1911 Specialist Break-in question? 10mm

[Rmiked]

After shooting the first 100 rounds, cleaning and lubricating when new and at 50 rounds, I had a few instances of failure to go in battery. Never when shooting the pistol but rather charging it. The manual says to charge the pistol using the slide release. Sometimes it won’t go in battery but a gently tap in rear of slide with base of hand and it goes right in. If charging by manually pulling the slide back (without locking it back) and releasing it the round goes into battery every time. Is this a break-in issue that will resolve? If I wasn’t charging it using the slide release I might have never had this failure. When firing the pistol is ejects, reloads every time. I’m guessing the additional spring force from manually pulling slide back further than the slide stop position generates the necessary force to chamber the round much like shooting it with auto-reload. Thanks

[sparkyv]

Interesting, I've never read in a 1911 manual where the manual says to charge the pistol using the slide release. One certainly can, but the slide release is usually referred to as a slide stop. Regardless, I think you've solved your own problem. Just slingshot the slide like so many 1911 shooters do, and Bob's your uncle.

After shooting the first 100 rounds, cleaning and lubricating when new and at 50 rounds, I had a few instances of failure to go in battery. Never when shooting the pistol but rather charging it. The manual says to charge the pistol using the slide release. Sometimes it won’t go in battery but a gently tap in rear of slide with base of hand and it goes right in. If charging by manually pulling the slide back (without locking it back) and releasing it the round goes into battery every time. Is this a break-in issue that will resolve? If I wasn’t charging it using the slide release I might have never had this failure. When firing the pistol is ejects, reloads every time. I’m guessing the additional spring force from manually pulling slide back further than the slide stop position generates the necessary force to chamber the round much like shooting it with auto-reload. Thanks

[TC215]

Probably hanging up on the disconnector. I wouldn’t worry about it. DWs are known for that, but it’s normally more noticeable in the 9mm’s. It should get better as you shoot it more.

[farscott]

Having a new 1911 not going fully into battery when charged by hand is not unusual with tightly fitted pistols. In my experience, the barrel to barrel bushing interface is the issue. As noted, it will go away as the gun is shot and the fitted surfaces wear a bit.

I typically do not use the slide stop to chamber a round; I prefer to pull the slide rearward, causing the slide stop to drop freely. Part of the reason is commonality with other semi-auto handguns and part of it is trying to avoid wear to the slide's stop notch. The latter is more of an issue on older slides lacking modern heat treatment, but I just treat all 1911-pattern pistols the same. For one-handed shooting, I do use the slide stop. Right hand thumb and left hand index finger.

[Eyesquared]

Interesting, I've never read in a 1911 manual where the manual says to charge the pistol using the slide release. One certainly can, but the slide release is usually referred to as a slide stop. Regardless, I think you've solved your own problem. Just slingshot the slide like so many 1911 shooters do, and Bob's your uncle.

FM23-35 from 1940 says to press on the slide stop to chamber a round. The FM also said if you want to have the maximum number of rounds, to drop a round by hand into the chamber, drop the slide, and then insert a loaded mag, which is generally considered poor practice by current 1911 users. Nobody competent treats any manual as an authoritative guide to shooting practices.

[revchuck38]

Interesting, I've never read in a 1911 manual where the manual says to charge the pistol using the slide release. One certainly can, but the slide release is usually referred to as a slide stop. Regardless, I think you've solved your own problem. Just slingshot the slide like so many 1911 shooters do, and Bob's your uncle.

The slide stop vs. slide release discussion has been going on for at least a century. I’m in the “whatever works for you” category. I use the slide release, but my 1911s are well broken in.

[HCM]

After shooting the first 100 rounds, cleaning and lubricating when new and at 50 rounds, I had a few instances of failure to go in battery. Never when shooting the pistol but rather charging it. The manual says to charge the pistol using the slide release. Sometimes it won’t go in battery but a gently tap in rear of slide with base of hand and it goes right in. If charging by manually pulling the slide back (without locking it back) and releasing it the round goes into battery every time. Is this a break-in issue that will resolve? If I wasn’t charging it using the slide release I might have never had this failure. When firing the pistol is ejects, reloads every time. I’m guessing the additional spring force from manually pulling slide back further than the slide stop position generates the necessary force to chamber the round much like shooting it with auto-reload. Thanks

Normal and addressed in the owners manual.

Dan Wesson 1911's are built tight. There is a 500 round factory recommended break in process in the user manual. I would not worry unless it continues after the 500 round break in. See #6 below:

https://danwessonfirearms.com/ourqua...911-Manual.pdf

BEFORE FACTORY SERVICE
Break-in
1. Your Dan Wesson Handgun is built to tight
tolerances. Lubrication and cleaning is key in the
break-in process.
2. Only use generous amounts of the recommend
lubricants on the rails of your Dan Wesson.
3. We recommend that you felid strip, clean and
re-oil every 50 rounds during break in.
4. We recommend a break-in period of 300-500
rounds before the gun is competition/combat
ready.
5. Only use quality factory ball ammunition for the
break-in process.
6. Generally what you will see during this breakin process is failure to go into battery and or
sluggish slide operation. This is normal for tightly fitted 1911’s and will begin to work itself out
during the break-in process.
7. If for some reason the handgun continues to
have issues after this break-in process please
contact Dan Wesson.
8. Once your Dan Wesson pistol is properly
broken in only then is it recommended to use hollow points.
9. We do not recommend the use of +P ammunition to speed up the break-in process. This will
usually cause more problems.
Note: If any handgun components show
signs of damage or unusual or excessive
wear, stop using the firearm immediately
and contact your gunsmith or DAN WESSON FIREARMS for assistance.

[Rmiked]

This pistol is tight. The interior is as clean as the exterior. Very impressive workmanship. I can tell it is slickening up already. I have manually manipulated the slide on frame in between shooting. Seems like a way to break in faster without shooting live rounds? Ammo being hard to come by…

[Trooper224]

I told you once already, READ THE MANUAL. That does mean leaf through it, READ it.

[M2CattleCo]

Put a heavier recoil spring in it.

That’ll smash the lugs over the slide stop and make it more reliable.