X300U cotter pin retention?

[Evil_Ed]

Might seem like a dumb question but how are X300u carriers retaining the cotter pin, or keeping it pushed up/out of the way? I initially removed it but found that I was actually accidentally popping the battery latch during handling (when pushing the tab for momentary on, you can hear the latch snap shut again)...so I put some tape on it to keep it in and flat against the body, but that's causing some issues, too. Very specifically with a Bawidamann Gotham holster, but also a little bit with a Phlster Floodlight. I made some adjustments to taping it, but I'm kind of looking for a goldilocks solution at this point...any ideas?

If I just leave it as it is (without any retention) it sometimes pops out, and does not stay flat...and reholstering with it not laying flat/partially out leads to all kinds of problems.

Old tape (and you can see how it was causing issues):




Redoing the tape to this way (different gun but both were having the same issues in the same Gotham and Floodlight holsters):



The redone way seems to work better/slicker but I'm still wondering if there's a better way..

[P226SAOFan]

What about a tiny bit of bailing wire so you can twist it shut?

[theJanitor]

If it were me, and the light was dedicated to the gun, I'd probably build up the area of the tailcap with some epoxy, so it would wedge itself against the trigger guard. I hate that cotter pin

[AMC]

If it were me, and the light was dedicated to the gun, I'd probably build up the area of the tailcap with some epoxy, so it would wedge itself against the trigger guard. I hate that cotter pin

Seriously....@#$% those pins. Surefire is becoming like HK and Safariland. They hate you....and they want you to know it.

[Evil_Ed]

Hah, the bailing wire got me thinking...years ago when I moved out here (rural-ish MN), my dad as a gag gift got me one of these, as well as an extra roll of 16 gauge wire for...reasons? I guess he thought I was going to be bailing hay in my spare time? I threw them in a box and put them away somewhere...

Anyway, after reading that, I dug out and found them, and viola - it worked! 16 gauge wire is about the thickest that'll fit in the holes/under the latch. The wire with that klamper tool is 17 or 18 gauge I think; slightly smaller than 16 gauge.

On the downside, if you need to replace the batteries, you're basically replacing the wire too. On the upside...it ain't coming out, and it's very low profile compared to that cotter pin.

[Archer1440]

The cotter pin was never really meant for pistol use- it’s there for use on a long gun. If you need to keep the battery door shut, and since your rails and battery door don’t time up to have the door right up against the guard (which is why you had to pull the door backplate to make it fit the P30 in the first place), it’s probably better to shim the space between the back of the battery door and the trigger guard- fuzzy Velcro, a piece of ranger band glued to the door, a dollop of Sugru, or something similar.

Heck, you would be better off wadding up that tape and shoving it between the trigger guard and the door. Less likely to cause issues for you than what you did there.

Or call Surefire and see if they will send you a new door. They do a good CS job in general, in my experience.