Stephen Camp thought highly of the Buffer Technology recoil buffer. Has anyone used them?
I have...lifespan is measured in both time and rounds; they tend to harden and get brittle and disintegrate if you're not constantly bathing them in oil, or they shred and gum up the recoil spring assembly, locking block and tunnel in the slide if you shoot them longer than they can tolerate. I like the idea of buffering the slide and frame but the execution of it...not so much.
If you're using it constantly and don't mind swapping it out every 500-1000 rounds, and are on a schedule to do that every month or two, then it's probably a not bad upgrade honestly. If you shoot like me, where I'll spend a lot of time on one thing and every now and again break out the BHP so I can spend the first couple hundred rounds going "why don't I use this more often" and then the next couple going "Oh, right, THIS is why I don't use it more often"...either drop one in before you take it out and then junk it when you put it back in storage, or just shoot it without one..
YMMV of course
I tried the Wilson Combat version of that part in a Beretta 96D because .40 + Beretta = frame cracks. Was having nose-down misfeeds on almost every round from about 4 through 8 left in the mag. Took the buffer out and no more problems. I believe the issue was a change in timing of the slide cycle due to shortening of the travel and returning the energy stored in the "spring" of the buffer as slide velocity rather than absorbing the energy as recoil with rearward frame velocity. Haven't investigated them further and don't intend to.
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Not another dime.
"It's surprising how often you start wondering just how featureless a desert some people's inner landscapes must be."
-Maple Syrup Actual
I had the Wilson Combat version in a Springfield 1911 for a little while, but I didn't put enough rounds through to honestly test it. I think with the older Mk1 and Mk2 frames, the buffer makes some sense, but it seems like it would be less important with the more durable MkIII frames, and I presume the SA-35. I'm definitely not an expert, but that's how the story pieces together in my mind.
Well, I do have plenty of sand paper on hand...
I had to do the same on a pair I bought for one of my MKIIIs many moons ago. I used fine wet/dry sandpaper with WD40 and you couldn't tell they were ever "adjusted". It is a quick and easy fix.
Anyone ever hear of LockLeather?
https://urbancarryholsters.com/order...b-holster.html
G10 definitely needs to be wet sanded, not dry. You don't want to be breathing that dust. And gloves are a pretty good idea, to keep the glass fibers and particles thereof out of your skin.
Once you're done, it likes to be saturated with oil. I use baby oil.
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Not another dime.