Ultimate long term durability revolver

[Zeke38]

There are a few of these around. This one fills the bill for me. Ruger made a run of these in 357 and 38. I purchased a 38 and had Clements hog it out to 357 as the same steel and heat treatment is used in both calibers. Little heavy but I use a 38/44 level load for town and country.

[Crow Hunter]

Pretty much "yes", and I'm a S&W girl.

If I had to have one handgun and only one, a 3" or 4" GP.100 would be my first choice (686 second, 66-8 third), A 3" is better for appendix carry. I can do a 4", but it's a little bit pokey. 4" is better if you're going to shoot a lot of magnums because the longer tube extracts more of the work.

I have a 66-8 4.25" now and while I love the trigger and accuracy, I will only be able to carry it at 4-5:00 with a fairly steep cant. Which, I guess isn't that bad, but I would like to get something that I could carry anywhere on the belt that was also extremely durable.

So, based on my reading it appeared that the GP100 was the most durable after the Manhurin/Korth option.

I also noted that most people felt that fixed sights were better for carry than adjustable (ie M64).

So combining that gave me a leap of logic to the 1715.

[Crow Hunter]

Im still trying to shake apart my M66.

Any of the .38 k frames would work too. A m64 might be the easiest solution if you dont need the magnums.

I am still looking for a 66-8 2.75 that doesn't have a 20# trigger. The one I had was terrible, my 63-5 trigger was 1/3 as light.

I was just thinking if I was going to buy something else anyway, go with the most durable revolver.

I have only ever owned Smith revolvers and I have never shot one out of time but the conventional wisdom is that the Rugers are more durable.

Having watched videos of cleaning/field stripping of the GP/SP series, I can definitely see the benefits of their subassemblies versus the Smith lockwork.

[Wheeler]

Arguing about how durable a Ruger is over a S&W is roughly akin to arguing over how many angels can dance on the head of a pin.

This M&P was made back when you could buy the .38 Special cartridges loaded in the tried and proven black powder or that new smokeless powder stuff. According to Mr Jinks it was made between 1916 and 1919. It seems revolver production was interrupted due to that big European war we sent good American boys to die in. I’d have to pay for the letter to have it researched further.

Find something you like, shoot the crap out of it and maintain it well. It will outlast you and probably your progeny too.

[03RN]

I am still looking for a 66-8 2.75 that doesn't have a 20# trigger. The one I had was terrible, my 63-5 trigger was 1/3 as light.

I was just thinking if I was going to buy something else anyway, go with the most durable revolver.

I have only ever owned Smith revolvers and I have never shot one out of time but the conventional wisdom is that the Rugers are more durable.

Having watched videos of cleaning/field stripping of the GP/SP series, I can definitely see the benefits of their subassemblies versus the Smith lockwork.

Definitely the luck of the draw when it comes to triggers. Mines 8/3lbs with oem springs.

I had a redhawk. It was ok. Mediocre all around except weight. Which was above average Had some weird fail to fire issues as well.

I have a 66-8 4.25" now and while I love the trigger and accuracy, I will only be able to carry it at 4-5:00 with a fairly steep cant. Which, I guess isn't that bad, but I would like to get something that I could carry anywhere on the belt that was also extremely durable.

I carried my 4" m19 aiwb for a year before I picked up my m66. I do prefer the shorter holster but a 4" gun is not that bad and Id rather deal with a thinner longer gun than a shorter fatter gun.

4oclock in a nice vm2 style holster is even less of an issue. So much so that I carry my shorter guns in it when I want to carry back there and have no intention of getting another holster.

[03RN]

Double tap

[RevolverRob]

Ruger released the GP100 in 44 special. S&W released the L Frame in 44 mag. There is a reason why Ruger did not chamber the GP100 in 44 mag.

GP100 the most durable gun, my rear-end. Shoot 44mag level pressure ammo in a GP100 and you’re going to lose fingers.

This is a silly argument.

Go load some of these in a Model 69 and see if you keep your fingers: https://www.buffalobore.com/index.ph...ct_detail&p=54

Arguing that a gun is less "durable" because it blows up when used beyond it's operating limits is like arguing a bulldozer is bad at being a bulldozer because it can't carry you down the road at 80mph.

A properly assembled, stock, GP100 in .357 Magnum is the most durable revolver anyone can buy for less than a grand. Unless they luck into an MR73.

[OlongJohnson]

Iowegian over on Rugerforum.net is pretty realistic. Has both. Retired gunsmith who worked on both for decades with agency contracts. Clearly explains that GP will go the distance far past an L frame, and the technical reasons why a GP stays in time longer. The difference becomes even greater when the percentage of .357 rounds fired increases.

[jetfire]

When you say "durable" do you mean "withstand a high round count with minimal/no parts breakages" or do you mean "banged around in a holster/tackle box/glove box/holster shot maybe 150 rounds a year?"

[Rex G]

If you were going to pick up the ultimate long term durability revolver that is reasonably easy to find and reasonably priced, would the group suggest something like the GP-100 3" 1715?

Am I going down the wrong path?

1. I am not the “group,” but as an individual owner, of GP100 revolvers since the very early Nineties, I would say “yes.”

2. No, a GP100 is not the wrong path. There are other valid paths, but a GP100 is not a wrong path. The GP100 is a superbly valid path.

If I could own only one firearm, it would be a 6” GP100.

If I could own only one handgun, but could own long guns, the handgun would be a 4” GP100. This would be true, I believe, even if I did not use a 4” GP100 during a deadly force incident, in 1993. I had dressed-around 4” revolvers, before that happened.

I am glad that I can own my 3”, 4”, and 6” GP100 revolvers. I am not anti-S&W. I have them, too.

AIWB is realistic, with a 3” GP100. I have AIWB’ed a 4” GP100, but, it might not work with as many trousers, in as many circumstances, as a 3” gun.

If possible, hand-select your GP100. Some have rougher actions than others. The one time I did not hand-select, I regretted it.