Calling All Stippling Gurus...

[MEAT]

I just had one of my Glocks stippled by Glockworx, and I'm thinking about trying my hand at it. I like the larger waffle pattern stippling, but I need to make a custom tip to do it. I don't really want to modify a bunch of brass screws, but Brownells sells a wood stippling punch that I can modify to suit my needs.

My gun:




http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=1...647&subid=8832

I assume these are made out of steel. I'll probably turn down the head to around 3/16", and turn down/thread the rest to fit the soldering iron/woodburner.*

Which Soldering Iron would you recommend?

What kind of power will I need to heat it up once it's been modified?

Those of you who hate stippling, please refrain from asking why, suggesting griptape or hogues, or saying its ugly & stupid. Until I had mine done, and experienced how good the grip actually feels, I agreed with you. Now I see what all the fuss is about...

[Al T.]

I heart stippling. I just use a cheap soldering iron, so no help there.

I would suggest getting comfortable with a Pmag or Glock mag first.

[167]

How would modifying the punch be any easier than modifiying a screw?

I use a Craftsman soldering iron to do my stippling, but something like this would probably work better.

[MEAT]

How would modifying the punch be any easier than modifiying a screw?

I use a Craftsman soldering iron to do my stippling, but something like this would probably work better.

Most of the screws I've seen modified were brass, and didnt sound like they lasted very long. I'm hoping that the steel will last longer, and it already has the pattern I want cut into it. I have a friend that owns a steel fab shop, so it will be easy enough to modify the brownells punch. My main question is about the amount of power/heat I'll need to get it going, since it's steel & has a much larger footprint.

[167]

My guess would be pretty hot. Better safe than sorry, just go with the highest wattage unit you can find. I think mine is 30 watts and does the job nicely, but that is with relatively small brass tips.

[vcdgrips]

In my experience, the best way is the hardest way, one pore at a time with a narrow tipped soldering iron or wood burning kit. I would be concenernd that the Brownelll's punches will not make the pore deep enough absent some significant downforce which wold likely bring the rounded edges into play.


Be advised that the polymer of P-Mags, Glock Mags and the Glock pistol themselves all behave differently when given the heat. While practice on a non pistol item is helpful, there is no substitute for a gentle and patient touch. The first stick is the hardest.

Surface prep with a dremel is needed to go to the next level visually. A dremel can also take off too much material too qucikly both abrasively and via heat.
In a worse case scenerio, you will dremel right thru (or nearly so) the grip and ruin the frame.

Gun # 2 I stippled. Glock 35. Removed fingergroves, cut mag pull outs, misc frame touchpoints, very little surface prep.


Gun Number # 42 (approx). G 21SF. Removed all factory checkering and fingergrooves, 360 degree stippling. Signifacnt surface prep with dremel reducing/elimnating molded checkeing, mold lines etc.

[MEAT]

My guess would be pretty hot. Better safe than sorry, just go with the highest wattage unit you can find. I think mine is 30 watts and does the job nicely, but that is with relatively small brass tips.

I think I have it narrowed down to either the one you linked, or this one:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Wood...ool/100609590/

The Dremel/Bosch one from Home Depot has a shorter distance between the grip and tip (more control), and it heats up another 100*-150* more than the Weller model from Lowes. I might stop by Radio Shack to see if they have a variable wattage model.

[Al T.]

I used a rasp to prep the frame. Works fine and has less (not zero though) risk of removing too much materiel.

[NMBigfoot02]

Does anyone have a good soup to nuts tutorial for stippling? I'd like to try my hand on my M&P, but I'm a little concerned about effing up the frame.

[MEAT]

In my experience, the best way is the hardest way, one pore at a time with a narrow tipped soldering iron or wood burning kit. I would be concenernd that the Brownelll's punches will not make the pore deep enough absent some significant downforce which wold likely bring the rounded edges into play.


Be advised that the polymer of P-Mags, Glock Mags and the Glock pistol themselves all behave differently when given the heat. While practice on a non pistol item is helpful, there is no substitute for a gentle and patient touch. The first stick is the hardest.

Surface prep with a dremel is needed to go to the next level visually. A dremel can also take off too much material too qucikly both abrasively and via heat.
In a worse case scenerio, you will dremel right thru (or nearly so) the grip and ruin the frame.

Gun # 2 I stippled. Glock 35. Removed fingergroves, cut mag pull outs, misc frame touchpoints, very little surface prep.


Gun Number # 42 (approx). G 21SF. Removed all factory checkering and fingergrooves, 360 degree stippling. Signifacnt surface prep with dremel reducing/elimnating molded checkeing, mold lines etc.

My plan is to combine your style of stippling with this style:


I plan to use part of the outer circle footprint as part of my pattern. I like the combination of the dense stippling and the highs and lows of the circle. Nice work by the way.