I have been noticing a spongy/hitching trigger pull on my new 3" M10. It's on one chamber and Ive been trying to figure it out as its not 100% of the time. Maybe 1/3 of the time which is really kinda annoying.
Today I noticed the ejector rod isnt straight. If I open the cylinder and spin it it is easily noticable. Kinda weird it doesn't happen all the time though.
I am thinking that a thin piece of pipe slid over the rod and bent in the right direction is my best bet.
Any tips?
Ive had it happen a time or two, I decided the simplest solution was to get a new rod. They dont cost much.
One clue is the wear on the rod is uneven. If you spin the cylinder with it swung out of the frame and watch the rod you can see it if its out of true. Check for burrs in the end of the rod also.
Last edited by Malamute; 03-10-2021 at 08:33 PM.
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+1, on a K frame it is, in normal times, not an expensive or difficult to find item, I have not checked latelyOriginally Posted by Malamute
two piece assembly, inner and outer
Old Colts are sometimes a different story.
The Power Tool for managing those is one of what I consider revolver enthusiast essentials...
Brownells makes their version but you have to have two different ones for all sizes of S&W, whereas the Power Custom version works with all sizes Smith and Colt
Last edited by fatdog; 03-10-2021 at 09:53 PM.
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Best to get a new one, but you can roll it on a flat surface and tap it straight with a small brass hammer.
Yes, this tool is worth the $35.
Rolling it around on a table and whacking it with a hammer or bending it in a pipe will just have you chasing your tail. Ron Power also sells an expensive fixture for correctly straightening the rod, but it is expensive and the replacement part isn't
You've got a fair bit of custom work in that model 10, IIRC. Fix it right. Throw the bent rod in the trash.
edit: I'm an idiot. Link to midway was for an N-frame. Looks like everyone's out of stock for the blued part. You might buy a stainless rod for $10 as a temporary measure.
Last edited by jh9; 03-11-2021 at 09:41 AM.
They are also good about cracking in the threaded portion inside the cylinder which will cause runout. Definitely get the Power jig to properly tighten it and dont over torque it. It is very easy to crack them when tightening and that jig helps a lot. I ALWAYS run a dab of BLUE Locktite on mine.
You will be if you don't have the capacity to discern between "tapping" and "wacking".
I am assuming 03RN does know the difference.
The rod will dent with rough handling. Find a replacement before monkeying with it. The drag you are feeling may be caused by yoke that is mis-aligned. I suggest disassembling the cylinder and cleaning. Upon reassembly you may notice improvement. I urge you to live with it until you can locate a competent armorer.
I third or fourth or whatever the recommendation to just buy a new one. It's a finicky enough fix that your life will be made easier if you just replace it.
I don't care how genteel you are with a hammer. The mk1 eyeball doesn't measure down to a thousandth of an inch like the recommended dial indicator does for the correct fixture.You will be if you don't have the capacity to discern between "tapping" and "wacking".
You will not eyeball it back into true. Getting "close" on a custom job, for a ten dollar replacement part, is penny wise and pound foolish.
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