So if someone wanted to buy the body only that’s listed in the classifieds, what heads are compatible? Anything from Malkoff or are they only compatible with Modlite heads?
So if someone wanted to buy the body only that’s listed in the classifieds, what heads are compatible? Anything from Malkoff or are they only compatible with Modlite heads?
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits - Mark Twain
Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy / Where is the wisdom we have lost in knowledge?
I’m not very educated on Malkoff stuff, but the Modlite heads are swappable with the Surefire DF heads so I would think anything compatible with an 18350 and the same thread pitch would work fine.
I think most holsters are going to be designed for Modlite heads so you might run into issues in that area if you use something else.
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The SF dual fuel head, or the Malkoff version for the dual fuel will fit. Threads are larger than the traditional E series SF.
It’s the XL version: https://malkoffdevices.com/collectio...xt-3-4-6-volts
So the E2XTL not the XT or XTD, right?
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits - Mark Twain
Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy / Where is the wisdom we have lost in knowledge?
Just a follow up to my Modlite CS note: Today the battery replacement arrived… with two batteries. A pleasant surprise.
That’s good to hear. Earlier this year I purchased a bunch of Li-Ion batteries... Some 16650s, a few 18650’s, and my brain said to order 18350s when what I really should have (or thought so at the time) 16650s. When the 18350s arrived I realized I couldn’t use them in my flashlights and they went into my storage.
Fast forward several months and I have a Modlite pistol light that takes 18350 batteries. Cool! My two partners had one also so I gave each of them one of my spare 18350s and kept one for myself. A couple weeks later I noticed the Modlite wasn’t working. I pulled the factory-supplied battery and put it on my NiteCore charger that has a digital percentage readout and it read 0%... and continued to read 0% for a couple hours. It was “dead”. I threw in my spare and it lit up just fine. I ordered another three (aftermarket protected circuit good quality) batteries and pressed on.
This weekend I taught a class and after the first day when dry-firing, I noticed the light was super dim. I think that the ease with which the switches articulate may have allowed the switch to be activated in the soft pistol case that was bouncing around in my equipment case. It was low but not dead and it charged up just fine. I don’t think this had anything to do with the original Modlite battery dying, but I think it’s a good practice to remove the battery if one is storing/transporting the pistol in a way in which the switch can be activated.
Absolutely. I have an upcoming flight and already planned to pull the battery from the light due to TSA rules with LiIon batteries, which require flying with them in carry-on, but I believe this is a good general policy.
The energy potential in these batteries is really on a quite different level than many people are aware of. They are fairly reliable (on par with 123A’s, at least), reasonably durable, and push current boundaries for light performance, but they demand a judicious level of respect.
I use Thyrm cases for mine, which are not inexpensive, but I have yet to find better overall solutions.
Update. Did a little bit of troubleshooting as recommended by Modlite customer service, but I was unable to resolve the issue. The switch would click into place without the ARC paddles installed, but once they were put on, it would only click into the off position. I did see someone on FB who figured out a way to shave a little off the ARC paddle to fix this, but Modlite swapped out my body for a new one, and I installed it last night and it clicks nicely into the on and off positions.