Regarding your second point, I don’t think they will. In my Rossi 92 clone, I’ve found that .38 SPLs with an OAL less than approximately 1.5” don’t cycle well at all. I suspect that .38 SC would be equally problematic, but would be happy to hear otherwise.Originally Posted by Wyoming Shooter
I finally got to the range!
I just loaded 50 rounds as a test. The picture is a 50 round group.
I did a few with WOLF magnum rifle primers, and all of the ones with the Wolf SRM took two hits to send them down range. All of the rest went with no issue. I really need to invest in a chronograph.
Those Nills as comfortable as I think? I'm gonna get a set for my 329, the closed back with slight thumb rest..I finally got to the range!
I just loaded 50 rounds as a test. The picture is a 50 round group.
I did a few with WOLF magnum rifle primers, and all of the ones with the Wolf SRM took two hits to send them down range. All of the rest went with no issue. I really need to invest in a chronograph.
Following along and really tempted to get dies and make up some 135gr gold dot short mags..
I wish they were Nills. These are Hogues. They are pretty nice, but I have only shot them with this load, so I don't know how they will do with Magnums. I bought this gun in 2005 or so and the only other time I have shot it was with wax bullets in the back yard.
In terms of creating a 'rimmed 9mm' for .357 pocket pistols, do you think the .38 Short Colt would be able to work with .355 9x19 projectiles?
I ask as I've got 5000+ 124gr Gold Dots. And in general theres a wider variety of 9x19 projectiles optimized for lower velocity performance than the typical 125gr .357 projectile.
If 9mm projectiles can work, then thats going to push me to get into .38 Short Colt.
Given that the grip in question is a Hogue, it's likely very, very close to the Hogue no finger groove grip, which is essentially identical in side profile to the S&W X frame grip, minus the finger grooves.
I have two X frame grips for sale, new in package. They can be easily stretched onto any round butt N frame.
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If you play with different dies, you can probably get a load to go bang and exit the barrel. The smaller bullets will likely have significantly inferior accuracy and lower velocity. Certainly, if you used non-jacketed, you'd expect some serious leading.
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@Outpost75 literally wrote one of the books about this. Hopefully he weighs in.
If not, one of the key aspects of revolver accuracy is bullet fit in the cylinder throats. Otherwise the bullets yaw. Hopefully your throats are exactly .357-.358 and not bigger. Regardless, a .355 projectile will likely not give you great results. But they’ll probably be acceptable. As in instead of 2 inches at 25 yards, you’ll get maybe 4 inches.
Several bullet manufacturers make 125 gr .38 special spec bullets that expand at lower velocities. I’ve shot a bunch of the Remington jhp version.
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Just depends on what your barrel actually measures. At one time I had 7 .357s and they ran from .355 to .359+, so they can vary a lot. Two at .355 were 2.5" Smith 686s.
If they were from the electro-chemically machined rifling era, that doesn't surprise me. The depth of the grooves is entirely process dependent, which puts it in the variability maelstrom of S&W QC management. It's not even something that the tooling folks can control e.g. with a properly spec'ed button. I've seen some goofy electro-chemically machined rifling in S&W products.
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