New Glock lubrication (what the factory is doing)

[10mmfanboy]

I find it hard to believe over lubrication will hurt much, other than packing grease, that stuff gunks up everything. Only two problem glocks I had were those lipsey cerekote fde pistols. Both gen 4, one a g19 and one a g26. I couldn't even get through a magazine without malf city, to the point I field stripped them and cleaned and lubed them and started again, still no luck. After about a hundred rounds through each they finally worked as they should. My guess is the cerekote was either too thick, or places it shouldn't have been. Coincidently both rust like heck now too that most of the finish wore off. I thought glocks weren't supposed to rust even being in salt water for a decade and all that stuff...? they rust almost as bad as my p365 now. I wish they didn't have to stop the old frying pan finish they used to have on gen 3, I don't remember any rust issues with that finish.

[SecondHandSmoke]

Profanity warning.

This video has a portion where he mentions the anti-seize that may be of interest to some people.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rduVAVrQCM

[Oldherkpilot]

I was under the impression that you're not supposed to shoot the guns with what they're shipped in, regardless. It's more of a packing oil/preservative, as opposed to gun lube.

Along the lines of cosmoline. I know that was pretty true years ago but not sure if it still holds nowadays. I still strip, clean and lube the new hires prior to heating them up.

[newt]

I had one recently where whatever goo they put in there glued the extractor to the slide. I mean that literally. That thing was a SOLID two piece block. Couldn't chamber a round. I had to use some serious elbow grease to knock that sucker out of there and clean that shit out.

[High Cross]

The lore I heard when I bought my first Glock in the fall of 1991 was that it took 500ish rounds to shoot off the copper lube.

My present carry G3 G34 was purchased used with some of the copper lube in the very rear corners of the slide. The gun was represented to me to have been sold by the store to someone who decided they wanted a G19 instead. Ergo, less than 500 rds thru it. FWIW.

When I bought my first brand new glock 19 at 21 years of age in 2004, I cleaned off that gold lube immediately and stupidly. I had no idea it was to help break the gun in. 17 years later and thousands or rounds, IDPA and tactical classes it has had one malfunction. A stove pipe while weakhand shooting. When i bought new glocks in 2016 I was surprised to see they no long used the gold lube.

[Leroy Suggs]

I have bought three new Glocks in the last year. A 43 and two 26s'.
All had oil in the striker channel and everywhere else.

All made in USA.

I detail strip frame and slide on all new Glocks,clean,oil, and dry where needed. Then I shoot them.

[JonInWA]

At a bare minimum, with a new gun I always field-strip, clean, lubricate prior to any shooting. That provides a component and proper assembly check, as well as removing preservative and replacing as appropriate with proper lube.

For Glocks, I prefer to detail disassemble, for all the reasons above, AND to properly lubricate the triggerbar/connector interfacing surfaces. I'll leave the Glock copper lube in place.

On my compact Glocks, I prefer using TW25B for areas where there's component metal-on-metal reciprocation, and a lighter liquid lube for other areas as appropriate On full-size Glocks, I'll use Lucas Ren "N" Tacky #2 grease on the metal-on-metal reciprocation areas.

I usually leave my Glock magazines alone, but on most other platforms, I'll also disassemble the magazine, remove any preservative or cutting oil residues, and then apply a coating of Dri-Slide, a molybednum disulfide dry film lubricant/anticorrosive to the inner tube, spring, follower and inner floorplate and/or innner basepad. Exteriors get a light film of the lighter lube.

Best, Jon