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Thread: Thread locker?

  1. #1

    Thread locker?

    I'm not sure if this is the right place for this thread but didn't know where else to put it.

    Is there a preference for a thread locker? Specifically my application would be optics to mounts, mounts to rails, flashlights to rails, etc. Is there a general purpose one or does each require a certain product?

  2. #2
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    I'm in no way an expert but have always used and had good luck with locktite blue for the general purposes you've listed.

  3. #3
    Site Supporter HeavyDuty's Avatar
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    I’ve been using the Loctite blue “chapstick” for a while with good results - I first read about it here.
    Ken

    BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
    revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”

  4. #4
    Sorry/not sorry for the thread drift. When I saw the thread title, my first thought was that either LL or BBI are the ones who usually lock a thread.

  5. #5
    FWIW:

    1)Loctite 248-stick or have seen it described as “in gel form”. @SoCalDep is using this with success over different platforms, plates and sights.
    2)”Vibra-Tite VC-3” is included with C&H plates with a detailed “paper” on installation on their website. I have mounted a few sights using it, and with the exception of my first install, has worked for me. Some here are against it, but so far so good. Several thousand rounds over two years on an ACRO and a Holosun 509T.
    3)I know of one instructor who has used clear nail polish on several installs. He reports no issues over thousands of rounds.
    @JCN had a procedure where he also had put a substance under the plate for cushioning (?)
    I believe it’s critical to degrease the screws/threads. A torque wrench is mandatory; we are using the FixIt sticks with good results. Strong recommendation to let the Loctite sit for 24 hours.
    EVERYTHING should be checked periodically, particularly after a shooting session. I don’t think a weekly check excessive
    for me personally, but it may be too much to ask of “non-dedicated” personnel.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Rangemaster View Post
    @JCN had a procedure where he also had put a substance under the plate for cushioning (?)
    I believe it’s critical to degrease the screws/threads. A torque wrench is mandatory; we are using the FixIt sticks with good results. Strong recommendation to let the Loctite sit for 24 hours.
    EVERYTHING should be checked periodically, particularly after a shooting session. I don’t think a weekly check excessive
    for me personally, but it may be too much to ask of “non-dedicated” personnel.
    Thanks for the heads up.

    I use E6000 (available at Walmart or Amazon) for $7 or so.

    I use a small dollop between slide and plate and squeeze to press fit so the screws don’t have to take the shear load.

    It’s nice because it stays a little rubbery. It’s also easy to rub off later without residue like rubber cement.

    Never had an issue since through tens of thousands of rounds.

    I like it for plates because you can’t tell if they’re loose under an optic and I wanted a reversible option.

    These days I use a very small amount for sealed bottom optics (SRO, Holosun 507) too.

  7. #7
    @JCN:
    Is there a specific kind of E6000. A quick search showed several “formulations”, e.g., “Industrial”, “Fabric”, etc.
    Thanks in advance

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Rangemaster View Post
    @JCN:
    Is there a specific kind of E6000. A quick search showed several “formulations”, e.g., “Industrial”, “Fabric”, etc.
    Thanks in advance
    (Confirmed) I use the “industrial.”

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    $3 on Amazon

    https://amazon.com/E6000-231020-Adhe...x=e6000&sr=8-6

    Even though it uses buzzwords like “industrial” and “permanent” it’s really not when it comes to metal. It’s easily removable.

    @Les Pepperoni maybe can give follow up feedback on how it’s working for his plate.
    Last edited by JCN; 08-02-2021 at 10:15 AM.

  9. #9
    Frequent DG Adventurer fatdog's Avatar
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    loctite blue

  10. #10
    Loctite 242 or 243 are your typical purpose threadlocker for this purpose (243 having more oil resistance and thus considered the "upgraded" version); 248 would be the stick version. Just being pedantic here, but "Blue" Loctite in it of itself is a whole line of products by Henkel, so while 242 and 243 are the most common of them, it's better (IMO) to actually reference the number, too.

    For really small fasteners or set screws, you will probably want 222 (which is the most popular Purple Loctite).

    I'm personally lazy and just use Rocksett for everything, as it also holds up to high temperatures much better than most of the common Loctite formulations, including 263 (the typical Red Loctite), but can be easily removed with just hand tools and the residue can be removed with just some boiling water.

    I, too, never really had great luck with Vibratite VC-3.

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