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Thread: RevolverRob's I hate TORX Rant

  1. #21
    Member olstyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post
    Once I get everything disassembled, I'll measure the hardware and order appropriately sized and hardened fasteners in a slot style.
    You enjoy having the bit slide out while you're trying to turn it? Flat head/slot screws suck out loud.

    If I had to choose a single type to use for everything, Torx would be VERY high up in the running. Triple square would also be a strong contender. Flat head and Philips wouldn't even be in consideration.

  2. #22
    Site Supporter rob_s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olstyn View Post
    You enjoy having the bit slide out while you're trying to turn it? Flat head/slot screws suck out loud.

    If I had to choose a single type to use for everything, Torx would be VERY high up in the running. Triple square would also be a strong contender. Flat head and Philips wouldn't even be in consideration.
    I'm with you... sort of.

    There are certain applications where I'd prefer slotted. 1911 grip screws come to mind. as do certain other screws on certain other tools/guns/knives where I want to have options when it comes to loosening/tightening that don't leave me wondering "now where did I put that bit set that came with this Leatherman..."
    Does the above offend? If you have paid to be here, you can click here to put it in context.

  3. #23
    Site Supporter Maple Syrup Actual's Avatar
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    I prefer Robertson to anything (although I admit that as I continue to see polls showing approval of the current administration here my patriotism has been severely curtailed) but Torx I love-hate.

    I used to hate them, but I also used to have cheap drivers. Since I went to better drivers, and have a complete set that I protect carefully so I always have the right bit, I find they'll take a lot of torque. But I don't carry a good set of torx bits around with me so I think of them as not very field-serviceable.

    Running in deck screws with an impact, Torx is awesome. On the bench, they're awesome. In a clean shop environment, awesome.

    Once they start getting muddy or packed with stuff I find them much fiddlier to clean sufficiently to get the level of tooth engagement or whatever necessary to not wreck the bit or the screw.

    So I am really impressed with the performance in ideal conditions, but sometimes frustrated by them in practise.
    This is a thread where I built a boat I designed and which I very occasionally update with accounts of using it, which is really fun as long as I'm not driving over logs and blowing up the outboard.
    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....ilding-a-skiff

  4. #24
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maple Syrup Actual View Post
    I prefer Robertson to anything (although I admit that as I continue to see polls showing approval of the current administration here my patriotism has been severely curtailed) but Torx I love-hate.

    I used to hate them, but I also used to have cheap drivers. Since I went to better drivers, and have a complete set that I protect carefully so I always have the right bit, I find they'll take a lot of torque. But I don't carry a good set of torx bits around with me so I think of them as not very field-serviceable.

    Running in deck screws with an impact, Torx is awesome. On the bench, they're awesome. In a clean shop environment, awesome.

    Once they start getting muddy or packed with stuff I find them much fiddlier to clean sufficiently to get the level of tooth engagement or whatever necessary to not wreck the bit or the screw.

    So I am really impressed with the performance in ideal conditions, but sometimes frustrated by them in practise.
    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    I hate long-distance dirt bikes that are built with Torx or even worse, E-star heads. Because if I end up halfway down Baja and some galoot has managed to steal my tools, I will probably be able to find 6- or 12-point sockets a lot easier. If I ever get that KTM/Husky, I will spend a bunch of extra money with ARP, McMaster-Carr, and/or Fastenal.
    I keep saying this, but I look forward to hanging out one day.
    .
    -----------------------------------------
    Not another dime.

  5. #25
    Site Supporter Maple Syrup Actual's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    I keep saying this, but I look forward to hanging out one day.
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    This is a thread where I built a boat I designed and which I very occasionally update with accounts of using it, which is really fun as long as I'm not driving over logs and blowing up the outboard.
    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....ilding-a-skiff

  6. #26
    Site Supporter Norville's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post
    I am increasingly convinced that star drive/double square/torx head fasteners are a communist plot designed to infuriate me and break my spirit.

    I stripped out, probably the 50th torx fastener in my life time on a, not inexpensive, knife, earlier today. The long and short is, particularly small torx screws (T10 and below) strip with alarming regularity compared to hex/Allen, square head, and especially a good wide and deep slotted head.

    Part of this is the bits have a tendency to break, because lots of torque, small surface area. But also the screws themselves are often not properly milled/cast around the bit opening. The tapered nature of the Torx head only exacerbates stripping compared to Phillips, by producing the same camming out effect common when Phillip's strip, but applying it over more, but smaller, surfaces, amplifying the problem.

    In short, Torx sucks. And the gun/knife industry has come to rely on it far too much. I'll be grinding a flat slot into a Torx fastener later, with my Dremel. Something I've done far too many times.

    Why did this shit standard ever become a thing? The only "benefit" is that the Torx drive doesn't have to be "timed" due to the symmetry of the head. I'd fucking trade that for a fastener that doesn't strip if you look at it wrong any damned day of the week.

    I'm going to start buying slotted machine screws to replace every fucking Torx fastener I own.
    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    Two points:

    1. Quality fasteners are made to standards, which specify combinations of head, tool cavity, and thread diameter. For example, DIN 912 is the essentially universal standard for metric socket head cap screws.
    https://www.fasteners.eu/standards/DIN/912/

    If you're an engineer specing out metric socket head cap screws, they are going to comply with the standard. Getting anything different in quality is going to be 20:1 cost ratio if not more, and you may not even be able to find a fastener house that will or even can build off-spec stuff for you using proper methods.

    If you insist on using the same tool size for all the different screws, you're going to compromise with some screws being bigger/heavier/uglier than they need to be, or some being possibly marginally too small, or some of both.

    You might have noticed I am kind of OCD on this stuff, and an engineer. I'd waaaay rather have a quality, standard fastener spec'ed than something custom. Custom fasteners far too often are mega-fail.

    Case study A: The aforementioned rail screws from Beretta. I was present when a buddy was trying to zero his 1301 with slugs and the heads popped off the fasteners, because they are made with other than standard manufacturing methods.

    Case study B: The only wart on a Howa bolt-action rifle is the bolt stop screw. It is a custom-designed fastener, and it is utter crap. It has a stress riser where the head transitions to the shank, rather than a nice radius, and then, because it's turned on a lathe, rather than forged and rolled, there are circular tool marks that put "crack here" rings all around the stress riser. It can be unkittened by making a shoulder bushing sized just right for a SHCS that's made from 190ksi material with a forged head, radius underhead, and rolled threads.

    2. Related to that, a lot of it comes down to what can be ordered. Most part or system manufacturers don't do enough volume on any given fastener to be direct with a standard fastener manufacturer. When you need only up to a few tens of thousands a year (or a lot less) of four different part numbers per year, you go through a fastener distributor, so you can get as many of your fasteners as possible from one source. This gives you a better relationship and a better position from which to negotiate your price. Also, fewer accounts to keep track of. It may totally be the case that, although the fastener you want theoretically exists based on the standard document, it's not actually manufactured. Or you might be able to get the length, thread pitch and metallurgy you need, but not the head form. Etc.

    Summary:
    Torx is a really good design, when executed in a quality fastener.

  7. #27
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norville View Post
    Summary:
    Torx is a really good design, when executed in a quality fastener.
    AND when used in ideal circumstances. @Maple Syrup Actual's point is well noted. I actually hate TORX not only because or the poor quality of fasteners frequently used, but also for the limited field maintenance of it.

    And while I agree with @olstyn that slots can slide and you definitely do not want slotted fasteners holding your furniture together. Slotted fasteners that are appropriately sized and have deep and wide heads are some of the best out there for field use. While a penny or nickle isn't a screwdriver, you can disassemble a Webley revolver with one. Once you move from slots the ability to create a field expedient screwdriver drops.

    Though I'm not a big fan of Phillips, you can at least use a flat-head screwdriver on them. I mean I can do that with Torx too...once I hammer that shit in there.

    ETA: Tagged the wrong individual, I tagged @wvincent when I meant to tag @olstyn

  8. #28
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    I hate having metic and sae and now torx and allens.

    I came across a torx security bit replacing a water filter in a drinking foundation. WTF.

    Torx work better for me if I cast away any bit with wear or stripped a screw.

  9. #29
    Member Hemiram's Avatar
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    I haven't had many problems with TORX fasteners themselves, but some of the junk drivers, yes. Unlike cheaper Phillips and slotted screwdrivers that have worked well for me, the cheap allen and TORX divers are just garbage. I got some with a tool set I bought at a local tool sale. The wrenches are fine, the drill bits are fine, but those 7 TORX drivers were like they were made out of glass. They just shattered when any force was applied to them. I've never seen anything as brittle as those drivers were. I replaced them in the set with some old ones from Ebay, and they might look a bit rough, the plastic on the handles isn't pretty anymore, but the bits are great and were about half the cost of a new set from the same company.

    My horror stories all involve tiny allen screws on various radios and other electronics. One radio took out at least 3 allen wrenches before it decided to break loose. They just weren't stiff enough to keep from breaking or ending up like half a used twist tie. I had to go to some place in town that sells high end tools at high end prices to get a set of German allen wrenches, and was finally able to get that screw and the knob it held off. Years later, I still have all of those drivers and none of them has more than a tiny bit of twist on them.

  10. #30
    Just as an aside, I've been really happy with this brand of Torx bits:

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/GRK-0-x-2-i...Count/50303273

    That company makes Torx head screws that I also like, and includes the bits with a box of screws. I noticed that the bits last through many boxes of screws, which not all brands of Torx bits do. I suppose it makes sense; if you were using crappy bits with their screws, you probably wouldn't be buying their screws anymore.

    They give you the one inch length with the screws. I have also bought a set of the 2 inch ones. I use them with the impact driver and use the one inch ones with a manual insert bit screwdriver for e.g. ... 1911 grip screws :-).

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