Spare parts to keep on hand?

[Trooper224]

I used to keep spare screws on hand, particularly the front retaining screw on older S&W revolver sights, since they like to loosen up and eventually disappear especially on harder recoiling magnums. Buggered screws are a pet peeve of mind so I still keep some on hand for new acquisitions. A spare hammer nose (firing pin) or two isn't a bad thing to have on hand for older S&Ws. They can and do break on occasion.

These are handy to keep around for tune ups: https://triggershims.com/cylinder_shims.php

Having things on hand like an ejector, hand or bolt might not be a bad idea. Most revolver parts aren't plug and play, but having the parts on hand would be easier if you have to visit a gunsmith. Particularly with older revolvers that spare parts are getting thin on the ground for. They may be unobtanium when you eventually do need them. Back in the day, the best tool kit was the aforementiond gunsmith, but good revolver smiths are getting harder to find.

Extra guns are of course the easiest, but costliest thing to do. I prefer to have at least three of any working gun, but this isn't always feasible.

[ECVMatt]

I am not an expert but have experience with Ruger revolvers. I had a Ruger Blackhawk that began to misfire. Initially I thought it was the firing pin but learned it was the transfer bar. I now keep extra transfer bars on hand for my Ruger revolvers.

I also have spring sets and extra rear sights.

[LtDave]

I started to keep a spare oversized hand for K and N, rear sight blade and the small front screw for the rear sight, a couple sideplate screws, a mainspring, thumbpiece (cylinder release) nut, and I guess thats about it for basics.

Over time I expanded on the parts, partly from liking messing with them and partly from the simple desire to have stuff on hand instead of having to wait for parts if something got lost or broken. Ive kept my eyes open and grabbed various parts if I found them cheap. Its turned out that oversize hands for the older guns arent easy to get from Smith now, though theres parts from used guns around, and Power Custom has oversized hands and cylinder locking bolts. I dont know what size theirs are. Getting an oversized hand from Smith was somewhat of a gamble, you didnt know what the exact size would be. They made various thicknesses of them, and I think the factory just tried various ones to get them right or close for minimal fitting. Ive accumulated a few various sizes and have no concerns at all about being able to make mine run through the rest of my life.

In all, Ive cracked one rear sight blade from dropping the gun on a steel channel truck bumper, lost one thumbpiece nut, and had one mainspring break. Ive had a couple-three or so hands need replacing to correct timing. After paying someone else to do it I just started doing it myself. Its not that complicated.

If you have a Smith that isnt carrying up correctly, measure the hand thickness and try to get a hand thats .002-.003" thicker. Ive seen hands from .089 to .099 with one or two outside that range on each end. They are pretty hard and take a long time to stone down when much oversize. At least it takes a long time with the fine ceramic stone I have. Its the thickness (side to side dimension) that makes the final part of cylinder movement, and is the dimension that will correct a cylinder not coming all the way into time.

Keep in mind, even if you cant replace the parts, having some basics on hand can reduce the lag time to get your gun going, as whoever works on it wont have to search for and wait for parts.

Ive kept basic small spare parts for the guns I use most in a small pocket size clear plastic tackle box thing and throw it in my road gear when traveling. Ive never needed it, but like the feeling of having the basics covered.

What Malamute said about replacing and fitting a new hand is correct, but it omits one detail. A larger (thicker) hand may require opening up the window in the frame that the hand moves thru. An special file may be needed to accomplish this.

Back in the day, most smaller agencies in the LA area didn’t have an armorer or keep a lot of parts on hand as S&W service centers were local and could do the work without shipping guns back to MA. Places like LAPD or LASD did their own armorers and had direct contact with S&W for parts. All FBI guns needing service or repair were sent back to the Gun Vault at Quantico. Nowadays parts for many older revolvers are becoming hard to find and it is worth keeping some on hand.

[awp_101]

So it really sounds like springs and screws are about it for newer models. Anything else will probably require a trip to the Mothership or a trained professional.

I’m comfortable enough digging into the GP/SP series to replace just about anything inside. The one time I had the sideplate off a vintage Model 10 was a horse of a different color. I never cracked open any of the L or N Frames I had so I don’t know if they’re any better or worse than that old Model 10. I’m strongly considering dipping my toes into the Colt DA world of the 1950s-1970s so there’s no telling what sort of adventure that may be.

[Malamute]

What Malamute said about replacing and fitting a new hand is correct, but it omits one detail. A larger (thicker) hand may require opening up the window in the frame that the hand moves thru. An special file may be needed to accomplish this.
.

Yes, the window may need a little attention as well, putting the hand on the trigger and installing it in the frame and seeing if it cycles freely will tell that tale. Ive had to touch up a couple, but not much. Keep in mind to take metal off the frame on the inside or left side of the window, or youre wasting the advantage of the oversize hand and permanently changing the frame.

Ive so far gotten by with minimal window touch-up, more of a de-burring than anything until the hand moved freely installed on the trigger. I only had a swiss file, but should get the offset file in case I need to do more window work some day.

I watched a guy work on my 29 once, fitting an oversize hand, he took metal out on the right side, which made no sense to me, as the hand has to push the cylinder ratchet further left to finish the rotation into lock up. The gun timed better when he was done, but shooting 150 rds or so of medium power loads, it was back where it was. Thats when i decided to start doing my own. That gun now requires a hand on the upper end of the size scale. Much life was taken out of it, but I probably wont be able to shoot it enough in whats left of my lifetime to wear it out.

[lee n. field]

So it really sounds like springs and screws are about it for newer models. Anything else will probably require a trip to the Mothership or a trained professional.

I’m comfortable enough digging into the GP/SP series to replace just about anything inside. The one time I had the sideplate off a vintage Model 10 was a horse of a different color. I never cracked open any of the L or N Frames I had so I don’t know if they’re any better or worse than that old Model 10.

Getting and reading over the Kuhnhausen shop manual for S&W revolvers was enough to convince me I didn't want to do much of that work.

[Malamute]

Getting and reading over the Kuhnhausen shop manual for S&W revolvers was enough to convince me I didn't want to do much of that work.

Interested in selling the manual?

[OlongJohnson]

I watched a guy work on my 29 once, fitting an oversize hand, he took metal out on the right side, which made no sense to me, as the hand has to push the cylinder ratchet further left to finish the rotation into lock up. The gun timed better when he was done, but shooting 150 rds or so of medium power loads, it was back where it was. Thats when i decided to start doing my own.

Not wanting to pay somebody to irreversibly f up my stuff is one of the reasons I do so much work on things myself.

[Malamute]

Not wanting to pay somebody to irreversibly f up my stuff is one of the reasons I do so much work on things myself.

He had allegedly worked at the factory at some point, so was presumed to know what he was doing.


Live and learn.

[Random84]

GunBlue490 is a retired police officer, and a PD armorer. He’s discussing the new Model 19 in this video, but goes over all of the issues revolvers run into: https://youtu.be/4h9l2ipiKf4

Frank - can you send me a PM through the site, I'm limited due to just opening an account.