Replacing an 870 wooden forend- what am I doing wrong?

[gato naranja]

Unfortunately out of stock at the moment.

Yeah, I'm betting overtightened at the factory and probably rusted too. This is the first time ive actually taken this gun down this far before, so there are some other areas that are gonna need some TLC too. I was just concerned that maybe there was a period that Remington was gluing their forends onto the tube or something.

I once made a forend wrench out of scrap aluminum by turning a cylinder in the vicinity of 1-1/4" long and 1" diameter that that just slipped inside the nut/tube as a pilot/guide, then I made a flat rectangular piece roughly - and I am relying on memory - 3/16" thick x 1" wide x 3" long that just fit in the notches and stuck out the back far enough to clear everything and clamp a BIG monkey wrench onto. Then I cut a slot about 1/4" deep across one end of the cylinder, the slot being just wide enough for a press fit with that flat piece.

The flat piece was then lined up to be even on both sides of the cylinder and hammered into the slot. Yeah, it took me about an hour of screwing around on a tabletop lathe/mill... but it got the job done. IIRC, if I was a more careful critter, I could have dispensed with the cylindrical pilot altogether.

(After a short search...)

Oh, hell... I knew it was still around here somewhere. Here it is, and the measurements are not exact, but in the ballpark.

Attachment 72906

[BobM]

Set a large dowel or screwdriver handle on a bench. Put the forearm upside down on top of that. Press down on the forearm to cause the wood to spread a little while you unscrew the forearm nut. I could try to post a couple pics when I get to the office tomorrow if it’ll help.

[MandoWookie]

Set a large dowel or screwdriver handle on a bench. Put the forearm upside down on top of that. Press down on the forearm to cause the wood to spread a little while you unscrew the forearm nut. I could try to post a couple pics when I get to the office tomorrow if it’ll help.

I think I get what you are saying. I will try that next go at it.

[Guerrero]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R74M...dbquEwfJFupUYL

I can't seem to find the specific fore-end part, but it might be somewhere in this playlist

[Chuck Whitlock]

Some of those magazine "nuts" are cinched down "tighter than Dick's hatband" (bonus points for knowing what book that is from) or rusted in place.

The heaviest-duty yet simple to use forend wrench I have personally tried is the one from Brownells:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...h-prod968.aspx

It is overkill for most removals/installs, but good for the tough removals.

https://www.amazon.com/UTG-Deluxe-Un...s%2C191&sr=8-1

I ordered the above too from Amazon to install a Hogue overmolded forend on my dad's Mossy 500. His wasn't stuck or anything, but it worked as well as a Brownells tool I'd had at previous agency. $11 ain't bad, and I like that it can be used while on the magazine tube, with the action bars supported in the receiver. (more for the install rather than the removal)

[DrkBlue]

Not too constructive, but have two 870 experiences.

#1 was marginal force with Magpul tool was sufficient. Kudos to Magpul for what they developed.

#2 no such luck, so tried oil and a bit of heat. No go. Then used the vise and some taps around the ring with a plastic rod/hammer (to break up any rust and migrate oil). That worked.

Good luck.

[Brian T]

I like to use one of those Bic fireplace lights, and put the flame inside the tube, under the locking ring. You might see some smoke, that's oil and shit mix burning off.

Then again, the previous owner or ace assembly guy may have cross threaded the damned thing.

[gato naranja]

a flat rectangular piece roughly - and I am relying on memory - 3/16" thick x 1" wide x 3" long

FTA that the width turned out to be more like 1.250". My bad.

I did find another tool for 870 magazine tube nut removal that is just a piece of piece of steel about .175" thick, 1.250" wide and 2.500" long. A test shows it will work but it has to be aligned with a bit of care to prevent potentially scarring a forend with the crisp edge. An 18" adjustable wrench snugged down at the end gives mondo leverage. The thing is unmarked and I have no memory of where it came from, but it was in yet another small box o' 870 stuff left over from my original search for the holy grail of HD/SD/SHTF/utility/beater shotguns that would eat any ammo on earth.

(Talk about a cat chasing a chimera...)

An ex-mil, aviation tech relative has gotten me to using a couple drops of Kroil at fastener interfaces and tapping things with a brass hammer or punch to help it penetrate. It isn't a 100% method, but it helps enough for me to keep a can of it around now. Kind of pricy for the quantity, but you don't need much.

[MandoWookie]

Well, I ordered the UTG tool, because I've managed to mangle the Magpul one. WD40, Kroil, and a big ass wrench and the damn ring remains unmoved.

[gato naranja]

Well, I ordered the UTG tool, because I've managed to mangle the Magpul one. WD40, Kroil, and a big ass wrench and the damn ring remains unmoved.

If you want to just keep the current wood forend and the forend tube assembly assembly intact, I do have an extra forend tube assembly if you can put up with a two-tone look, as it is an electroless nickeled one for a Marine Magnum.

I do not have an extra forend tube nut though, so you'd have to source one of those.