Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Removing stripped and stuck RMR Torx screws?

  1. #1
    Site Supporter Paul D's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ

    Removing stripped and stuck RMR Torx screws?

    I fucked up.

    I was going to replace my MOS plate that was holding my RMR with a CHPWS plate. I put in a T8 Torx bit to the screw and turned. Snap! The tip of the bit sheared off into the screw! Fuck! When I installed it last, I used blue Loctite. I figured if I can heat the other screw up with an soldering iron, maybe I can get that off and somehow work on the other screw. After heating up the screw with the iron (did not give off impressive heat), I got a 2nd Torx bit and promptly broke the tip off that into the 2nd screw. Fuck me again! Any suggestions on un-fucking myself for this sad predicament?

  2. #2
    Pics? Were the screws originally installed with a torque wrench to a proper torque (something under 15 inch-lbs)? I assume this is the screws securing the sight to the plate, and not the plate to the slide? Those may be a challenge too...

    If you have a steady hand, a Dremel with a small cut off wheel, and nerves of steel, you may be able to cut a cross slot deep enough into the heads of the screws to use a regular screwdriver... but that's pretty risky. RMR screws are countersunk below flush, which would make cutting a cross slot difficult. A really good gunsmith may be able to drill/mill the heads of the screws out enough to remove the sight without damaging it. I imagine one of the slide milling houses would possibly have some experience with such work.

    Sorry amigo... no easy options here.

  3. #3
    Site Supporter Paul D's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Quote Originally Posted by WDR View Post
    Pics? Were the screws originally installed with a torque wrench to a proper torque (something under 15 inch-lbs)? I assume this is the screws securing the sight to the plate, and not the plate to the slide? Those may be a challenge too...

    If you have a steady hand, a Dremel with a small cut off wheel, and nerves of steel, you may be able to cut a cross slot deep enough into the heads of the screws to use a regular screwdriver... but that's pretty risky. RMR screws are countersunk below flush, which would make cutting a cross slot difficult. A really good gunsmith may be able to drill/mill the heads of the screws out enough to remove the sight without damaging it. I imagine one of the slide milling houses would possibly have some experience with such work.

    Sorry amigo... no easy options here.
    I think the only option will be to drill the screw heads off. I could not get the broken Torx bits out of the screw head and those bits are probably as hard (or harder) than my drills bits I have. Anybody have a recommendation for a smith call and mail this off to?

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    West
    I had a similar issue, expect the screws were holding a carbon-fiber plate onto a direct milled RMR cut. The plate was secured with blue lock tight, and to be candid, too much torque.

    I watched a ton of you-tube videos on stuck screws and eventually ordered Alden microGrabit extractors. They broke almost immediately and were a waste of time.

    In the end I used a dremmel tool and hack saw to trim back the carbon-fiber plate until I could grasp the screw heads with plyers. This probably won't be an appealing solution for you, as it would mean sacrificing the RMR.

    I think a good machinist can probably remove the screws. You may want to call around to machine shops in your area.

    For what it's worth, I now use a FAT wrench to secure my optics, and I'm hoping it prevents future problems.

  5. #5
    Site Supporter Oldherkpilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Warren, Ohio
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul D View Post
    I fucked up.

    I was going to replace my MOS plate that was holding my RMR with a CHPWS plate. I put in a T8 Torx bit to the screw and turned. Snap! The tip of the bit sheared off into the screw! Fuck! When I installed it last, I used blue Loctite. I figured if I can heat the other screw up with an soldering iron, maybe I can get that off and somehow work on the other screw. After heating up the screw with the iron (did not give off impressive heat), I got a 2nd Torx bit and promptly broke the tip off that into the 2nd screw. Fuck me again! Any suggestions on un-fucking myself for this sad predicament?
    Name:  il_794xN.2843240897_c42t.jpg
Views: 2839
Size:  103.3 KB
    If I was going to get a third tattoo, this would be it. Not sure if there's enough meat on that small of a screw to cut a slot with a Dremel. Otherwise, grind the heads off so you can pull the plate and get at the stubs. Sorry for your troubles.

  6. #6
    I had the same thing happen. I had to use the corner of a chisel to knock the piece of torx bit out of the screw, then i drilled out the stripped screw. Not easy or fun and i ruined a lot of drill bits before knocking the piece of torx bit out.

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    out of here
    This is one of the reasons I like using E6000 to sandwich the MOS plates so that the screws don’t have to carry as much load. That makes me resist the urge to over-loctite or over-torque those little screws.

    If the MOS plate is still attached, I’d sacrifice the plate and do the Dremel cut it away thing but leave the screws sticking up. Then use a Brûlée torch or BIC lighter and pliers on the exposed screw.

    If the pliers don’t grip it, then try either squaring the sides so you can grip it better or cutting a flat in the top for a screwdriver but there’s not much room to do that and generate much torque.

    Also Google pictures of MOS slides as there’s a center ridge that runs up. Don’t cut that.

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    out of here
    Also, I have stripped Torx heads and then just hammered in a larger tapered square head bit and used that to turn.

    Use heat if you can. Micro torch or BIC lighter works better than soldering iron if you’re just talking about slides and plates (obviously not if the optic is mounted).

  9. #9
    I have used the below "screw out" set with good luck, freeing stripped screws from my Leupold DDP and Holosun optics.
    https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Str...45619381&psc=1

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post

    For what it's worth, I now use a FAT wrench to secure my optics, and I'm hoping it prevents future problems.
    I love my FAT wrench. Highly recommended.
    #RESIST

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •