Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23

Thread: Finally bought first 1911-Dan Wesson Specialist

  1. #11
    Congrats! I have been lusting after the Dan Wesson A2 for a while now, so of course it has been discontinued. At least 10mm is having a renaissance right now, so you should have no problems with ammo selections, at least when production capacity catches up.

  2. #12
    farscott, being new to 1911s, I’m not sure where specifically you mean “a drop of oil on disconnect rail?” I got all the other places from watching numerous videos. Is the disconnect rail accessible with Field strip or do the grips need to come off? I understand how the disconnector interfaces with the trigger bar and the sear. But have never heard anyone describe a disconnect rail? Thanks

  3. #13
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Dunedin, FL, USA
    On the recoil spring topic, shoot it as is. If the empty cases fly much further than expected, more recoil spring rate is needed. If the empties dribble out the port and land at your feet, less recoil spring rate is needed.

    The other thing to note is that recoil spring rate is not the only variable. The radius or lack thereof on the bottom of the firing pin stop determine where the slide impacts the hammer during cocking. Smaller radius means lower impact, meaning less leverage. So it takes more energy to cock the hammer. 10mm pistols are often built using flat-bottomed (no radius) firing pin stops. Same with mainspring weight. More rate means more energy is needed to cock the hammer.

    The issue with more recoil spring rate is the dip when the pistol returns to battery. A properly built 1911 can be fired without a recoil spring with no damage; the spring is needed to return the pistol to battery. If the barrel lugs are stopping on the frame's vertical impact surface, there can be no damage. DW should have a properly fit barrel.

    There is a tendency to fiddle with new 1911 pistols. The best option, in my experience, is to shoot the pistol and see what it does. If the behavior is not what is expected, that may indicate a change is needed.

  4. #14
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Dunedin, FL, USA
    Quote Originally Posted by Rmiked View Post
    farscott, being new to 1911s, I’m not sure where specifically you mean “a drop of oil on disconnect rail?” I got all the other places from watching numerous videos. Is the disconnect rail accessible with Field strip or do the grips need to come off? I understand how the disconnector interfaces with the trigger bar and the sear. But have never heard anyone describe a disconnect rail? Thanks
    The disconnect rail is the metal surface in the rear of the slide that actuates the disconnector. I have attached a picture showing the rail above the firing pin safety plunger on a Series '80 Colt. The surface to the right of the grip safety is the disconnect rail. The scallop cut is the working surface. A simple field strip is all that is needed, and it often is not on a five-inch pistol. If you have an needle oiler, just lock the slide back as shown in the picture and apply the drop.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  5. #15
    Site Supporter Trooper224's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Wichita
    If you're new to the 1911 and the 10mm, don't listen to much of the well meaning technical advice you've already received here. You don't need info overload when you don't know what you don't know. (Try to keep that in mind guys) Lube the gun as instructed in the owners manual. READ THE OWNERS MANUAL FIRST, this is important with the DW regarding lubrication and break in procedures. Then, shoot some standard factory ammo through it until you build familiarity, then concern yourself with hotter ammo, recoil spring rates, etc. It's a gun, not a spaceship.
    We may lose and we may win, but we will never be here again.......

  6. #16
    Farscott, I am familiar with that surface and I lubricate it. I just didn’t know what it was called. I understand that surface rubs on the hammer to cock it. Same on my Beretta 92 A1. I’m guessing the scalloped area is what performs the reset function. Thanks very much for explanation and picture.

    And Yes I have a needle oiler on my Lucas extreme duty gun oil bottle. I have not read the manual yet but I called DW today and the guy on the phone said that oil is fine for break in. If it calls for a different type, I’ll get that type.

  7. #17

    DW A2

    Bought a parkerized DW A2 full-size 45acp going on 2 years ago. Its been 100% functioning with 7 or 8 round magazines and a variety of JHP/FMJ 230gr ammo. The trigger on this pistol is light and clean breaking. Personally, if used in a self-defense role, I would actually prefer a bit heavier trigger. Great range gun though. Enjoy yours.

  8. #18
    Name:  C1040B8F-46B4-4E00-BDA0-74DAD5380A97.jpg
Views: 497
Size:  42.4 KBName:  EDFAB9EF-D434-4390-BFC8-AAF86BFC71C6.jpg
Views: 474
Size:  44.9 KB

    Here are the pics! Very excited.

  9. #19
    Member GearFondler's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Southeast Louisiana
    Damn... That is gorgeous!

  10. #20
    I was able to disassemble the new pistol and clean it and lubricate it so I could shoot it. I went to my farm and was able to shoot 50 rounds before dark. Arrived at 730 pm. The recoil impulse of the pistol was very comfortable. A lot less than I expected. Shooting the S & B 180 grain FMJ at 1165 ft/sec along with 42.7 oz pistol (unloaded) felt to me like my Beretta 92A1 shooting the Winchester NATO 124 grain 9mm. The Beretta weighs 34 oz unloaded. The pistol locked back on each empty mag. The ejector was throwing cases 10-12 feet. Fantastic trigger. The slim feel of the 1911 , the amazing trigger, the front and back strap checkering and these VZ grips make this the best feeling pistol I could imagine holding and shooting. Still surprised by the less than expected recoil. This ammo and pistol weight make this a very comfortable combination. I’ll clean it and lube it again and continue the break-in.

    I may need to drift my rear sight to the right 1 mm as it appeared to be grouping about 2” left at 10 yards. For those with Dan Wesson experience, is this possible with a nylon or brass punch or should I get and use a sight pusher tool? There is a hex screw in the center of the Ameriglo rear sight (tritium, Novak stlye). Loosening the hex screw the sight is not loose as expected as it is an interference fit in the dovetail. I was able to drift my Beretta rear sight with brass punch with no problems.

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •