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Thread: Advanced Site Zeroing Tricks

  1. #41
    Member Wake27's Avatar
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    Jun 2017
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    Eastern NC
    Quote Originally Posted by BillSWPA View Post
    The last time I sighted in a new optic, I started at 25 yards to get on paper, then moved to 50, then finished at 100 before I ran out of time. Each time I moved farther out, I had to make minor adjustments. There is zero likelihood that the adjustments made at 100 yards will cause me to miss anything closer than 100, but confirming shooting slightly high at 100 gives me significantly more confidence if my target is farther than 100 than if I had only zeroed at 50. Ideally I should have moved out to 200 to see what happened there, but we don’t always get ideal.


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    Oh I see what you’re saying now.


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  2. #42
    Member SecondsCount's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
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    Utah, USA
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Lehr View Post
    Since you brought up 'scenarios' the problem I see is that Murphy says if I'm presented with a long-range problem, I'll have the short-range solution.

    I prefer the 100 yard zero for everything on rifles because I'm not smart enough to remember holds for two zeroes.

    Plus IMO under stress you're more likely to shoot the dot or cross hair picture rather than hold over/under, so essentially inside 200 you're better served with the 100 zero.
    I'm not going to be doing any holding with the red dot. 99% I run an LPVO with a BDC or mil reticle.

    The 100 yard zero is solid advice. I just use 25 because it is easier to see the target and I can confirm my groups. I'll give the 100 yard zero a try the next time I am at the range with that carbine.
    -Seconds Count. Misses Don't-

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Sanch View Post
    It might take someone, like me, an extra hour or more of round-trip driving to get to a 50 yard range.

    It’s easier to stabilize a non-magnified red dot at closer ranges.

    It’s easier to see the holes and adjust rather than using a spotting scope or walking down to the target.

    Ultimately, it’s just easier. Right now I have several uppers I built over the last year with un-zeroed optics on them for over several months. Because perfect is the enemy of good.

    Someday I’ll make it to a 200 yard range to zero them. Someday. Until then they’ll be essentially useless. Or I figure out a compromise that can be done at an indoor 25 yard range.
    Sanch, are you shooting indoors?

    I'm not bagging on you at all, you have to do what you have to do, but for me much of the fun of having AR's is shooting mult5iples inside 50 or metal at 100 to 200 yards. If I had to limit myself to 25 yards I'd have one AR, zeroed using a 25/100 offset target.

    In other words, I feel your pain.
    Adding nothing to the conversation since 2015....

  4. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Lehr View Post
    Sanch, are you shooting indoors?

    I'm not bagging on you at all, you have to do what you have to do, but for me much of the fun of having AR's is shooting mult5iples inside 50 or metal at 100 to 200 yards. If I had to limit myself to 25 yards I'd have one AR, zeroed using a 25/100 offset target.

    In other words, I feel your pain.
    Unfortunately yes, my range situation is I have relatively easy access to indoor 25 yard, and a hassle to get to an outdoor range to get to distances of 50 to 200. And the times I do make it to the outdoor range, it's generally some kind of event, where I am not able to zero but could shoot an already zeroed carbine if I wanted to.

    Which is why I rarely shoot carbines anymore these days and stick to handguns.

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