Beretta 92 knuckle. How do I fix these sharp edges?

[claymore504]

IME it was never an issue with Berettas until the move to TN. Sharp edges on the tang and trigger guard are common on the TN made guns including the Wilson and LTT guns.

I do not see it this way with my Berettas. I have an italian made 92A1 and 92FS. The trigger guard edges on those are sharp. The 92A1 being worse. Then I have an Elite LTT and TN made 92 compact inox and the edges are much smoother on those.

[willie]

Looks to me as if a custom pistol selling for this amount would not have sharp edges especially one that will be refinished anyway.

[AdioSS]

Looks to me as if a custom pistol selling for this amount would not have sharp edges especially one that will be refinished anyway.

That is because these are production line pistols, not true customs.

[Caballoflaco]

I do not see it this way with my Berettas. I have an italian made 92A1 and 92FS. The trigger guard edges on those are sharp. The 92A1 being worse. Then I have an Elite LTT and TN made 92 compact inox and the edges are much smoother on those.

Yeah, I had an Italian M9A3 that was sharp as hell around the triggerguard and mag release.

[JSGlock34]

Yeah, I had an Italian M9A3 that was sharp as hell around the triggerguard and mag release.

These are common hotspots on the 92 - the LTT is much improved in these areas over other 92s, but as discussed may still benefit from some beveling.

[tlong17]

Having a carry beveled version and a non carry beveled version. My hands are noticeably less sore and raw after using the carry bevel. It still happens but takes a lot longer to get to the point where it’s uncomfortable.

[Hemiram]

IME it was never an issue with Berettas until the move to TN. Sharp edges on the tang and trigger guard are common on the TN made guns including the Wilson and LTT guns.

That's too bad. My last one was very nice. Came with like 8 mags 4 OEM, and 4 oddballs, but all worked fine) in almost NIB condition for $400. I had to sell it to survive tax season back in '16. I want another one, but I have a PT92 and that takes care of my 92 fix for now. I like the frame mounted safety better anyway.

Only gun I had that really hurt me due to sharp edges was my FEG P9R. The trigger was like a knife and cut my finger on the first shot. Between the sharp trigger and the insides that were about as crudely finished as I've seen in a long long time, I was busy for a while with my dremel on the trigger and then polishing most of the mechanism to get rid of the CRUNCH it had out of the box. It shot anything though and between my cleaning out the metal chips and polishing everything, it ended up like what it was supposed to be, a nice clone of an S&W 3rd Gen. It's DA trigger was still heavy, but smooth. A neighbor loved it and he bought it from me for almost exactly what I had paid for it six years previously, mods and all. That guy had an amazing gun collection and I would have loved to have had the chance to grab a couple of the WWII stuff he had, but it all went to his kids, who tossed a coin for first pick and divided it up.

[CraigS]

Not specifically for my 92 but I have gotten a couple of diy tools together for smoothing. For wood working I buy the sticky back square sand paper and cut to size and stick onto a piece of trim. Now, for gunsmithing, I can't find fine enough grit, so I buy wet/dry paper in full sheets and cut to whatever my need is. Hardware stores usually have paper up to 400 grit but auto parts stores will have it up to 2000 grit. What I am doing determines grit. On the outside of a gun I am usually in the 220-400 range. On internal parts the 800, 1000, and 2000 grits work really well. It is surprising how little buffing you need after a final sand w/ 2000 grit. I also bought wood dowels in several diameters. Sometimes I just wrap it w/ a piece of sand paper and hold it in place. But I also have a roll of double sided tape I keep handy to help hold paper to dowel. A month or so ago I went to hobby lobby and bought a pack of popsicle sticks. They work great w/ the double sided tape on flat surfaces. BTW the wet/dry paper is nice to have because putting a little water or oil on it helps carry away the fine dust and has the effect of making any given grit work like a one step finer grit. BTW 2, when you sand a G10 grip, the sanded area usually gets kind of a white cloud look to it. Go to 400 for your final, blow or wipe the dust away, and rub it w/ any oil you have handy. As soon as it looks good, grab a clean rag and wipe away the oil. My mag release access thinning.
20200505_083605 by craig stuard, on Flickr

[1slow]

If you are sanding G10, use a respirator, silicosis is an issue.

With exotic hardwoods ( cocobola etc...) use a respirator to avoid lung damage.

[JCS]

How did you go about rounding the edges over?

I used sandpaper wrapped around a rod. I think it was 150 grit and then 400 grit. I didn't disassemble it I just taped off open areas and wiped off the dust as I went.

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