Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 28

Thread: Spare parts to keep on hand?

  1. #1
    Ready! Fire! Aim! awp_101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    DFW

    Spare parts to keep on hand?

    It’s not uncommon to see discussions on what spares to keep on hand for pistols and ARs, what about revolvers?

    I know most parts will need to be fitted, there are nomenclature differences between brands and it’s just not as easy to change parts as it is on a pistol. What sort of guidelines did departments use when they were revolver-centric?

    @Hizzie
    @Dagga Boy
    @Rex G
    @RevolverRob
    @Trooper224
    @anyone else I missed
    Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits - Mark Twain

    Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy / Where is the wisdom we have lost in knowledge?

  2. #2
    Site Supporter FrankB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Bucks County, PA
    GunBlue490 is a retired police officer, and a PD armorer. He’s discussing the new Model 19 in this video, but goes over all of the issues revolvers run into: https://youtu.be/4h9l2ipiKf4

  3. #3
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Beyond springs, grips, and sight parts, not much is user-replaceable.
    Spare complete revolvers, so you can send one out to be fixed?

  4. #4
    Member eb07's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    AZ High Desert
    I cannot speak for others but here is all I keep:

    extra side plate screws


    after that, my spares are simply a second revolver

  5. #5
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northern Rockies
    I started to keep a spare oversized hand for K and N, rear sight blade and the small front screw for the rear sight, a couple sideplate screws, a mainspring, thumbpiece (cylinder release) nut, and I guess thats about it for basics.

    Over time I expanded on the parts, partly from liking messing with them and partly from the simple desire to have stuff on hand instead of having to wait for parts if something got lost or broken. Ive kept my eyes open and grabbed various parts if I found them cheap. Its turned out that oversize hands for the older guns arent easy to get from Smith now, though theres parts from used guns around, and Power Custom has oversized hands and cylinder locking bolts. I dont know what size theirs are. Getting an oversized hand from Smith was somewhat of a gamble, you didnt know what the exact size would be. They made various thicknesses of them, and I think the factory just tried various ones to get them right or close for minimal fitting. Ive accumulated a few various sizes and have no concerns at all about being able to make mine run through the rest of my life.

    In all, Ive cracked one rear sight blade from dropping the gun on a steel channel truck bumper, lost one thumbpiece nut, and had one mainspring break. Ive had a couple-three or so hands need replacing to correct timing. After paying someone else to do it I just started doing it myself. Its not that complicated.

    If you have a Smith that isnt carrying up correctly, measure the hand thickness and try to get a hand thats .002-.003" thicker. Ive seen hands from .089 to .099 with one or two outside that range on each end. They are pretty hard and take a long time to stone down when much oversize. At least it takes a long time with the fine ceramic stone I have. Its the thickness (side to side dimension) that makes the final part of cylinder movement, and is the dimension that will correct a cylinder not coming all the way into time.

    Keep in mind, even if you cant replace the parts, having some basics on hand can reduce the lag time to get your gun going, as whoever works on it wont have to search for and wait for parts.

    Ive kept basic small spare parts for the guns I use most in a small pocket size clear plastic tackle box thing and throw it in my road gear when traveling. Ive never needed it, but like the feeling of having the basics covered.
    Last edited by Malamute; 04-16-2021 at 09:12 AM.
    “Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
    ― Theodore Roosevelt

  6. #6
    Having several model 10's and how difficult locating correct parts can be when my 10-6 refused to operate it became a parts donor revolver for the rest. Initially was going to send it out after my attempts with Numrich replacement parts failed, decided the investment just wasn't worth it. Not sure if this a proper way of keeping spare parts on hand even with the current inflated prices good working model 10's can be purchased and that was sticking point on not moving forward for repairs. But this thread has me thinking maybe it is time to purchase some J-frame parts.

  7. #7
    Site Supporter Rex G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    SE Texas
    Quote Originally Posted by awp_101 View Post
    It’s not uncommon to see discussions on what spares to keep on hand for pistols and ARs, what about revolvers?

    I know most parts will need to be fitted, there are nomenclature differences between brands and it’s just not as easy to change parts as it is on a pistol. What sort of guidelines did departments use when they were revolver-centric?
    Several of the officers assigned to Houston PD Firearms Training have been armorers, for the various brands of weapons. I have no information regarding the parts they kept/keep on hand. The S&W armorer I knew was not very personable.

    I never considered myself qualified to fit parts to S&W revolvers. I have detail-stripped S&W revolvers, but, Lord knows, I hate doing it. I do believe in keeping spare side plate screws and mainsprings. Leaf-style S&W K/L/N mainsprings DO break! Notably, however, the side plate screw that retains the cylinder assembly can require fitting. I had negative luck installing a new DAO NYPD hammer in a Model 64-3. It ain’t “drop-in.”

    I never considered myself qualified to fit parts to Ruger revolvers, either, but Rugers seem to last forever. Mine have outlasted my right hand, and may well outlast my left hand. I do keep a spare SP101 transfer bar, as that is a potential wear part, that does not require fitting. I have had mixed luck swapping hammers, in DA Sixes. I had good luck dropping a take-out spurless SP101 hammer into a spur-hammer 3” weapon.

    I kept spare duty revolvers, when I could afford to acquire them. After settling upon my S&W Model 58, .41 Mag, as a long-term duty handgun, I added a second Model 58, and later a Model 657. In 1990, I transitioned to a 1911 duty pistol, and then a SIG P220 in 1991, but my reserve would have been to either fall-back to the Model 58, or, use a GP100 after I bought it, in in the early Nineties. The GP100 was elevated to primary duty handgun in 1993. I had a Colt Stainless Python, too, during that time, and when my GP100 was at the Firearms Examiner, for a few weeks, after a line-of-duty shooting, the Python rode in my duty rig, as Safariland made one 070 holster to fit both the GP100 and Python. To lighten the load, on the duty belt, I bought a pair of K-Frames, Models 19 and 66, about 1995 or so. (Notably, the Safariland 070 holster, itself, made to fit the GP100 and Python, was notably heavier than the 070 made to fit K-Frames. I was required to use the 070, as a duty holster, during that time.)
    Retar’d LE. Kinesthetic dufus.

    Don’t tread on volcanos!

  8. #8
    Member Hizzie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Texas
    Yeah. Keep duplicate guns in the safe.
    Quote Originally Posted by caleb View Post
    Oh man, that's right. I forgot that some people feel like they need light SA triggers in DA guns instead of just learning to shoot the gun better. You can get a Redhawk DA trigger pull down to 10 lbs, and if you can't manage that you suck and should probably just practice more.
    *RS Regulate Affiliate*

  9. #9
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Gotham Adjacent
    Springs:
    Mainspring
    Trigger Return Spring
    Ejector Rod Spring

    Screws:

    Side plate (Colt and Smith)
    Main Spring Strain Screw (Smith)
    Cylinder Release Screw (Smith)
    Grip Screw (Colt and Smith)
    Cylinder Yoke Retention Screw* (Colt and Smith)

    *As @Rex G mentioned the cylinder yoke retention screw may need to be fitted. If you have time, pre-fitting one and tossing it in your spare parts box would be a great idea.

    Other Spares:

    Cylinder release for Smith
    Spare Hammer Mounted Firing Pins and roll pins to retain them (Colts and Smiths
    Roll pins for front side blades
    Rear sight blade and screw for adjustable sights
    Ejector Rod

    --

    I would view screws, springs, and spare hammer mounted firing pins (if the gun is so equipped) as the spares to keep on hand. Or buy a Ruger and never need to do anything?

    Kidding springs and sight pieces (and pins) aren't a bad idea for a Ruger.

  10. #10
    Site Supporter Totem Polar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    PacNW
    Quote Originally Posted by Hizzie View Post
    Yeah. Keep duplicate guns in the safe.
    This. I’ve been shooting revolvers since the 70s, and owning them since the tail end of the 80s. I have 2 or 3 or 4 of anything that I consider important.

    That said, I also have a small box of springs from wolff and wilson, as well as a hammer and a cylinder release latch or two. That’s about it.

    The whole point of revolvers is not to have to mess with them, beyond keeping them clean enough to close and rotate. JMO.

    Oh, and sights for Rugers. I have a few of those around. Especially front sights.
    ”But in the end all of these ideas just manufacture new criminals when the problem isn't a lack of criminals.” -JRB

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •