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Thread: Info on thread locker, torque specs

  1. #11
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
    Quote Originally Posted by stomridertx View Post
    I think there was another thread also where blue Loctite was emerging as the winner here. I've never used Vibratite, but blue Loctite 242 has never failed me on scope mounts or my MOS plate mounted RDS. I'm about to go to the CHPWS plate. One thing I did do that may or may not be a necessity is replace the screws that came with the MOS plate package with McMaster-Carr Torx screws. So much is depending on the strength of the fasteners themselves that I felt better knowing exactly where they were sourced and what the specs are. I do torque to spec with a FAT wrench and I believe I used 15 inch lbs.
    If you are going with the V4 Defender all-polymer plate, don't do what I did: I did not connect the dots on the "Special" instructions for the polymer plate. You are specifically directed NOT to torque to spec (in lbs) for this plate. I was all set with my slide and had the (wrong) instructions up on the screen, direct from CHPWS. I proceeded to set my Wheeler to the specified amount (for non-polymer plates) and promptly drove the screws all the way into the plate, deforming the chamfer completely. Thus completely blowing $70 down the drain. My bad.

    After this experience, I ordered a steel Forward Controls plate, and have been completely satisfied with it.

  2. #12
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    Dec 2011
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    Dunedin, FL, USA
    I like Loctite 243 because it works on plated metals and in the presence of lubricants. It cures better in higher temperatures and without using the curing accelerator.

  3. #13
    Site Supporter stomridertx's Avatar
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    Oct 2018
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    Lubbock, TX
    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    If you are going with the V4 Defender all-polymer plate, don't do what I did: I did not connect the dots on the "Special" instructions for the polymer plate. You are specifically directed NOT to torque to spec (in lbs) for this plate. I was all set with my slide and had the (wrong) instructions up on the screen, direct from CHPWS. I proceeded to set my Wheeler to the specified amount (for non-polymer plates) and promptly drove the screws all the way into the plate, deforming the chamfer completely. Thus completely blowing $70 down the drain. My bad.

    After this experience, I ordered a steel Forward Controls plate, and have been completely satisfied with it.
    Good to know. I'm actually going with what they call the Mil/LEO aluminum plate for the RMR, because I'm evaluating the the Swampfox Liberty and want to get out of the stock MOS plate sooner than later regardless of which optic finds it's permanent home on there.

  4. #14
    Site Supporter stomridertx's Avatar
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    Oct 2018
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    Lubbock, TX
    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    We have been around this bush before:

    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....ght=vibra-tite
    It was actually nice to revisit that thread and read comments I haven't seen yet. I want to try the blue stick Loctite 248 now as it looks a lot easier to work with on firearms and scopes.

  5. #15
    I believe that in a You-Tube Video, CHWPS recommends 10in lbs of torgue, if using their plates. I have X3 plates and that is what I use with blue loctite and no issues so far.

  6. #16
    I have been using the purple loctite for 25 years. It has always worked as advertised and I have never had a problem.

    I use on my Glock's front sight screw and on my RMR related hardware.

  7. #17
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Mar 2015
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    "carbine-infested rural (and suburban) areas"
    I have purple, blue, red and green (290 wicking, not the sleeve compound) on my bench and use them all as called for.

    One thing to be mindful of is that Loctite can cause many polymers to crack/fracture, so be careful using it around them.
    .
    -----------------------------------------
    Not another dime.

  8. #18
    Here we go again. There is one answer, and it is simple.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  9. #19
    Member SoCalDep's Avatar
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    Mar 2016
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    The Secret City in Tennessee
    Quote Originally Posted by Archer1440 View Post
    Here we go again. There is one answer, and it is simple.
    Preach!

    i may know a little about high round counts and heat. I may have supervised 1,985 rounds fired through an optic-equipped pistol in 25 minutes. I have seen VC-3 be successful in a 10,000 round test. I won’t use it on any of my guns or any gun on which I mount an optic for my guys. Loctite 248 is the way.

    There is a lot of voodoo and a lack of understanding of threaded fastener engineering going into pistol optics right now in many circles. I have learned a lot from this forum and in consultation with smart people and from what I’ve seen with VC-3, if not applied perfectly it has the opposite effect under slide reciprocation than intended. Loctite is better and 248 allows the right amount to be placed in the right spot. I use it on my (and my Department’s) 6-32, M3, and 4-40 screws on a lot of guns with a lot of optics and have had few issues compared to the VC-3.

  10. #20
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    Mar 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    @farscott, I'd be interested in your thoughts. I contacted Henkel directly and asked for guidance on small screw applications such as pistol optics. I never got a reply. Using their decision tree, it seems that for fasteners below 1/4" (6mm), they only recommend purple/low strength. I've never heard of anyone using purple, just blue.

    Any thoughts on purple vs. blue?

    Attachment 69586

    Based on threads like this one, and the one I quoted, I just have been using blue/medium strength; no issues so far. So for me, it's kind of an academic question, but I am curious what you think.
    I use blue loctite as a thread locker except Glock front sight posts given the amount of heat they are exposed to.
    God Bless,

    Brandon

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