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Thread: Best Silencer Mount (2021)? Flash Hider vs Brake?

  1. #1

    Best Silencer Mount (2021)? Flash Hider vs Brake?

    What's the current state of muzzle device mounts using the standard 1.375-24 Omega/Bravo/Keymo system?

    In looking around, it seems like virtually all of them are muzzle brakes and not flash hiders. Which I find odd since coming up in the early 2000s in ARs, I always thought FHs were far superior to brakes. At least for non-competition.

    I'm wondering if that's because brakes are more popular than FHs these days, or because they offer greater wear protection for the silencer by acting like a protective device within the first chamber. Sacrificial something, which is easier to replace (thread off old brake, thread on new brake) versus repairing a silencer baffle.

    Or are people preferring brakes on shorter guns since maybe the FH doesn't do too much anyway out of a small gun unsuppressed, you'll just maybe reduce the fireball down from 8 feet to 2 feet? So in the event you're running unsuppressed on a shortie gun, the brake is better?

    Or is it because brakes look cooler on IG with all of the holes and designs?

    Or brakes are better for competition and the flash doesn't matter in a competition?

    I've heard some people complain that the 3/4 prong FHs have a ping sound even when shot through a silencer, so maybe people hate that and prefer brakes?

    What kind of strategy makes sense for brakes versus FHs assuming you have several guns you will swap the silencer around? Some ideas:

    If it's 5.56 than if it's under 12.5" use a brake since maybe the FH wont do much and you'll have more unburnt powder and will need the sacrificial nature of the brake more. If 5.56 and 12.5" or over, then use a FH, since you're also more likely to shoot it unsuppressed sometimes. Whereas a 10.5" you probably always want suppressed.

    If it's a 308 long range gun, use a brake since you're unlikely to ever shoot it unsuppressed due to potential bullet drop issues at long range, and the brake protects the silencer more, so the fact that it's a brake and not a FH is irrelevant if you shoot it 100% of the time with the silencer.

    Also any suggestions on which muzzle devices like Griffin, Dead Air, Hellfire, etc, that use the same pattern?

  2. #2
    Member Wake27's Avatar
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    Ok so super short answer IMO, go with KAC or SureFire since they have FH and MB options.

    Longer answer, and to address some of your OP questions, brakes on short guns suck. General rule of thumb, anything under a 14.5 that may see defensive use, go FH. That changes if dedicated suppressed. If you don’t think you’ll ever shoot the gun without a can, or at least never without being in full control of the environment, put a brake on it bc most designs will act as a sacrificial baffle and reduce wear on the can, some also claim a very minor increase in suppression with a MB+can.

    Brakes work really well for their purpose and there are a bunch of hybrid devices now that combine attributes for a Jack of all trades solution, but if it reduces recoil and/or muzzle rise, it will almost if not always increase flash and audible report. Short barrels will do that no matter what so putting an MB on a shorty can be a bit rough.

    I can’t speak to keymo though lots of people do like it and it’s gaining a lot of steam. Still, when I bought my first can last November, general consensus was that KAC has the best attachment method with SF in second. Not sure where keymo stacks against that or if there just wasn’t enough data. I do believe that Forward Controls Design has some keymo MDs and assume that they have a FH variant as they’re not overly fond of MBs.


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  3. #3
    I use the Griffin Armament Plan A mount along with Griffin micro flash hider. I went this route because I wanted a FH, and I wanted something very lightweight. At the time I evaluated this and the Q Plan B, and went with the Plan A due to Griffin having a better muzzle device selection.

    I'm running the Plan A on multiple hosts but haven't really had enough rounds through the system to give you much by way of data points. There was an initial issue where the can very minimally loosened (I didn't tighten it enough) but I caught it way in time before I launched the can or did any internal damage. Hasn't been an issue since.

    That being said I've only been shooting suppressed (“A luxury, once enjoyed, becomes a necessity”), and when I recently shot with just the FH I had no issues and was not nearly as obnoxious as a brake.

  4. #4
    I feel like the KAC QDC mounting system is the best on the market, hands down. You will pay for it and their cans aren't easy to get.

    KeyMo is probably my next favorite.

    The simple reverse threads of the OSS cans seem to be working good as well. Their low back pressure seems to create less carbon build up on the muzzle device.

    I don't care for the ASR or GemTech Bilock and avoid both brands.

    I don't want breaks on SBRs. There are times when they are not shot suppressed and I don't want the brutal blast caused by a break. It flashhiders for me.

  5. #5
    Plan A flash hider.
    #RESIST

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