Maybe those AR pistol buffer tubes covered in foam weren't such a bad idea after all... I would totally try one again for a really compact pistol cal AR build
Maybe those AR pistol buffer tubes covered in foam weren't such a bad idea after all... I would totally try one again for a really compact pistol cal AR build
Good information!
I messed around enough in the dry attempting cheekweld that I realized I don't have the dedication to learn how to do it with any alacrity.
I will just be sticking with standard stocks since I already practice seldom enough with a long arm and don't need another confounding technique.
Project complete for now. Testing required.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
@GJM has excellent taste for functional things.
This thread got me shopping…
Canebrake rattler WITH a Rugged Razor suppressor on the right.
Compared to the 8” AR “pistol” without a suppressor.
Got a couple stripped lowers ordered and one will be similar to Clusterfrack's and in Blackout.
Then my primeval Boomer brain spat out a commercial product I saw c. 2017 that appears like a perfect Cheekweld Pistol: the FightLite SCR .300 BO with a Shockwave style grip.
Went to both Brownell's and FightLite's sites and all whole firearms and rcvr/bolts are out of stock. Shocking!
Wondering if any P-F'rs own or have experience with those firearms?
"Backstabbers and window-lickers rise to the top of human organizations like oxygen-rich turds in a champagne fountain. I suspect it's been that way since at least the Bronze Age." _ Me. 2016
I really like the Rattler but it’s a little gassy to the face.
Going to get some black RTV to seal the charging handle.
Much better. Great mod.
In case anyone is interested it was easy and only cost a few bucks for the silicone.
Black Permatex silicon gasket maker from auto parts store for a few bucks.
Car wax on the parts I didn’t want stuck.
Alcohol to clean the parts I did want stuck.
With the charging handle in place, I pulled a little traction to maximize the gap.
Used a trick from detailing and wrapping cars days and cut up an old plastic gift card to use as a trowel to lay a nice flat layer and scrape off excess. I waxed the card beforehand.
Q tip to wipe off most of what got on other surfaces.
Hair dryer.
Next morning use a sharp edge of the cut up card to release edges from the frame carefully.
Side cutters to trim off any dingleberries.
Done.
Trained with Bill Rapier from AMTAC shooting two weekends back.
His teaching a shot cycle with the AR of Safety, touchpoint, slack, and shot. Where touchpoint is the stock on your cheek. This is for really fast hits inside a room and based on the index you built through reps with the stock in your shoulder. He commented how that takes your first shot time from high ready from 1.4 seconds with a shoulder position to .5 with a cheek weld. His context was the position is fine for body shot. Not good for eyeball hostage shot.
So we have someone from a tier 1 unit explaining how that unit is shooting in a very limited context for a cheek weld.
Tagging @SouthNarc for context.
Last edited by Clusterfrack; 12-16-2021 at 11:42 AM.
Every first shot you take on any threat is going to be the most important, speed to first hit is going to be priority 1.
Training those ‘really fast hits inside a room’ or at room distance should be given the lions share of training attention for defenders that will be reacting to a threat instead of assaulting in a team. (This means us in our houses or cars as normal people or as unsupported solo LEOs)
This is even true in barricade home defense scenarios. The cheeked, averted muzzle ready position is far faster to first shot than shouldered low ready and also allows a more averted muzzle that requires no head movement while providing a very clear field of vision to ID threats.