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Thread: I want a heavy but low power scope

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by okie john View Post

    If you handload, then you can create reduced loads using H4895 and the instructions at https://imrpowder.com/wp-content/upl...ifle-loads.pdf My son absolutely pole-axed a 200-ish pound hog with a 165-grain Remington Pointed Soft Point CoreLokt from a 20.5" Husqvarna 30-06 carbine. Muzzle velocity was 2,550 FPS. That’s basically a hot 300 Savage or a mild 308, but it's solid deer medicine and recoil is mild.


    Okie John

    Nice rifle choice! I've started using my pop's old Husqvarna 30-06 for my last several deer. Unfortunately, I can't get better than 2 MOA out of it, so think I'll move on for open country hunting. How's your's shoot?

    James

  2. #12
    Member Wake27's Avatar
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    Another vote for the razor. Great performance and the heavier non-E versions can be had used under $1k. I don’t know anything about the other scopes mentioned but I bet the razor can stack up against if not out perform most or all. Might as well add capability with that weight.


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  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by JDB View Post
    Nice rifle choice! I've started using my pop's old Husqvarna 30-06 for my last several deer. Unfortunately, I can't get better than 2 MOA out of it, so think I'll move on for open country hunting. How's your's shoot?

    James
    That one is a 1640, which is a small-ring commercial Mauser based on the 1898. Husqvarna considers it an "improved" version but that's open to debate. I've owned several over the years and found them to be accurate, especially with bargain factory loads like the Remington CoreLokt, Winchester PowerPoint, and the Federal HiShok in both 150- and 180-grain weights. They're known to damage their stocks in recoil, usually by splitting the web. The tangs also weren't always relieved properly, so look for damage there. This is particularly common on guns they built for other brands like JC Higgins. Glass bedding should fix all of that. In 30-06, they have a 1:12 twist, which is a little too slow for 220-grain bullets but anything lighter should shoot well.

    You can spot a 1640 by the tiny bolt stop on the left side of the action as shown here:

    Name:  Screen Shot 2021-05-14 at 6.30.15 AM.jpg
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    I've also owned a number of 640s, which are built on a commercial 98 Mauser actions made by FN in Belgium. Stocks are usually beech or birch, both of which are harder and somewhat heavier than walnut. All of the standard accuracy tricks for the 98 work with this one. The first thing to check is the action screw tension. Crank in the front one as tight as it will go with a screwdriver. Do the same thing to the back one, then back it out 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn. Adjusting the tension on the rear screw can change group size. Some of those shoot best when they're free floated, others seem to need a little bit of upward pressure from the stock. Glass bedding never hurts, either, but if you do that, then crank both screws in good and tight.

    You can spot them by the massive Mauser bolt stop on the left side of the action as shown here:

    Name:  Screen Shot 2021-05-14 at 6.36.37 AM.jpg
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    Either should be a solid hunting rifle that will provide decades of service is the bore is any good. Scandinavians know how to build solid hunting rifles.


    Okie John
    “The reliability of the 30-06 on most of the world’s non-dangerous game is so well established as to be beyond intelligent dispute.” Finn Aagaard
    "Don't fuck with it" seems to prevent the vast majority of reported issues." BehindBlueI's

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by okie john View Post
    That one is a 1640, which is a small-ring commercial Mauser based on the 1898. Husqvarna considers it an "improved" version but that's open to debate. I've owned several over the years and found them to be accurate, especially with bargain factory loads like the Remington CoreLokt, Winchester PowerPoint, and the Federal HiShok in both 150- and 180-grain weights. They're known to damage their stocks in recoil, usually by splitting the web. The tangs also weren't always relieved properly, so look for damage there. This is particularly common on guns they built for other brands like JC Higgins. Glass bedding should fix all of that. In 30-06, they have a 1:12 twist, which is a little too slow for 220-grain bullets but anything lighter should shoot well.

    You can spot a 1640 by the tiny bolt stop on the left side of the action as shown here:

    Name:  Screen Shot 2021-05-14 at 6.30.15 AM.jpg
Views: 150
Size:  14.6 KB

    I've also owned a number of 640s, which are built on a commercial 98 Mauser actions made by FN in Belgium. Stocks are usually beech or birch, both of which are harder and somewhat heavier than walnut. All of the standard accuracy tricks for the 98 work with this one. The first thing to check is the action screw tension. Crank in the front one as tight as it will go with a screwdriver. Do the same thing to the back one, then back it out 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn. Adjusting the tension on the rear screw can change group size. Some of those shoot best when they're free floated, others seem to need a little bit of upward pressure from the stock. Glass bedding never hurts, either, but if you do that, then crank both screws in good and tight.

    You can spot them by the massive Mauser bolt stop on the left side of the action as shown here:

    Name:  Screen Shot 2021-05-14 at 6.36.37 AM.jpg
Views: 178
Size:  18.0 KB

    Either should be a solid hunting rifle that will provide decades of service is the bore is any good. Scandinavians know how to build solid hunting rifles.


    Okie John
    Hey thanks! Mine is a 1640 then. I'll try action screw tension then, already glass bedded it. For sentimental reasons, I'd hate to have to get a new barrel. It's such a handy rifle. I had it Ceracoted it black last year, thinking it would be my coastal AK gun. But the accuracy just isn't cutting it right now.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by JDB View Post
    Hey thanks! Mine is a 1640 then. I'll try action screw tension then, already glass bedded it. For sentimental reasons, I'd hate to have to get a new barrel. It's such a handy rifle. I had it Ceracoted it black last year, thinking it would be my coastal AK gun. But the accuracy just isn't cutting it right now.
    A few questions:

    What optic and loads are giving you 2 MOA?

    Is the barrel free floated? Humidity can warp the stock enough to make it touch the barrel which can open up groups. Also, you should weatherproof the interior of the stock with something like Johnson's Paste Wax to be on the safe side.

    How does the crown look? You might need to have a gunsmith clean this up if it's nicked or dinged.

    When is the last time you cleaned the bore down to bare metal with something like Sweets? Those old rifles can hide a surprising amount of fouling.

    What kind of trigger are you using? Some of the factory triggers are essentially a military k98 trigger and could use some love from a smith. If nothing else, it's easy to take them apart, clean them, and reassemble them, which can really help.

    Have you rechecked the rings, bases, and mounts, and LocTited them in place? The 1640 is so light that those things shoot loose faster than they do on heavier rifles.

    Also, the next time you take it out of the stick, use LocTite 243 on the screw that holds the ejector in place. An ounce of prevention and all that...


    Okie John
    “The reliability of the 30-06 on most of the world’s non-dangerous game is so well established as to be beyond intelligent dispute.” Finn Aagaard
    "Don't fuck with it" seems to prevent the vast majority of reported issues." BehindBlueI's

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 314159 View Post
    I built a lightweight Remington 7600 carbine long ago and did a great job, if I say so myself.

    A bit too good of a job. Ageing makes you really appreciate light weight but my recoil tolerance has dropped as well. I want to increase the weight a bit and rather than just put lead in the butt stock and mess up the balance I plan on adding steel scope rings and a steel tube scope to fatten it up some. If that's not enough I will add a weight.

    So, recommendations for a 2 to preferably 3 power, 1 inch or 30mm steel tube scope? I'm thinking an old Weaver K3 but I would like recommendations from the hive mind here. In the era of steel scope tubes I don't think there were a lot of good variables to choose from but I'm open minded...
    I prefer steel scope tubes myself. The only recent production steel tube scope that I know of is the scarce and costly 10x U.S. Optics MST-100. You might try finding a Zeiss/Hensoldt DIASTA 4x32 or Kahles Helia 1.1-4.5x20 scope.
    Michael@massmeans.com | Zeleny@post.harvard.edu | westcoastguns@gmail.com | larvatus prodeo @ livejournal | +1-323-363-1860 | “If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed.” — Curly Howard, 1936 | “All of old. Nothing else ever. Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better.” — Samuel Beckett, 1984

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