“Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
― Theodore Roosevelt
It basically goes like this:
The higher the carbon content, the harder the steel can be. The harder a given steel is the lower the ductility of that steel is.
Guns, particularly repeating guns, firing smokeless powder cartridges, have a lot of different kinds of force acting in them. Friction, heat, high pressure, vibration, reverberation, and repetitive impacts. Optimizing the materials and heat treatment used for a given operating parameter is how it should be, and is, done.
The French and Germans specifying different steels for different parts of the gun and often (but not always) through harden each part to its own specific range of hardness, such that the guns withstand impacts and have tight tolerances.
Smith moved the opposite direction and has opted to pare down the number of steels used in their guns and case harden many parts. The advantage is they can specify a wider range of tolerances, but case hardening allows the underlying steel to remain more ductile, reducing wear and breakage. The guns have wider tolerances overall, but continue running well, due to the specifications of those tolerances (it's also way easier to do batching of case hardening than through hardening).
I would argue that folks who fire tens of thousands of rounds per year at rapid intervals are pushing the boundaries of the design parameters of most revolvers. But they are certainly pushing the boundaries of the current iterations of Smith and Wesson and Colts. And probably most Rugers too.
Frankly, given the ability to buy an 8-shot Nighthawk-imported Korth, I'd really like to have one of those along side my theoretical stable of a Super GP100 and 627 and hammer on them all until I broke each of them.
Anyone want to finance my scientific endeavor?
Shoulder holsters were one of my main carry methods up until sometime in 2004. Although I rarely use them today, everyone should own one. When my wife's brother was married, I was the best man, and had to wear a tuxedo. With no belt, a shoulder holster became the ideal solution.
With horizontal shoulder holsters, the thumb break is positioned much more conveniently with a revolver than it is with a semiauto. Also, at least in the case of a Galco Miami classic, the harness straps attach to revolver holsters in a manner that contributes to good concealment more so than with semiauto holsters. The increased likelihood of crossing my own arm during a draw, as well as sweeping through a 180 degree arc makes a DA revolver trigger desirable.
Unfortunately speedloader pouches are much less comfortable under the armpit than magazine pouches. Dump pouches are good for holding speed strips, and are much more comfortable under the armpit. Speedloaders can go in a jacket pocket.
Last edited by BillSWPA; 03-27-2021 at 10:22 PM.
Any legal information I may post is general information, and is not legal advice. Such information may or may not apply to your specific situation. I am not your attorney unless an attorney-client relationship is separately and privately established.
"Toughness" vs "hardness," so to speak. When I was young, my eyes automatically glazed over whenever Fudds would go on and on (and on) about the "low-numbered" M1903 rifles, so I didn't "get" the difference for some years.
My rattletrap SP101 has beat-up cylinder lock notches (despite the fact that I am no fast DA shooter... or a genuinely fast shooter, period), but the peening appeared to have gone into remission some time ago. I consider that cylinder "soft" in some respects, but still "tough." In contrast, we have had revolver parts that were apparently harder than hell - very little visible wear - fracture on us because they were brittle, not tough. Metallurgy in firearms is quite the balancing act.
If I knew 100% that I would never get a revolver wet, neglect to clean it, leave it in a holster or drawer too long or occasionally play the role of clueless bonehead, I'd probably pass on stainless and put the savings toward another cup of coffee or piece of pie. As it is, stainless still generally gets the nod even though I don't obsess over it like I did in years past.
But don't get me started on aluminum.
gn
"On the internet, nobody knows if you are a dog... or even a cat."
Since the thread title is “ultimate long term durability revolver” I will just leave this link here.
All you MoFos who are pining for a GP snub with real sights and a good trigger are welcome.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/896038346
”But in the end all of these ideas just manufacture new criminals when the problem isn't a lack of criminals.” -JRB
Good point. I have a Bianchi Tuxedo nylon shoulder holster that has a very comfortable double speedloader pouch on the opposite side. I stopped using it the first time my hammer spur snagged on the retention strap. Assuming harness/pouch compatibility, that pouch on a Miami Classic holster would be a nice combination that perhaps I should try.
No offense to Ruger fans but I'm having a hard time seeing how a GP100 is worth $1500, let alone the "buy it now" price of $1700.
Really? What am I missing?
Dave