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Thread: Tell me why this is a terrible idea...

  1. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by JCN View Post
    Also, I posted in my other thread but I ordered this one too:

    Attachment 70428

    If the barrel threading works out, I figure I might try my hand at cutting and crowning the cheap barrel and then move on to this one.

    If neither barrel works out, I send it in.
    If both do, then I find a local machine shop to drill and tap the frame for the optic (or I buy more tools, which isn’t a bad thing).
    I don't want to be a wet blanket, but how do you plan on installing that barrel? Do you have the proper frame wrenches and inserts? Have you verified they even work with the 8-shot N (G) frames? I'm not sure offhand but I don't know of any of the 8-shot N/G scandium frames that use crush fit barrels. So that's not how S&W would even attach the factory barrels. Aren't they all the 2-piece type with the main tensioning piece up front like a Dan Wesson?

    Typically replacing the crush-fit barrel on an aluminum/scandium frame is a risky proposition even if everything else is in order. If you try to crush fit a steel N frame barrel onto a scandium G frame that's designed solely for a 2-piece barrel you're probably going to destroy that frame. There won't be any "sending it in" afterwards.

    I don't want to dissuade people from taking on interesting projects but the fact that the L and N frame barrels were not interchangeable should probably be a red flag to slow this train down a bit.

  2. #52
    Revolvers Revolvers 1911s Stephanie B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCN View Post
    Can anyone tell me why I couldn’t buy this:

    Attachment 70414

    And put it on an N-frame?
    Because the threads are different? I copied this from the Blue Forum:
    J Frame, .500"-36 threads. K Frame, .540"-36 threads.
    L Frame, .562"-36 thread, N Frame, .670"-36 thread
    This listing of frame taps from Brownll's indicates that they are all different.
    If we have to march off into the next world, let us walk there on the bodies of our enemies.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by jh9 View Post
    In addition to that, the 8-shot N-frames (G-frame) are taller than the old 6-shot N-frames by a few thousands of an inch and the front lock on the barrel won't line up with the center pin. Since you've got a ball detent lock on the yoke you can probably remove it from the barrel but I don't know i the thread pitch for the 2-piece barrels is different or not.
    Thanks! Hopefully the barrel thread pitch is appropriate between new and old N frames. The other parts I’m not concerned about.

    Quote Originally Posted by jh9 View Post
    I don't want to be a wet blanket, but how do you plan on installing that barrel? Do you have the proper frame wrenches and inserts? Have you verified they even work with the 8-shot N (G) frames? I'm not sure offhand but I don't know of any of the 8-shot N/G scandium frames that use crush fit barrels. So that's not how S&W would even attach the factory barrels. Aren't they all the 2-piece type with the main tensioning piece up front like a Dan Wesson? .
    But there’s a lot of incomplete information out there. The 327PC that I have uses the Dan Wesson type front barrel nut tensioner...

    But the 327 night guard doesn’t as far as I can tell.

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    If the barrel thread pitch works, then I can always buy or fabricate Delrin frame wrench inserts. That’s not the rate limiting step.

    I basically have unlimited budget, but not unlimited patience. If the barrel swaps seem problematic, I’ll send it in and have it done professionally.

    I give this project about a 15% chance of working in my hands. But if that works, it saves me six months.

  4. #54
    SOME of those guns have two piece barrels tightened with a wrench that engages the rifling.
    I just don't know if THAT gun is one of them.
    Code Name: JET STREAM

  5. #55
    Revolvers Revolvers 1911s Stephanie B's Avatar
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    Possibly a dumb question: You do have the S&W Shop Manual?
    If we have to march off into the next world, let us walk there on the bodies of our enemies.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephanie B View Post
    Possibly a dumb question: You do have the S&W Shop Manual?
    Nope, not a dumb question at all! I do not!

    If the barrels don't swap in easy, I'm sending it out and forgetting about it.

    But if it works even kind of, it'll let me figure out what kind of barrel length I'm looking for with what caliber.

    When testing the 6.5" 929 in 9mm, I was only getting velocities similar to a 3.7" semiauto (P365XL).

    I wasn't sure how much of that was because the cartridge wasn't able to take advantage of the longer barrel and am very curious to see what kinds of velocities a 3" versus 4" 9mm revolver would make.

    My TK cylinder conversion arrives on Friday, so I'll be able to get a sense of what 9mm does in a 2.5" Nightguard and I've tested it before in a 1.9" Ruger LCR 9.

    In the LCR 9, the velocities are similar to a P365 3.1" barrel, so there's a little bit of a gap in my knowledge of what 1.8" versus 6.5" does in a revolver when the velocities are framed by a 3.1" and 3.7" semiauto barrel.

    If I test the 2.5" Nightguard this weekend and I'm only making velocities close to the LCR9 then I might be tempted to go for a 4" barrel but would want to confirm it.

    If it looks like parts will fit, then I'll do more homework on the proper way to do things from a gunsmith standpoint.

    But it's funny, you can get a lot of good information on things that aren't "official."

    I like the example of the Smith and Wesson trigger spring tool...

    Versus Jerry Miculek's advice of using the tip of a BIC pen (works great).

  7. #57
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    Hmmm...

    This seems like it would work.

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    Just a little trimming and I think it might work...

  8. #58
    The Nostomaniac 03RN's Avatar
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    That looks pretty cool. Looks like it might shoot a bit low too

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03RN View Post
    That looks pretty cool. Looks like it might shoot a bit low too
    Hehe. I’m going to wait on the nice shiny barrel to come in before hacking this one up to make sure I like the pretty one.

    Then this one gets an inch hacked off the front and a front sight “created” off the base from this sight.

  10. #60
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    Looking for advice on mounting optic

    For those of you with some woodworking / metalworking experience...

    How bad of an idea is this?

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    To try and square up a channel to mount this:

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    It seems like it would be fairly simple to set up something that could slowly bore out the channel to fit the optic mount and then drill / tap for the mount.

    Am I being naively optimistic?

    Since the barrel seems like it will work with a little fitting, it’s really only the optic mount that I’d send it out for and waiting 4-6 months on it seems like it’s a lot for 1 hour of work.

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