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Thread: Tactical Accuracy of Polymer-framed Pistols vs. Metal Pistols

  1. #51
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    I wish Sig would have combined either the slide release and the take down lever, or the slide release and the decocker.

  2. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by KevH View Post
    Another solution, depending on the gun, was to have the factory barrel re-crowned.
    Another simple change to increase accuracy and keep reliability could be an o-ring like the one some HKs have. It's position is at the barrel near the muzzle. It reduces the play between barrel and slide. I had an HK45 with such an o-ring. It was very accurate.
    Last edited by P30; 09-12-2021 at 03:39 PM.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevH View Post
    I'd bet a shilling if you lowered the recoil spring rate it would work just fine with the polymer grip.
    That was what I initially intended to do but I stumbled on and impulse bought the AXG frame first.

    This gun has a compact/carry length slide but IME the FS 320s are noticeably over spring.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by AMC View Post
    I've also personally never experienced premature slide lock (wonder if there's a treatment for that?) with a P226, but did have it happen once or twice on my 320 X5 Legion, interestingly enough. Never the 320 Pro Fullsize however. Seen it happen with fair regularity with recruits though, especially in the first several rounds out of the holster. Further indication that it's shooter induced by grip weirdness.

    I've been meaning to try a large grip module (Large...Hah! It's more a bigger medium). Might provide more purchase area for my support hand during fast shot strings. Still working in teaching that support hand to pull its weight proper!
    I asked a couple of the guys who would benefit from a large grip why they were using the “ladies” grip, “M” being for for Mujeres ….

    The mid mag lock back issues have actually been more common among our FI’s and SRT guys who shoot high grip vs our line folks.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevH View Post
    A Gen1-3 Glock can be made just as mechanically accurate as mid-90's P228 or even more so.

    One solution was a properly fitted aftermarket barrel. Bar-Sto went a little crazy with this adding lots of material to the barrel feet. Not needed. KKM does a really decent job in a near drop-in format.

    Another solution, depending on the gun, was to have the factory barrel re-crowned.

    My 2002ish "E" series G22 could not hold anything tighter than a 4" group at 25 yards. A wise old Glock sage suggested getting the factory barrel re-crowned. I did.
    To my astonishment it was able to shoot 1.5" groups at 25 yards from a rest with factory Federal American Eagle 180gr ammo. Very respectable and changed my appreciation for the gun.



    In a Glock, what matters most is how the barrel fits the slide (barrel hood area and the muzzle end) and that the barrel crown isn't damaged, marred, or imperfect from the factory (they frequently used to be) and that there is enough spring tension to hold it in place. The slide to frame fit can rattle and the gun will still be very mechanically accurate. There is a reason the Gen5 barrels are designed the way they are. They should have been like that thirty years ago.
    I’ve had PD trade in 40 Glocks recrowned but never tried it on a 9mm.

  6. #56
    Delta Busta Kappa fratboy Hot Sauce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevH;[URL="tel:1265735"
    1265735[/URL]]A Gen1-3 Glock can be made just as mechanically accurate as mid-90's P228 or even more so.

    One solution was a properly fitted aftermarket barrel. Bar-Sto went a little crazy with this adding lots of material to the barrel feet. Not needed. KKM does a really decent job in a near drop-in format.

    Another solution, depending on the gun, was to have the factory barrel re-crowned.

    My 2002ish "E" series G22 could not hold anything tighter than a 4" group at 25 yards. A wise old Glock sage suggested getting the factory barrel re-crowned. I did.
    To my astonishment it was able to shoot 1.5" groups at 25 yards from a rest with factory Federal American Eagle 180gr ammo. Very respectable and changed my appreciation for the gun.


    In a Glock, what matters most is how the barrel fits the slide (barrel hood area and the muzzle end) and that the barrel crown isn't damaged, marred, or imperfect from the factory (they frequently used to be) and that there is enough spring tension to hold it in place. The slide to frame fit can rattle and the gun will still be very mechanically accurate. There is a reason the Gen5 barrels are designed the way they are. They should have been like that thirty years ago.
    Was there any visual indicator of crown damage on the stock barrel or was that just a good educated guess by your sage?

    Also, re:Bar-Sto vs KKM, does the amount of extra material matter if it’s custom fitted anyway, or are you just saying that KKM made the job of getting a custom fit significantly easier?
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  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hot Sauce View Post
    Was there any visual indicator of crown damage on the stock barrel or was that just a good educated guess by your sage?

    Also, re:Bar-Sto vs KKM, does the amount of extra material matter if it’s custom fitted anyway, or are you just saying that KKM made the job of getting a custom fit significantly easier?
    The theory on defaulting to cutting a new crown on older Glock barrels is during times of high demand Glock was known to get sloppy about keeping up with tooling wear though some are visibly off once you know what to look for.

  8. #58
    Member KevH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hot Sauce View Post
    Was there any visual indicator of crown damage on the stock barrel or was that just a good educated guess by your sage?
    No visual indication whatsoever. It looked fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hot Sauce View Post
    Also, re:Bar-Sto vs KKM, does the amount of extra material matter if it’s custom fitted anyway, or are you just saying that KKM made the job of getting a custom fit significantly easier?
    You want a very snug fit at the barrel hood. KKM's are nearly drop-in so you only have to remove a slight amount of material if any at all.

    Wilson barrels are snug, but not snug enough. Bar-Sto is extremely expensive and typically requires a stupid amount of material to be removed to have them fit properly. They are very high quality, but for a Glock I would just stick with KKM.

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