Here's what I've learned and figured out:
1. Series A serial numbers may be irredeemable. Some series B p380s may need to go back to the factory, but both of mine are reliable after the below modifications:
2. New, updated recoil springs (RS) are a must. The p380 seems to require very heavy recoil springs, and only the updated ones work. As well, they need to be replaced regularly--maybe as often as 500-1000 rounds. Buy extra. Installation of the updated springs is a challenge because the resting length before "set" is much longer than the slide. Use eyepro! I held the slide over the edge of a table, and that helped. Because the springs are so stiff, no female has succeeded in racking my p380s.
3. New mag springs. If you have FTFs after replacing the RS, that's probably the cause. Buy extra.
4.
Polishing the inside of the lower barrel lug, and the slide stop rod where they interface. I used a Q-tip with polishing compound spun in a drill. Make sure to lube this area. I use a small amount of Lucas grease.
5. While superficially Glocklike, the p380 requires 1911 levels of lubrication.
6. The following parts may help, but are probably not needed:
Tool steel striker
https://lakelinellc.com/shop/ultimat...r-380-pistols/
Striker guide
https://gallowayprecision.com/kahr/c...d-p380-pistols
After all this, I have not had any malfunctions of any kind.
Is the p380 worth it? I think so. In my hands it
shoots like a much bigger gun, and way better than a LCP.