I’m pretty sure Sig Armorer uses Vulcan Gun Works for milling. I have two guns milled by Vulcan and zero complaints.
Sounds like a cool project.
The main thing that led me away from SIGs is the location of their slide catch. Several years later I’ve naturally migrated to a strong thumb up grip that probably would negated the problem. C’est la vie.
David S.
All good ideas. I have never been of forty. How much is refinishing from ccr?Originally Posted by KevH
Do you have a nice 40 S&W? I ask since 40 S&W seems to still be available more frequently that 9mm at the moment and that gun was designed to shoot it and does so quite well.
If it were my gun I would:
- Drop in a new SIG factory 40 S&W barrel (they're available fairly inexpensive and quality is very very good and your 357 gun is meant to do that swap from the factory)
- Install Factory SRT (inexpensive, easy to do yourself and the new sear will smooth things up quite a bit)
- Install a Grayguns adjustable trigger (not needed, but the adjustment they provide is nice)
- Ship out the slide to have it milled for an RMR (if that's what you want) and don't have them refinish it
- Leave the factory grips alone (or replace if they're super dinged up) or go E2 if you have small hands
- Have it refinished by CCR (Cummings Custom Refinishing). CCR's finishes are excellent and they're really the best at doing SIG's anodized frames. Have the black parts done in "House Black."
It would be fairly inexpensive if you hunt around and source the barrel and SRT kit for cheap (I bet you could find both for under $150).
But that's just me
Some of the older P series Sigs don’t even need action work IMO.
If I could design my perfect Sig 220/226/229, it would have triggers and reliability from their peak days, have a spurless/bobbed hammer, and combine the decocker and slide release levers into one.
Old school Sigs are cool guns if nothing else.
CCR Pricing
David S.
I'm a fan of the Hogue G10 checkered grips on classic Sigs.
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Not another dime.
Some caveats:Do you have a nice 40 S&W? I ask since 40 S&W seems to still be available more frequently that 9mm at the moment and that gun was designed to shoot it and does so quite well.
If it were my gun I would:
- Drop in a new SIG factory 40 S&W barrel (they're available fairly inexpensive and quality is very very good and your 357 gun is meant to do that swap from the factory)
- Install Factory SRT (inexpensive, easy to do yourself and the new sear will smooth things up quite a bit)
- Install a Grayguns adjustable trigger (not needed, but the adjustment they provide is nice)
- Ship out the slide to have it milled for an RMR (if that's what you want) and don't have them refinish it
- Leave the factory grips alone (or replace if they're super dinged up) or go E2 if you have small hands
- Have it refinished by CCR (Cummings Custom Refinishing). CCR's finishes are excellent and they're really the best at doing SIG's anodized frames. Have the black parts done in "House Black."
It would be fairly inexpensive if you hunt around and source the barrel and SRT kit for cheap (I bet you could find both for under $150).
But that's just me
- 40 S&W uses different sights on Sigs (229s at least) than 357Sig; you may need to adjust the front sight if it doesn't shoot to POA (and it probably won't...)
- Factory SRT can be hit or miss with regards to introducing mass amounts of creep into the system...I've installed what, 3 SRT kits, and 2 of them were creepier than you'd believe, even in different guns (including the gun that had an SRT installed that didn't creep...it was all in the parts, not the frame)
- The E2 grip not only changes the grip angle, but grip width and position relative to the trigger...great if you have medium-small hands; not great if you have large+ hands. Personally I find the E2 grip is nearly unusable; it's almost impossible for me to go DA with it without me pushing it down, badlySwitching back to factory stock grips, the problem goes away...that's with both the "long" and "short reach" triggers installed.
Source; I have a DAK 357 that I converted to DA/SA, have a .40 barrel for, yadda yadda. While I'm sure the 3rd point could be trained out at some level...especially these days, I don't have the ammo for that, and it's not really something that manifested for me until after a magazine or so :/
For sure - keeps most of the classic shape and profile, doesn't have the huge thumb hump on the left grip panel, and the checkering is nice and grippy.
They run deals all the time too. They're also fairly fast. I've had quite a bit of stuff refinished by them over the years and I've always been impressed by their product and their service.
Regarding SRT:
I've installed a few of them over the years some on my guns and some on co-workers. It's an easy install and in almost every case it provides a nice smooth trigger pull and short reset. I haven't had any issues with creep, but I don't doubt that it may be an issue.
The Grayguns adjustable trigger allows for adjustment of pre-travel and overtravel and solves both of those problems.
Regarding grips:
On P220 and P226's I strongly prefer Nill grips (the Roco knock-offs on the P220 weren't bad either) to everything else. They feel amazing and help mitigate felt recoil really well for me.
I've had Nills, Hogue G10, the E2 and various other grips on the P228 and P229 I've always returned to factory grips (with 3M grip tape on the frontstrap).
They're actually designed really well and the hump on the right side helps keep me from inadvertently holding down the slide stop.
this is a 2006-2007 sig.. what 9mm magazine and 9mm recoil spring will I need? Note: from the factory it is a 357 sig p229, so Slide, frame etc were designed with that in mind.
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