Advice on disassembly of 1911 frame- Dan Wesson Specialist

[Rmiked]

I have disassembled my slide to clean the extractor channel and inspect the firing pin. And I can field strip my 1911 in my sleep. But I have not yet disassembled the bottom end (frame). Looking a the Wilson Combat 1911 disassembly video is very helpful. My Specialist has an ambi-safety and that part looks a little tricky. I’m not sure what keeps the 2 halves joined. Seems as if it may just be interference fit? If I wanted to just inspect the sear and disconnector I’m assuming you can’t remove the pin that they rotate on without removing the ambi-safety? Any advice would be appreciated. What is the most likely thing to go wrong? Also it seems if most smiths wind up tapping on the safety lever to help loosen it. Is it easy to scratch the finish if prying up with a sharp tool like a flat (thin) screwdriver? The WC guy used a thin piece of paper to protect the finish. Anyway, for anyone that learned something the hard way, I would appreciate your knowledge. The mainspring housing, spring cap and magwell looks straightforward. Thanks in advance.

[SecondsCount]

I am not sure which safety DW uses but the typical ambi is held in by the right grip. Remove the grip and you should be able to pull the right lever off by hand. If it is stubborn, come in from the top with a small screwdriver. Put a small amount of tape on the screwdriver tip if you are worried about scratches.

[Rmiked]

My right grip doesn’t touch or cover thumb safety. I called DW and asked about this level of disassembly. They said it is very tight and they advise against it if nothing is wrong with pistol. I was just wanting to get intimately familiar with it. It functions great. The owner’s manual describes field stripping for cleaning AND remove of firing pin and extractor from slide. DW said it is not intended for the Owner to disassemble further as you can damage pistol. I can believe that. They said it’s friction fit with one shaft inserting in another. I’m guessing the way it is retained must be a slot in the frame that allows a tab to come out when the thumb safety is between ON and OFF. Since it is never in the “in between “ position, it never falls out? That was something I hoped to see first hand. I have completely disassembled my Beretta 92A1 including the sear and I am wanting to get that level familiarity with my 1911. I have learned the 1911 seems to be very detailed the way parts fit together compared to the Beretta 92. Since my 1911 runs great and I assume the area housing the sear and disconnector is shielded from firing debris/powder etc, this area rarely needs cleaning? There again, without disassembly and being new to 1911s I am not sure. Given DW advises against it, they must think the sear/disconnector area stays fairly clean.

[SW CQB 45]

you can go quite a while (unless you live in a dusty/sandy environment) without a full lower breakdown.

wipe/clean the frame rails and magwell area good.

I wonder if they are EGW....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXncCPYmxUA

or maybe Rob can help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdx3lamszZw

[Caballoflaco]

The 1911 is no more complex or “detailed” in the way the parts fit together than your Beretta is. The difference is that they’re no longer made to a standard set of blue prints by all of the companies that make them or parts for them. Watch some YouTube videos and take the thing all the way apart if you want to. Go slow, use tools that are softer than you’re gun and it’s highly unlikely you’ll break anything.

Just remember that like with all firearms excessive detailed disassembly will eventually wear the gun out faster.

[M2CattleCo]

Ambi safeties aside, a 1911 frame is about as easy as a Glock to detail strip once you get the hang of it.

If you watch some videos I think you’ll be fine.

[Rmiked]

I get it now regarding the parts. The non-standard parts results in fitting many of them, minimal drop-in. I think I’ll hold off for now as I only have 400 rounds thru the pistol. At least you can replace the mainspring (if needed) without removing the ambi-safety. Doesn’t look like you can see the sear spring where it touches the sear without removing the grip safety and hammer which requires removing the ambi-safety to get the pins out. My pistol has a tight fit between the safety levers and frame. I’m guessing lightly tapping the levers and wiggling them will provide enough clearance to insert a thin tool and prying them out. But I’ll wait until I get more rounds through the pistol. Rob’s video implied most newer pistols ambi-safeties use a rimmed pin on the right side to retain the right side lever with interfacing slots. Not knowing how the pins are retained could result in damage if you apply too much force. Getting the levers in the 50-75% up position seems very important . I’m guessing wiggling them and feeling for the interference to go away is just something you have to do first.

[farscott]

I have never needed to replace a mainspring in a 1911 due to wear or PM; I have replaced mainsprings due to balancing how the pistol cycles.

[Rmiked]

Does anyone know if the newer DWs have the protruding pin on right side with the flanged (rim) edge on it like Rob suggested? If it does it won’t come out until the wide part of slot lines up with rim. There is a good WC video of disassembly of 1911 with ambi-safety. That pistol did not have the protruding pin with rim. It was just a shaft inside of a shaft. It had a tight fit and the guy used a business card slid under right side and with tapping lever lightly with nylon hammer was able to work it out using a thin sharpened screwdriver and business card without scratching finish. Seems like you kneed to know what’s underneath before you start.

[SW CQB 45]

based on the ambi side lever not captured by the grip....

the non ejection side must come out first.