CR2032 Batteries

[SoCalDep]

I've vowed to never buy another Duracell after multiple lots of their alkaline AAs have destroyed my shit by leaking.

Panasonic, Sony, and Cellewell for me.

Alkaline leaks. All of them. The fact you chose Duracell’s to leak biases you.

I’ll go with large scale experience and testing vs personal experience of a different type of battery (alkaline vs button cell lithium) and say that you should probably look outside your paradigm.

If you’re buying batteries for flashlights and such that take AAs or AAAs… get envelops or IKEA Ladda batteries. If the light takes Li-Ion batteries make sure you get good batteries with a protection circuit and a good charger. They work great but are basically chemical weapons if they detonate. Alkaline batteries are good for powering kid toys until you’re so sick of listening to “Let it Go” or “Into the Unknown” that the destructive leak is a welcome release.

Context is important. If your going to trust your life or the lives of your family members to a pistol optic and it takes 2032 batteries, put Duracell batteries in it.

[flyrodr]

I got out my battery tester to check the remaining charge on some rechargeable batteries in flashlights. I put the first battery on, and the charger started blinking red. What the heck - - - never seen that before. Must be dead batteries in the tester. Pulled the cover . . . one of the Duracell AAs had barfed its innards all over the contact. Removed it, picked, scraped and brushed off all I could, and then gave contact and circuitry a shot of Corrosion Block. Back in business. Far from the first, and certainly won't be the last. Not sure why they fail, but it is easy to leave batteries in place without checking until the run down, or dribble out . . .

[vcdgrips]

If SOCALDEP says Duracells, the subject is closed.



Duracells it is.

[Spartan1980]

Alkaline leaks. All of them. The fact you chose Duracell’s to leak biases you.

I’ll go with large scale experience and testing vs personal experience of a different type of battery (alkaline vs button cell lithium) and say that you should probably look outside your paradigm.

If you’re buying batteries for flashlights and such that take AAs or AAAs… get envelops or IKEA Ladda batteries. If the light takes Li-Ion batteries make sure you get good batteries with a protection circuit and a good charger. They work great but are basically chemical weapons if they detonate. Alkaline batteries are good for powering kid toys until you’re so sick of listening to “Let it Go” or “Into the Unknown” that the destructive leak is a welcome release.

Context is important. If your going to trust your life or the lives of your family members to a pistol optic and it takes 2032 batteries, put Duracell batteries in it.

Reply taken under consideration. Duracell alkalis are the only ones I've had leak in about 30 years now and they've done it on several occasions with bats bought out of differing lots. So I just dumped that brand and went with those that I choose for lithium CR123s. I do have one light that will take a rechargeable lithium and it's bats are protected but it's getting into the very old category now. I run lithiums or Eneloop rechargeables in anything critical these days. That allows me to just buy Amazon bulk alkalis for everything else.

[Unobtanium]

Duracell Procell.

[MistWolf]

If SOCALDEP says Duracells, the subject is closed.



Duracells it is.

What if Aimpoint says Renata?

[WDR]

What if Aimpoint says Renata?

Then Aimpoint is wrong.



Duracell for me in all my CR2032 using optics. That was after I read many threads here and elsewhere about that size battery in various red dot optics. I had poor results with Energizer brand, Sony was just "ok" ... YMMV.

[SoCalDep]

What if Aimpoint says Renata?

So far Renata has worked well and given the relatively small sample size of my somewhat formal testing, I’d say Renata batteries are good-to-go but if given a choice I’d go Duracell based on my experience... but just by a bit.

If you’re talking about the ACRO P-1 with its Cr1225 battery I’m all about the Renata and I probably have 50 of ‘em... and one is in my main carry gun right now.

I have some Energizers from back when you couldn’t get 1225 batteries because COVID and 1225 batteries are common for thermometers so I had to take what I could get. Those batteries are waiting for when the “keep up with the Jones’s” folks offload their P-1s at a low low price. I’ll be getting P-2s as well, but the P-1 is still cool and I’ll grab one or more additional of those.

Sooooo..... The P-2... The Duracell in that thing has been on the high setting or one step down for the past two months and doesn’t seem any less bright. As much as I like the original ACRO this thing kicks it in the balls.

I believe, based on testing and experience, that Duracell is the top choice for betting your life on a 2032 battery keeping an optic running. If I had to choose something else Renata would be my first choice and everything else (major brands) needs a MUCH shorter replacement schedule.

I can’t speak to other sizes such as 1632.

[JohnO]

Costco has a 12-pack of Duracell 2032 batteries for a good price.

[SecondsCount]

Reply taken under consideration. Duracell alkalis are the only ones I've had leak in about 30 years now and they've done it on several occasions with bats bought out of differing lots...

That's been my experience, and several others on another gun forum, with Duracell AAs. I have had Kirkland/Costco and some off brand AAs leak, all of them within the expiration date. Rayovac and Energizer have been good. Since then I have mostly gone to rechargeable Enerloop batteries or lithium based.

I recently picked up some Duracell 2032's to try at Costco and so far, so good.