Old School DA Revolver Field Cleaning Kit - Rev3- 7 Feb 2018

[Outpost75]

Thanks to FBI Academy and FLETC instructor cadre who offered their edits and suggestions which are now incorporated here.

This originally was an email to a youngster I mentored who inherited his late Dad's old "cop gun" who asked what he needed for routine cleaning. I thought that my reply would be of general interest. While this list is oriented towards an S&W fixed sight revolver, it works with Colts, Rugers or auto pistols with a few gun-specific mods being required if specific tools are recommended.

-------------- Original query is deleted to protect the privacy of the innocent -------------

I was taught old school revolver and dislike aerosols, so I don’t use them. Their propellant causes moisture condensation on the gun, they are expensive for the amount of product and waste far too much in product in dispensing.

For general cleaning and lubrication I like Kano Kroil Brownell’s 471-100-008WB Kroil Pour Can or Ed's Red. If you don't want to mix your own, buy blended professionally from Brownell's. 083-150-001WB 4 oz. "Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...prod19936.aspx

Avoid storing a revolver wrapped in any cotton cloth, because it attracts moisture. I use these to wipe guns carried as EDC daily, and to wrap them up after cleaning and before casing to secure in locked container for travel or longer term storage: https://countycomm.com/collections/v...ro-fiber-cloth

Don’t store a revolver in a leather holster either, because the leather attracts moisture and long-term causes corrosion. If not routinely carrying, inspecting and wiping sweat and dirt off a handgun daily as EDC I store small revolvers or pocket autos in a Maratec zippered PVC pouch which doesn’t look like a gun case: https://countycomm.com/collections/p...epellant-pouch

My normal field cleaning gear goes into a small Cordura one: https://countycomm.com/collections/p...hes-by-maratac
Recommended field cleaning gear to keep in the small Maratec zipper pouch:

Dewey 4” loop brass pistol rod, Brownell’s 234-000-070WB

Brass loop patch holder .38 cal. /9mm Brownell’s 084-000-217WB

Two Dewey COTTON bore mops for CLEANING/WIPING, .38 cal. pk. Of 3 749-000-168WB. Can be used for a quick field clean without using patches. Use one mop to wet the bore before brushing. This avoids dipping a dirty brush into the bore cleaner and contaminating it. Use the wet cotton mop again after brushing to remove loosened crud. Use a different dry mop to soak up excess excess solvent before oiling the gun lightly and putting it away.

One Brownell’s double-tuff bore brush .38 cal./9mm in kit, pack of 3 084-142-137WB

One Brownell’s WOOL bore mop for OILING .38 cal./9mm in kit, pk. Of 3 084-415-037WB

Brownell’s gun parts cleaning brush 676-450-001WB
Or travel toothbrush https://countycomm.com/collections/v...vel-toothbrush

Brownell’s S&W revolver screwdriver bits only combo pack for S&W 080-087-002WB

Brownell’s Compact Magnetic LE screwdriver handle 080-089-006WB

Brownell’s needle oilers 3 pk. 084-000-361WB, allocated as below:

Bottle 1 - Kroil or Ed’s Red bore cleaner – ID by RED color when filled,
Bottle 2 - USP H1 food grade mineral oil for lubrication - ID easily because contents are CLEAR
Bottle 3 - Isopropyl alcohol to rinse mops and brushes after use. The "crud" falls to the bottom and will stay there. The implement dries quickly and is ready to go for the next range cleaning session. Alcohol is cheap (about a buck for a bottle), and it takes a while for the alcohol to foul to the point where it needs to be replaced. You will notice that brushes and mops last a lot longer using this process.

Alternately some people use clear mineral spirits in the extra bottle before washing them with hot soapy water in the motel sink if out on the road. This gets the implements cleaner, but they will then take longer to dry. But ion either case the professional armorer's advice is to ALWAYS clean used mops for a cleaner gun!

Some people use a .40 cal. NYLON heavy-duty bore brush (Brownell's 084-444-017WB) .40/.41/10mm Pistol, 3 Pk) just for cleaning .38/.357 revolver CHAMBERS. This is a good idea when firing more than 100 rounds of lead wadcutter training and practice ammo between cleanings. The nylon .40 cal. brush can also be used as expedient bore brush without harm. If firing .38 Special lead bullet ammunition, particularly if +P, in revolvers with .357 chambers (Brownell's stainless steel CHAMBER brush 084-455-137WB .38/.357 per 3) does a better job of removing lead deposits from CHAMBERS, used with Kroil, but SHOULD NOT BE USED IN THE BORE!

Norton UCS plastic scraper/cleaning stick, is non-scratching and great for getting encrusted fouling out of the nooks and crannies around the revolver barrel extension, the frame window or auto pistol slide face. MUCH better than the sharpened wooden Popsicle sticks we used to use in my time! https://countycomm.com/collections/v...cleaning-stick

For routine lubrication I use only ordinary USDA H1 rated pure USP mineral oil from the drug store, applied with patch, toothpick, Q-tip or eye dropper. For a good read on the subject, see the link and note that most so-called "gun lubes" are merely expensive "snake oil".
http://www.grantcunningham.com/2012/...-on-your-guns/

[SCCY Marshal]

...For routine lubrication I use only ordinary USDA H1 rated pure USP mineral oil from the drug store...

More expensive would be bottles at kitchen supplies as it is the standard for cutting boards (meaning it is also jus the ticket for wood revolver and knife stocks getting dry to prolong their service lives). Farm supply places have it cheap in bulk as it is used quite a lot for livestock. Why not get a gallon lifetime supply for the price of a small cookware bottle? Also great for lubricating pockeknife pivots. Note that it is bad for leather, though. Don't go oiling your holsters with it.

[That Guy]

Bottle 3 - Isopropyl alcohol to rinse mops and brushes after use. The "crud" falls to the bottom and will stay there. The implement dries quickly and is ready to go for the next range cleaning session. Alcohol is cheap (about a buck for a bottle), and it takes a while for the alcohol to foul to the point where it needs to be replaced. You will notice that brushes and mops last a lot longer using this process.

Sonuva... Why hasn't anyone told me this before?!?

Yet another excellent post. Learning has occurred. Thank you!

[jtcarm]

Sonuva... Why hasn't anyone told me this before?!?

Yet another excellent post. Learning has occurred. Thank you!

Isopropyl great stuff. I keep a bottle over my bench to degrease bullet molds and wipe the primer feed on my Dillon SDB when it starts squeaking.

Back in the day when network servers were backed up to tape, we used it to clean the read/write heads on the tape drives.

[WDR]

Norton UCS plastic scraper/cleaning stick, is non-scratching and great for getting encrusted fouling out of the nooks and crannies around the revolver barrel extension, the frame window or auto pistol slide face. MUCH better than the sharpened wooden Popsicle sticks we used to use in my time! https://countycomm.com/collections/v...cleaning-stick

Those things are awesome... I just wish they were not so expensive (by the time you pay shipping from countycomm). I should have bought 25 or 50 of them, instead of 5.

[jandbj]

Another option to consider instead of the UCS...

https://www.apex-internet.com/portfo...ols/index.html

Reasonable shipping & good guy discounts too.

[Bodhisattvya]

Perhaps adding a Lewis Lead Remover to the kit if he plans on shooting any amount of lead projectiles?

[TCinVA]

Perhaps adding a Lewis Lead Remover to the kit if he plans on shooting any amount of lead projectiles?

I found ChoreBoy wrapped around a stiff bristled brush far more effective at removing barrel leading than the LLR.

[revchuck38]

Perhaps adding a Lewis Lead Remover to the kit if he plans on shooting any amount of lead projectiles?

I have one but haven't used it for years. If your bullets are sized correctly - i.e., you can barely push them through the chamber mouths with the eraser end of a pencil from the rear of the chamber - leading is unlikely. I once did a class with my handloads using Zero 158-grain swaged RNLs loaded to +P velocity in my M67. I went through 720 rounds, and the bore came clean with a few swipes of a Hoppe's-saturated patch because the bullets were the right size for the chambers and bore.

OTOH, commercial ammo is a crapshoot. .38 wadcutter ammo from Federal, Remington, and Winchester tends to be sized correctly, as do their lead bullet defensive loads. I think Black Hills would be good in that regard too, but I haven't tried theirs. I don't know about the above manufacturers' lead bullet practice ammo. From what I've read, imported lead bullet ammo is pretty crummy, though I went through some S&B .38 Special 158-grain RNL a while ago and it seemed okay.

[Outpost75]

Perhaps adding a Lewis Lead Remover to the kit if he plans on shooting any amount of lead projectiles?

A Lewis lead remover should not be necessary with correct loads. I have not needed one in 50 years. Correct lead bullet loads should never lead the barrel, forcing cone or cylinder.

Leading most often results from loading commercial "hard cast" bullets which are too hard and undersized and which are lubricated with hard lubes which cannot flow under pressure to coat the bore, and therefore fail to provide boundary layer lubrication.

In standard-pressure handgun loads for .38 Special +P, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, 9mm, alloys of 10-12 BHN such as wheelweights are entirely adequate and soft film coat lubes such as Lee Liquid Alox or 45-45-10 are effective in eliminating leading. I have not found leading to be an issue with name brand US ammo of standard pressure. With lead +P loads you may get some leading, but it is easily removed with standard cleaning methods.