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Thread: Taking a chance on a Stoeger M3000 Freedom Series Defense Shotgun - opinions?

  1. #61
    4given -

    There are several positions that I would check beyond hip:

    1) Stock tucked underarm with the firing hand as far back as possible - essentially with your thumb touching your chest. Try it at different angles. This is one way to 'shorten' the shotgun in tight quarters and also as an emergency close range mount;

    2) Turn sideways and position the shotgun across your chest, muzzle down range, in this position the shotgun stock should be unsupported with your firing hand holding the stock by the pistol grip and the stock running outside your forearm. This replicates shortening the shotgun to clear a tight corner AND firing across the body from a supine position. For a right handed shooter the ejection port should be up/away from the chest, but all corners aren't right handed and there is no guarantee that you will end up supine positioned for a strong-side shot so do it support side also. A lefty needs to know how much 'roll' to give the shotgun in order to ensure ejection.

    3) Do the above with the toe of the stock mounted off the shoulder and on the upper arm, above the bicep in the armpit (poor description, I know).

    Here is what I know about how to hold shotguns:

    I was taught the push the forearm forward while pulling the stock into the shoulder at a Smith & Wesson police shotgun instructor course in the mid-80's. Wow! the light switched on, give me them slugs and buck. The S&W guys said they had been taught by John Satterwhite. We immediately adopted the push-pull into our shotgun training.

    Subsequently, I attended a shotgun instructor course at the H&K ITD, and was introduced to the HK/Benelli M1 Super 90. I found that push-pull worked with the M1. At the time there was a myth that you didn't want to mount a sidesaddle on an M1 because it wouldn't run with light or reduced loads. Couldn't prove it by me, I don't recall ever malfunctioning an M1 or Rem 11-87 (gas operated but with a rep for not reliably cycling light rounds with short barrel).

    Bottom line is firmly holding the shotgun using push-pull limits the shotgun's movement enough to allow reliable function as well as reduce recoil.
    Adding nothing to the conversation since 2015....

  2. #62
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Lehr View Post
    4given -

    There are several positions that I would check beyond hip:

    1) Stock tucked underarm with the firing hand as far back as possible - essentially with your thumb touching your chest. Try it at different angles. This is one way to 'shorten' the shotgun in tight quarters and also as an emergency close range mount;

    2) Turn sideways and position the shotgun across your chest, muzzle down range, in this position the shotgun stock should be unsupported with your firing hand holding the stock by the pistol grip and the stock running outside your forearm. This replicates shortening the shotgun to clear a tight corner AND firing across the body from a supine position. For a right handed shooter the ejection port should be up/away from the chest, but all corners aren't right handed and there is no guarantee that you will end up supine positioned for a strong-side shot so do it support side also. A lefty needs to know how much 'roll' to give the shotgun in order to ensure ejection.

    3) Do the above with the toe of the stock mounted off the shoulder and on the upper arm, above the bicep in the armpit (poor description, I know).

    Here is what I know about how to hold shotguns:

    I was taught the push the forearm forward while pulling the stock into the shoulder at a Smith & Wesson police shotgun instructor course in the mid-80's. Wow! the light switched on, give me them slugs and buck. The S&W guys said they had been taught by John Satterwhite. We immediately adopted the push-pull into our shotgun training.

    Subsequently, I attended a shotgun instructor course at the H&K ITD, and was introduced to the HK/Benelli M1 Super 90. I found that push-pull worked with the M1. At the time there was a myth that you didn't want to mount a sidesaddle on an M1 because it wouldn't run with light or reduced loads. Couldn't prove it by me, I don't recall ever malfunctioning an M1 or Rem 11-87 (gas operated but with a rep for not reliably cycling light rounds with short barrel).

    Bottom line is firmly holding the shotgun using push-pull limits the shotgun's movement enough to allow reliable function as well as reduce recoil.
    Thank you so much for the sage advice. I'll give those positions a try with target loads and see what happens. Also thanks for explaining the push - pull method. I'm looking forward to trying it!

  3. #63
    Quote Originally Posted by 4given View Post
    The innertube strips are working really well so far. The mount did not budge at all.

    I may try the lighter recoil spring if they ever get them back in stock and fire a bunch of light target loads from the hip and see if they cycle properly. I guess that would tell the story.
    Did you ever try the lighter recoil spring? I was having problems with my Stoeger m3000 Freedom cycling and so I got the Moa Precision a heavy bolt system with the lighter coil spring and I'm able to cycle lighter loads now. So that's good news

    However, my only concern is if I run more powerful loads with the heavy bolt system and lighter recoil spring will that damage my gun now eventually since the original stock recoil spring was so much tighter and could absorb more of the recoil

    I would appreciate anyone's thoughts on that. Of course, I may be overthinking this to but I want to be able to run lighter loads and heavier loads at the same time without having to change the recoil spring out every other week. I don't want to damage my gun either if I'm running heavier loads with the lighter recoil spring.

  4. #64
    Quote Originally Posted by SiperTed View Post
    Did you ever try the lighter recoil spring? I was having problems with my Stoeger m3000 Freedom cycling and so I got the Moa Precision a heavy bolt system with the lighter coil spring and I'm able to cycle lighter loads now. So that's good news

    However, my only concern is if I run more powerful loads with the heavy bolt system and lighter recoil spring will that damage my gun now eventually since the original stock recoil spring was so much tighter and could absorb more of the recoil

    I would appreciate anyone's thoughts on that. Of course, I may be overthinking this to but I want to be able to run lighter loads and heavier loads at the same time without having to change the recoil spring out every other week. I don't want to damage my gun either if I'm running heavier loads with the lighter recoil spring.
    I have not tried the lighter springs. They have been out of stock so I have just been waiting for them to get some more.

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