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Thread: Sig P229 project gun

  1. #211
    Site Supporter taadski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by breakingtime91 View Post
    hey, quick question. Do you find that the 228 and 229 have different trigger feels?
    Like HCM said, largely no. There are some minutia we could discuss but it’s largely just that.

    Also, like mentioned, dropping in another trigger that suits your preference shouldn’t affect any “trigger work” you’ve had done on the pistol beforehand.


    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    Highlighted the punch because you can get an $8 three-punch set from Home Depot and grind the side of one of them flat in a couple minutes and you're GTG on this, with two more punches you can use for other stuff. No need to buy the specialty $20+ punch from some gun tool specialist.
    You can also simply use a smaller punch that fits the width of the 1/2 hole (radius) and tap the pin free. That’s this armorer’s solution. 🤣

  2. #212
    Quote Originally Posted by taadski View Post
    Like HCM said, largely no. There are some minutia we could discuss but it’s largely just that.

    Also, like mentioned, dropping in another trigger that suits your preference shouldn’t affect any “trigger work” you’ve had done on the pistol beforehand.




    You can also simply use a smaller punch that fits the width of the 1/2 hole (radius) and tap the pin free. That’s this armorer’s solution. 🤣
    Thanks, I just prefer the feel of the oem p229 trigger. The p228 is less width and breaks farther back.

  3. #213
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by breakingtime91 View Post
    Thanks, I just prefer the feel of the oem p229 trigger. The p228 is less width and breaks farther back.
    I'd be interested in some measurements, if you mean "width" as in side-to-side.

    This post https://www.sigtalk.com/threads/mod-.../#post-2704169 is by one of the Sig minutia SMEs over on that forum, and seems to imply the only differences should be short-reach vs. standard-reach. I have seen both MIM and machined standard-reach triggers for new P220s, but the shapes (widths in particular) are as near as matters the same.

    If it's the short-reach you don't like, I don't like those either. But they are interchangeable. I've had no trouble finding someone to trade with when I end up with the wrong one in a new gun.
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    Not another dime.

  4. #214
    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    I'd be interested in some measurements, if you mean "width" as in side-to-side.

    This post https://www.sigtalk.com/threads/mod-.../#post-2704169 is by one of the Sig minutia SMEs over on that forum, and seems to imply the only differences should be short-reach vs. standard-reach. I have seen both MIM and machined standard-reach triggers for new P220s, but the shapes (widths in particular) are as near as matters the same.

    If it's the short-reach you don't like, I don't like those either. But they are interchangeable. I've had no trouble finding someone to trade with when I end up with the wrong one in a new gun.
    I'll take a look in a few minutes and report back. Maybe it is the factory short trigger.. that would make sense and it just feels thinner and less wide. Thanks for pointing that out. I don't mind the srt but it really doesn't do too much for me

  5. #215
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    There is sometimes confusion betweeen the SRT (Short Reset Trigger), which is internal parts, and the short reach trigger, which is just the trigger part that you actually press. They are completely independent and separate of each other. You can have an SRT with a short or standard reach trigger, or the standard reset with a short or standard reach trigger.

    One subtlety that's not often mentioned is that the SRT sear has a little more creep in SA in order to maintain safety than the standard-reset sear. It's not really objectionable, but is noticeable if someone points it out so you know about it and you go A-to-B check it. At speed, it doesn't make much difference in feel. I'm not enough of a high-speed shooter to evaluate whether it makes a meaningful difference on targets.
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    Not another dime.

  6. #216
    Site Supporter taadski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by breakingtime91 View Post
    Thanks, I just prefer the feel of the oem p229 trigger. The p228 is less width and breaks farther back.
    There are some older Sig models (West German 220s, 239s, 225/P6s for example) that have an 8mm wide trigger. I don’t believe the 228 (even very early iterations) ever have. The 228 triggers I’m familiar with are all 10mm wide versions and are directly compatible with the 229.

    If you’re talking about the “short reach” triggers, yeah, I agree with you. They break much too far to the rear for my liking also. But you can drop-in replace them with a standard one for peanuts.

  7. #217
    Quote Originally Posted by taadski View Post
    There are some older Sig models (West German 220s, 239s, 225/P6s for example) that have an 8mm wide trigger. I don’t believe the 228 (even very early iterations) ever have. The 228 triggers I’m familiar with are all 10mm wide versions and are directly compatible with the 229.

    If you’re talking about the “short reach” triggers, yeah, I agree with you. They break much too far to the rear for my liking also. But you can drop-in replace them with a standard one for peanuts.
    It looks like mine is the older sig p220 or p245 trigger from that link. Not a thing trigger but feels enough different from the newer sig p229 trigger that I don't enjoy it

  8. #218
    Quote Originally Posted by Trukinjp13 View Post
    Do they make optics ready slides for the older framed guns like we have?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The P226 rail dimensions may have changed on the 1988 model. Probably the same since then.

  9. #219
    Member kjr_29's Avatar
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    Reviving the 229 thread which I enjoyed reading.

    I picked up a DAK in .40 yesterday, been looking for a model to run DAO since I’m deep into Revolvers now and fully invested in the DB ‘assessment speed’ thought process. (I have two DAO nickel plated hammers should I ever find a DA/SA to throw them in). The DAK is plenty workable given my last two years with Revolvers and a brief sting with V1 LEM. I’ll stick with it as is and see how I like it. I don’t sense much of the pull weight difference.

    Anyway, my question is really about how to determine a manufacture date? It didn’t come with the original box. Frame is Sig Sauer Inc, Exeter, NH. Short, eternal extractor. Railed frame, but no front cocking serrations. All three mags are mecgar. AJU serial number prefix. No police markings.

    Going to throw some Hogue grips and green fiber/blacked out rear sights, get another JMCK and call it good for a bit.


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  10. #220
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    I swapped out the short reach trigger for the thicker standard trigger on my 229. If anyone wants the thin one, let me know.

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