Question about 1911 slide bump hitting disconnector ?

[Rmiked]

I am new to 1911s having recently acquired a Dan Wesson Specialist in 10mm. I am trying to learn all the aspects of the platform design and operation. It seems that when the slide is returning to battery (after firing and cocking the hammer) the leading edge of the bar that cocks the hammer, moves forward to strip a round from magazine and push it into the chamber. That same bar actuates the disconnector vertically with a milled groove in the rear of the bar. When I am charging my pistol from “slide lock” position (using the slide release) there is a “bump” when the leading edge of that bar hits the disconnector. The recoil spring provides enough force to overcome that resistance and function properly. I saw a Utube video where a gunsmith milled a tapered ramp on the leading edge of that bar on the center section that would hit the disconnector but left the outer edges 90 degrees to ensure proper round stripping. That looks like a nice modification. I am not going to do that to my 1911. But I noticed on the rear of that same bar , the firing pin stop that strikes the hammer, that edge has a radius on it to reduce the hammer resistance when cocking. If I was a gunsmith I think I would put a ramp on that edge that strikes the disconnector which would make the slide operation smoother and seems it could only make the chambering function more reliable. Any thoughts? And is there a name for “that bar” I keep referring to that cocks the hammer and actuates the disconnector? Thanks in advance

[rd62]

I am not a gunsmith and certainly not a 1911 expert.

I believe what you are referring to may be referred to as the disconnector rail. Breaking the edges and or polishing the head of the disconnector, firing pin stop radius, breach face edge, the disconnector relief in the slide and frame, etc can certainly smooth out the cycling of the slide, but material removal can also effect timing of unlocking, extraction, and ejection and should not be done haphazardly. For instance, flat bottom firing pin stops are a thing and serve a purpose with respect to the pistol operations above.

If you are having an issue or just want to smooth the action a conversation with a good smith or one of the more knowledgeable members here would be good.

[Rmiked]

Thanks for info. I am not having a problem but thought the gunsmith Utube was interesting. I’m sure there is a reason the leading edge of disconnector rail does not have a radius as a matter of routine. The top of disconnector is rounded to blunt the collision with disconnector rail. The idea of machining a ramp seemed like a nice idea. It would slightly delay the depressing of the disconnector but it seems to me that wouldn’t matter. But like you said, each can detail affect many things. The more I learn about the 1911 the more genius I see in the design. I am a John Browning fan. Thanks for putting a name on that part. Makes sense.

[Caballoflaco]

The term I’m most familiar with for that part is the disconnector rail.

Do a google search for marvel disconnector cut. You’ll see wide range of opinions on whether it’s necessary or not.

Also, check out and search the 1911addicts forum, while it ain’t what it was there is still a lot of knowledge there and most questions you could think to ask have probably been answered there too.

[David S.]

Do a google search for marvel disconnector cut. You’ll see wide range of opinions on whether it’s necessary or not. .

I did exactly that and came up with this video that seems to articulate it pretty well.

(I know nothing about 1911s, so I ASSume this video is accurate.)

[farscott]

A couple of comments:

1) Messing with the disconnect rail or the disconnect itself is a good way to reduce reliability. If you have to ask questions about how it works or why, leave it alone. Messing with the rail is a good way to need a new slide or a repair that requires welding. Messing with the disconnect can lead to a paperweight shaped like a pistol.

2) The radius on the firing pin stop is used to adjust how fast the gun cycles. More radius provides more leverage to cock the hammer, which helps rounds like 9x19, cycle the slide. Flat-bottomed stops with little or no radius can slow the slide as the slide impacts the hammer closer to the pivot point. For a round like 10mm, little or no radius is desirable as full-power 10mm is more energetic than .45 ACP. A bigger radius may look cool, but it may cause the slide to outrun the magazine springs. My 9x23 has a true flat-bottomed firing pin stop as the round moves the slide faster than a .45 ACP around which the pistol was designed.

Like everything else with a 1911, adjusting one thing can cause something else to not function as it should. The firing pin stop radius, the mainspring rate, and the magazine springs should be considered a system. Changing one may impact how well the others perform. Same with the recoil spring. I see a lot of 1911s that have way too much recoil spring, causing the muzzle to dip when the slide returns to battery.

[M2CattleCo]

Dan Wesson doesn’t bevel the rail and it does make it bumpy ride into battery.

The disconnector is beveled so it’s ok, but it wouldn’t hurt anything to break the corner if you want.

[Rmiked]

Farscott, I agree completely and openly admit my ignorance when speaking of 1911s. And my DW Specialists functions fine but there is a slight bump and it is to be expected since the disconnector rail must depress the disconnector. I just went up and disassembled my pistol and snapped a few pics. To my surprise Dan Wesson already beveled the leading edge of the disconnector rail. And they went completely across the width. I inserted a magazine with SPENT on the frame with the slide removed. The leading edge of the disconnector rail makes full width contact with the rear of casing to assure proper feeding. I included a pic of rail as it hits disconnector and one with rail impacting spent case. I also took a picture of the radius on the firing pin stop. I had seen pictures online of other 1911s without the beveled leading edge and assumed mine was the same. I am very impressed with the level of detail in the design of the Dan Wesson Specialists. But like I said, I am new to 1911s but have seen pics of several other 1911s without the beveled edge on disconnector rail.

[Rmiked]

Dan Wesson doesn’t bevel the rail and it does make it bumpy ride into battery.

The disconnector is beveled so it’s ok, but it wouldn’t hurt anything to break the corner if you want.

Since mine has it and it is new I wonder if this is a change that CZ ownership brought to DW 1911s? Looks. Like a subtle but nice feature.

[M2CattleCo]

Could be.

My last DW was a 9mm and it didn’t have it but that was 3-4 years ago.