free and pushed on the sight by hand, and it did not move. So the sight at least is in there good and tight. I went so far as to set up my rudimentary sight pusher tool on it, and it did not budge. I'll be looking at (relatively) low cost options to address this; the MGW310 at $115 at Brownell's being the leading candidate at the moment.

[Robinson]

@RJ I have enjoyed your posts on this subject. I like seeing someone explore the possibilities and really learn about the 1911.

If it were me I would take the opportunity to install a Heinie Ledge rear sight since I have that rear sight on pretty much all of my guns. But that is a personal choice so carry on.

[Elwin]

If you're looking into flat triggers, I highly recommend the 10-8 Performance version. I have one in both of "my" 1911s ("wife's" has a Wilson short in it). I'm a huge fan, and any future 1911s will get one installed immediately.

In long shooting sessions the hole for an overtravel screw can start to blister my finger. The 10-8 trigger (as well as the Harrisons and likely others) doesn't have an adjustable overtravel and therefore has a solid face. I got the triggers for that and found I preferred them overall as well.

[RJ]

@RJ I have enjoyed your posts on this subject. I like seeing someone explore the possibilities and really learn about the 1911.

If it were me I would take the opportunity to install a Heinie Ledge rear sight since I have that rear sight on pretty much all of my guns. But that is a personal choice so carry on.

Thanks! I'm amazed if what I write is interesting, being a complete noob to all this.

So this comment got me looking at sights (ha!) and what I have, vs what I could put on the gun, assuming I get a real sight pusher. In doing research online, it appears based on multiple sources the Springfield Garrison slide uses a Novak style, 65 degree cut for the rear. Armed with that information, I went looking for options and came back to the Harrison Designs rear sight (just an option, there are many). I'm looking at plain black, one of these:

https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/rear...ovak-style-cut

But what height to pick? I got my calipers out again, and confirmed the rear on my gun is 0.325" tall, and has a 0.125" notch (they may be Novak rears, for all I know). Anyway, I busted out my sight elevation calculator tool, took an estimate of how much I was off in elevation using the same target, and plugged in the numbers:


It would seem that to fix my problem, besides correcting the position of the rear sight on the gun, I probably could benefit by switching to a 0.350" tall rear. This would correspond to the Harrison HD-004.5-S, with a useful square 0.140" notch. (I'm focusing on the rear because I have and like the Dawson FO I have on the front, and I have to mess with the rear anyway.

Thanks for the tip on the Heinie Ledge's, I'll go have a look at their web site armed with this information.

ETA: I didn’t find a Heinie Ledge at 0.350, but did locate a 10 8 option.

https://www.10-8performance.com/1911...nt-rear-sight/

[Robinson]

Rich, yes the Heinie Ledge is available in either .325 or .375 heights. The .325 height typically can replace a Novak Lo-Mount rear sight as they are also a .325 height.

I am using the Heinie Ledge on a couple of my Springfield Armory Operator pistols and that arrangement works well for me so far. But if your gun is shooting low then going to a .350 might be a better option for you. Harrison and 10-8 both offer excellent parts.

[RJ]

Installed the C&S Lightened Sear spring today. Holy smokes.


So that’s about a minus 1.75 lbs over what I had, using a 10 pull average on my Lyman digital. The difference in dry fire is…startling. Looking forward to getting it to the range.

[Archer1440]

I'll be looking at (relatively) low cost options to address this; the MGW310 at $115 at Brownell's being the leading candidate at the moment.

Lots of people here have posted positive feedback about the “Wyoming sight tool” which is basically a spring loaded punch. I haven’t used one myself, but I have the impression it works well and is reasonably priced.

I have an MGW Sight Pro and a plenitude of different slide shoes for the thing, but there are times when a proper punch and hammer are more than enough for a quick adjustment.