From 2014- Frank Proctor (Delta/GM competitor)
a "zero" shot at 10 yards which "mimics" a 50 yard "zero."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-FUsH8jt6E
I have used this with success. My rifle is a 16 inch frankengun/pencil barrel. I zeroed with 55g/62g at 10 yards and they were close enough for my intended application. The optic in question is an Aimpoint Pro.
I can hold +/- 2 ish inches at 3 yrds to 100ish yrds POA/POI. I have not shot the "zero" beyond 100ish yards.
YMMV/FWIW
I am not your attorney. I am not giving legal advice. Any and all opinions expressed are personal and my own and are not those of any employer-past, present or future.
Originally Posted by BillSWPA
I should know off the top of my head but can't remember. Based on the chart, sure, though that is still dependent on velocity. Assuming its close enough, why not just zero at 50m?
That’s the point I was trying to make. Why do something that’s “probably close” instead of just zeroing at 50/200?
My posts only represent my personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect the opinions or official policies of any employer, past or present. Obvious spelling errors are likely the result of an iPhone keyboard.
It might take someone, like me, an extra hour or more of round-trip driving to get to a 50 yard range.
It’s easier to stabilize a non-magnified red dot at closer ranges.
It’s easier to see the holes and adjust rather than using a spotting scope or walking down to the target.
Ultimately, it’s just easier. Right now I have several uppers I built over the last year with un-zeroed optics on them for over several months. Because perfect is the enemy of good.
Someday I’ll make it to a 200 yard range to zero them. Someday. Until then they’ll be essentially useless. Or I figure out a compromise that can be done at an indoor 25 yard range.
@BillSWPA was talking about zeroing high at 100y which would be an imperfect 50/200y zero. If someone can’t get to a 50y range, I’d be surprised if they would have an easier time getting to a 100y range that wouldn’t allow them to shoot at 50y.
I totally understand what you’re talking about. A lot of people have done the math to approximate a longer range zero at a shorter range for the reasons you’ve already stated. See the post above regarding Frank Proctor’s 10y zero.
My posts only represent my personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect the opinions or official policies of any employer, past or present. Obvious spelling errors are likely the result of an iPhone keyboard.
My reasoning is that shooting at 100 yards will make errors in the zero more apparent than shooting at 50 (the same reason a 50 yard zero should be confirmed at 200). I do not care if I am off by an inch or fraction thereof at 50. I care about being close enough so that bullet rise or drop is not an issue for as long a distance as reasonably possible.
Not sure what you mean by errors. A 50m zero should be confirmed at 200 to see if the round is actually going to impact POA at that distance.
What’re you trying to be close enough to?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And this is the trick—as Wake writes- confirming the zero at the distances you will possibly be shooting at, writing it down, and save the target (B8 is perfect) and write dope distance and load on it. Recheck often.
But I understand the OP’s problem of distance to a range so I am sympathetic to his request.
I am spoiled to have two good ranges, one goes to 200 yards, the other goes to 1000. So I tend to not think about only having 25 yards to work with.
That said, I’ve seen small errors in close zero’s that don’t even come close at distance. That’s why I confirm at 200 yards. Even with a red dot, I can picture the target wearing a hat, aim at that and be on at 300 yards. It’s simpler for me than zeroing at 100 and always aiming high.
A 10 yard zero might get the OP close enough for now but I can’t imagine it being true out to 200 yards simply due to a 1/4” off at 10 would be what 5” off at 200? Kinda like shooting 1 shot groups, you’re chasing your tail.
The last time I sighted in a new optic, I started at 25 yards to get on paper, then moved to 50, then finished at 100 before I ran out of time. Each time I moved farther out, I had to make minor adjustments. There is zero likelihood that the adjustments made at 100 yards will cause me to miss anything closer than 100, but confirming shooting slightly high at 100 gives me significantly more confidence if my target is farther than 100 than if I had only zeroed at 50. Ideally I should have moved out to 200 to see what happened there, but we don’t always get ideal.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Any legal information I may post is general information, and is not legal advice. Such information may or may not apply to your specific situation. I am not your attorney unless an attorney-client relationship is separately and privately established.
Reply With Quote