My friend at the LNGS calls this work of art "Almost."

[Duelist]

My 4th or 5th gun was a 6" blued Python, and when I sold it about a year later, I didn't miss it a bit.
But the S&W 6" 28-2 I bought just before the Python, I missed that from the second I sold it. I wanted another one for a very long time.
I finally got another 6" 28-2, and then I bought 2 4" ones. I don't want a Python again, old or new, unless it's just stupid cheap, so I could flip it.

The Python I shot was nice, but not worth the $ to me vs. the 28-2 I have. Over 2.5x the money for not better performance? Yeah, I'll stick with the S&W.

[TiroFijo]

If there's only one, a worm/screw puller can be used to pull it out. This is a common gadget used with muzzle loaders. Fortunately, it's protruding from the muzzle so it wouldn't be difficult. Driving it back down the barrel would be the absolute hardest way to accomplish the task. If there's more than one bullet the barrel's done.

The method I use is to cut wooden rods in 1.5" pieces and drop them in the barrel from the rear (entering the forcing cone) with the barrel pointing down and clamped in a padded vice. When you get to the obstruction, use a sturdy piece of wood to bridge the frame, you hold it with your hand on one side and tap with a mallet on the other side, as close as possible to the frame. You may have to cut to size the last dowel for the bridge piece to fit.

In this case the bullet(s) are near the muzzle and it should be easy to tap them out.

It can also be done (very carefully) with a drill or a stuck bullet puller, but this tapping method is faster and you avoid potential damage to the rifling.

[Jim Watson]

I might do that with pieces of brass, but I have seen too many reports of stuck bullets now backed up by packed wood splinters to ever put a stick down a gun barrel.

And what of the allegedly tapered bore of the Python? Wouldn't that make it easier to drive the obstruction back from the muzzle?

[TiroFijo]

I might do that with pieces of brass, but I have seen too many reports of stuck bullets now backed up by packed wood splinters to ever put a stick down a gun barrel.

And what of the allegedly tapered bore of the Python? Wouldn't that make it easier to drive the obstruction back from the muzzle?

Brass would be perfect. But wood also works, I've done it. Use hard wood dowels, and they don't need to fit tight but be undersize by about 0.04+" from the rifling. And of course excersice caution, you want to tap the bullets out, not hammer them with full force.

If this does not work, move on to Plan B.

The "tapered bore", if it exists (myth?) should be gradual and only a couple thousands, doesn't make much difference over an inch or so of barrel.

[Ben34]

It really a nice piece of art .

[Jim Watson]

I know hardwood dowels have worked for many, but they have failed for enough that I use and recommend brass. Steel works, too, best taped or heat shrink covered to keep from peening the rifling.

[RevolverRob]

@Baldanders - Hook me up man. Pass on the memo to the owner, I'll give him 50 bucks and a six pack for his mucked up Python.

[Baldanders]

@Baldanders - Hook me up man. Pass on the memo to the owner, I'll give him 50 bucks and a six pack for his mucked up Python.

Well, looks like the lockwork is trashed too. 😑

I think my smith will probably hold onto it for parts.

They got a "filled" SP-101 the next day. Wonder if that guy's "kid found some reloads?"

Lots of facepalming at the LNGS this week.

I'm not a member of the Thin Blue Line club, but I'm starting to doubt the overall veracity of the original story here. Must be my teacher's instincts.

No repair video, but my boy has made a "PSA" on squibs. Not posted yet.


I was defending North Carolina vs Florida in a recent thread. Bad timing there.

My further feelings are going into a piece titled "WorldBook Willie and the Mysterious Case of the Revolver-Wrecking Ammo." It features a sleuth inspired by our @willie, and his loyal roadrunners. But that's a bit for the Romper Room. I'm about halfway through writing it.