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Thread: Screw stuck in kydex, any hacks for this?

  1. #1
    Site Supporter rob_s's Avatar
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    Screw stuck in kydex, any hacks for this?

    Been a long time since I did any holster wrenching. I can’t seem to get these screw out, the nuts just keep spinning, and I can’t figure a way to get them to stay put so I can turn the screw without turning the nut.

    Particularly the ones down inside the body of the holster.

    Anyone have any tricks here? The one screw I did get loose doesn’t appear to have any locktite or similar on it so I don’t think that’s the issue. A little reluctant to use heat either way sine the holster itself is plastic…

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  2. #2
    Site Supporter ST911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    Been a long time since I did any holster wrenching. I can’t seem to get these screw out, the nuts just keep spinning, and I can’t figure a way to get them to stay put so I can turn the screw without turning the nut.

    Particularly the ones down inside the body of the holster.

    Anyone have any tricks here? The one screw I did get loose doesn’t appear to have any locktite or similar on it so I don’t think that’s the issue. A little reluctant to use heat either way sine the holster itself is plastic…
    Dremel a slot for a flathead. You could also just dimple it enough to set a punch in to hold while you loosen.
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    Clean surfaces with alcohol.
    Press duct tape to the back.
    Hold pressure on the tape while you unscrew from the front.

  4. #4
    Site Supporter rob_s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ST911 View Post
    Dremel a slot for a flathead. You could also just dimple it enough to set a punch in to hold while you loosen.
    That’s what I’m hoping to avoid. Plus it doesn’t get me the ones burried in the holster body.

    Quote Originally Posted by JCN View Post
    Clean surfaces with alcohol.
    Press duct tape to the back.
    Hold pressure on the tape while you unscrew from the front.
    That got the last two out of the belt loop end, and loosened one of the three inside the holster!

    Making progress!
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  5. #5
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    Cool

    I have done both techniques above successfully.

    My last go round with the issue when I was disassembling a knife was the impetus from buying an a Felo brand driver set and some Wiha individual Tx drivers. Dremeling the slot on a fastener (that you can get to ) and that you are going to replace anyway is a better long term solution.

    It is my hope that I will eliminate/reduce "buggered" hardware by using better tools. That is what I am telling myself anyway as my cost per use is slowing getting under 1.00.


    edited to add: the short side of a hex ball L shaped "Allen" wrench may get you where you need to go for those inside of the holster. Perhaps buying/modifying replacement hardware with a slot "cut" to minimize the issue going forward?
    Last edited by vcdgrips; 06-13-2021 at 11:16 AM.
    I am not your attorney. I am not giving legal advice. Any and all opinions expressed are personal and my own and are not those of any employer-past, present or future.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    That’s what I’m hoping to avoid. Plus it doesn’t get me the ones burried in the holster body.



    That got the last two out of the belt loop end, and loosened one of the three inside the holster!

    Making progress!
    If you’re still having difficulty can put some loctite just between the kydex and the nut (making sure to avoid the threads) then use the duct tape on top to really secure the nut in place while you address the screw.

    Use fast, abrupt torque on the screw.

  7. #7
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    I got several good ideas here:

    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....w-Tool-Options

    This is what I ended up with; a picture hanging hook that I unbent, and formed into a shape to "hold" the Chicago screw with a pliers. This afforded enough grip to resist the screw driver on the other end.

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  8. #8
    Site Supporter rob_s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    Thanks. I may just order one of these. I think this tip would fit inside the holster.
    https://www.daltechforce.com/product...al-torque-tool

    Gonna try the rubber glove trick from the other thread first.

    Funny that both my troubles and yours are BladeTech.
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  9. #9
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    Thanks. I may just order one of these. I think this tip would fit inside the holster.
    https://www.daltechforce.com/product...al-torque-tool

    Gonna try the rubber glove trick from the other thread first.

    Funny that both my troubles and yours are BladeTech.
    Yeah. I used to think that using some blue loc tite would be a good idea, you know, to hold the holster shell on the attachment. But not anymore. I just swapped my BT shell for my Glock 34 for a gamer range/competition light bearing shell from Tony this week. I was able to kinda sorta hold the barrel of the Chicago screw with a dime and a leatherman pliers attachment, then use an electric screwdriver to turn the screw, but man what a pita.

    Hope the tool works out, I'd be very interested in the results.

    I've often wondered why (cost, I guess) holster makers don't use something like a captive version of the Chicago screws, similar to this fitting that came on a Vedder holster I bought once (shown at upper left in this picture).

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  10. #10
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCN View Post
    If you’re still having difficulty can put some loctite just between the kydex and the nut (making sure to avoid the threads) then use the duct tape on top to really secure the nut in place while you address the screw.

    Use fast, abrupt torque on the screw.
    Careful with Loctite on thermoplastics. It can chemically attack them and cause them to crack.
    .
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    Not another dime.

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