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Thread: Paging Outpost75: 38 vs. 357 Revolver

  1. #11
    Site Supporter FrankB's Avatar
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    The emperor has no clothes!

    I disagree about older S&W revolvers being better than new models. Hand fitting was required because the machining equipment was crap compared to today. Existing specimens for the days of old are either slightly used, have been repaired, or were exceptionally well fitted samples. I’ve owned 3 older S&W revolvers: 1957 Model 36; 1972 Model 60; and a 1970’s Model 19. They were all fine, but not Rolex quality. Two were sold to forum members, and they’re happy. My six recently made S&W revolvers are all perfect: .005”-.006” B/C gap, tight lockup, perfect timing, and assembled well. The single exception was my 4” 686’s extractor ratchets. They were a little ragged looking, and my OCD caused me to have Dave Olhasso fit a new extractor. I’m not a metallurgist, but today’s steel is supposedly much better than yesteryear’s.
    I’m going to be 60 in a few months, and have had my fair share of older cares, motorcycles, cameras, sailboats, bamboo fly rods, toasters, and all that. I don’t miss any of it, and have fully embraced the 21st Century.

  2. #12
    Revolvers Revolvers 1911s Stephanie B's Avatar
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    @03RN has a fairly high round count through his 66-8.
    If we have to march off into the next world, let us walk there on the bodies of our enemies.

  3. #13
    Abducted by Aliens Borderland's Avatar
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    I'll add my perspective even tho nobody ask for it. A model 19 or 66 is about as versatile as they come. The nice thing about .357 is you can load it up or down. My Hornady manual lists 4 powders that will give you 900 fps using lead and six that will give you 1150 fps using FMJ. That's with an 8" barrel so slower with a shorter barrel but the ratio would be the same.

    I load using .357 brass for about 850 fps. and shoot those in two model 19's. There is no need to burn more powder and buy FMJ bullets to play around at the range. If I wanted either of those for HD/SD I would buy a box of the hot stuff so I can shoot thru car doors and refrigerators.

    38's are nice, I have a few, but those are J frames and not a lot of fun to shoot. Of course a K frame 38 would be just as nice as a K frame .357 but without the versatility.

    Buying a K frame 38 spl. makes about as much sense as an N frame 44 spl. 44 mag can be loaded up and down the same way.

    I know, some people just like the specials. I've lusted for a model 24 for awhile but the prices have stopped me.
    Last edited by Borderland; 05-15-2021 at 07:47 PM.
    In the P-F basket of deplorables.

  4. #14
    I would get a dedicated .38. I don't like to shoot .38 in a .357. I have a .38 target gun that is just a blast to shoot.

  5. #15
    Site Supporter Totem Polar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by okie john View Post
    I'm definitely leaning more toward a 38 than a 357, but the swirl remains strong at this point.

    And I may take you up on that offer.


    Okie John
    You can try anything I’ve got if you’re around, brother.
    ”But in the end all of these ideas just manufacture new criminals when the problem isn't a lack of criminals.” -JRB

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Borderland View Post
    I'll add my perspective even tho nobody ask for it. A model 19 or 66 is about as versatile as they come. The nice thing about .357 is you can load it up or down. My Hornady manual lists 4 powders that will give you 900 fps using lead and six that will give you 1150 fps using FMJ. That's with an 8" barrel so slower with a shorter barrel but the ratio would be the same.

    I load using .357 brass for about 850 fps. and shoot those in two model 19's. There is no need to burn more powder and buy FMJ bullets to play around at the range. If I wanted either of those for HD/SD I would buy a box of the hot stuff so I can shoot thru car doors and refrigerators.

    38's are nice, I have a few, but those are J frames and not a lot of fun to shoot. Of course a K frame 38 would be just as nice as a K frame .357 but without the versatility.

    Buying a K frame 38 spl. makes about as much sense as an N frame 44 spl. 44 mag can be loaded up and down the same way.

    I know, some people just like the specials. I've lusted for a model 24 for awhile but the prices have stopped me.
    I don’t like shooting .357 much in a K frame - I have a bit of joint trouble all up my dominant arm, from wrist, to elbow, to shoulder. I have had a 19 and a 13. I currently have a 60-9 which is technically a .357, but I pretend it’s not cut for that. Mostly, I use it to practice shooting a J frame without having to shoot an airweight all the time. I shoot a lot of .38 through my 15-4, which is lighter and better balanced for me than the K frame .357s were, but pleasant with all .38 loads which can range from very light to pretty heavy and honestly do most of everything I will ever need a revolver to do. If I shoot .357, it’s through a 6” N frame or my Marlin 1894. The Marlin is fun to shoot .38s - they are like .22s through the rifle - and the heaviest .357s are pleasant and not even a chore, even when my gimpy shoulder won’t take much recoil.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by okie john View Post
    Agree 100%, but I'm trying to choose between a Model 66 and a Model 67. What are your thoughts on the two cartridges? I'd stick to 158-grain and heavier bullets in the 357 Magnum due to forcing cone issues.

    thanks,


    Okie John
    If you're talking full-tilt boogie Mag-a-num loads, I agree. And...

    There are some "middle Magnum" loads like the 125 grain Golden Saber and 135 Grain Gold Dot that are more like "really hot 9mm" energy levels that I don't believe have the same forcing cone issues, but offer some pretty good performance for your distant fourth use case.

    I use them as "town loads" when I'm toting the GP100 on one of our backcountry adventures.
    I was into 10mm Auto before it sold out and went mainstream, but these days I'm here for the revolver and epidemiology information.

  8. #18
    Wood burnin' Curmudgeon CSW's Avatar
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    Another unsolicited opine:

    Find an old Ruger Security Six in stainless. It's not quite the GP100, but it'll outlast you.
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    "... And miles to go before I sleep".

  9. #19
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    Ruger LCRx in .357 Magnum?

    Lighter than a K-Frame. I'm not sure about long-term reliability with magnums @jetfire - but with wadcutters you aren't going to wear it out, with +P .38s you probably won't wear it out either. Downside it carries 5 instead of six. You have to decide if the reduction in weight is worth it.

    Polymer sub-frame and good grip design make them more comfortable to shoot than any J or K, unless you're running Hogues on them. Better trigger than any Smith or all steel Ruger currently produced.

  10. #20
    Member Zeke38's Avatar
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    I have 357s in J.K and L frame sizes. I load a 357 power equivalent out of all three. Right now it is a 358156 158SWC over 9.2 grains of HS-6 and whatever primer that is on the shelf. Good for a little over 1.000fps in all my guns in 357. This load is also very accurate and an excellent SD load.

    I live in Central Idaho and if I'm trucking off to the woods, I take a revolver that is most usually a 44 or some type, usually Smith and Wesson.

    I used to do the 38 dance with my J and K frame and +P and bullseye loads. Now it is a simple 158 gr SWC as listed above and a 800fps load. SD loads are from the ammo vendors.

    Simplicity in loading and using. The 38/357 loadings are finicky for POA/POI when you begin swapping bullet weights and powder brands and charges. One load for both and know where they shoot with that load. Hits count/ Misses don't!

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