S&W Model 10 K Frame Help

[Jay585]

My girlfriend's step father is offering to sell me a 4" S&W Model 10-8 with Trausch grips. I didn't get to spend a lot of time inspecting it as the kids were running around eager to leave.

He's asking $350 and would throw in 2 boxes of reloads. The grips look very similar (if not identical) to these: https://www.armslist.com/posts/11201...-grips-k-frame Finish is extremely worn, especially on the right side of the frame behind the cylinder (no bluing and scratched up). Trigger felt great and the crown seemed OK. Cylinder gap seemed tight and there wasn't any rotation after lock up.

Barrel had (IIRC) Redmond, WV on the top.

Any thoughts, and what should I inspect more closely next time I'm over?

[HCM]

My girlfriend's step father is offering to sell me a 4" S&W Model 10-8 with Trausch grips. I didn't get to spend a lot of time inspecting it as the kids were running around eager to leave.

He's asking $350 and would throw in 2 boxes of reloads. The grips look very similar (if not identical) to these: https://www.armslist.com/posts/11201...-grips-k-frame Finish is extremely worn, especially on the right side of the frame behind the cylinder (no bluing and scratched up). Trigger felt great and the crown seemed OK. Cylinder gap seemed tight and there wasn't any rotation after lock up.

Barrel had (IIRC) Redmond, WV on the top.

Any thoughts, and what should I inspect more closely next time I'm over?

Sounds like one of the recently imported French police guns. Price is a little high even in the current market. I'd offer $250 and meet him in the middle at $300. You could always sell the grips and / or the reloads.

[03RN]

Are they decent reloads? Do you have .38?

.38s are hard to find

$350 is ok

[Wheeler]

My girlfriend's step father is offering to sell me a 4" S&W Model 10-8 with Trausch grips. I didn't get to spend a lot of time inspecting it as the kids were running around eager to leave.

He's asking $350 and would throw in 2 boxes of reloads. The grips look very similar (if not identical) to these: https://www.armslist.com/posts/11201...-grips-k-frame Finish is extremely worn, especially on the right side of the frame behind the cylinder (no bluing and scratched up). Trigger felt great and the crown seemed OK. Cylinder gap seemed tight and there wasn't any rotation after lock up.

Barrel had (IIRC) Redmond, WV on the top.

Any thoughts, and what should I inspect more closely next time I'm over?

Things I check when looking to buy a S&W revolver.

1. Overall Aesthetic Condition.
What is the physical condition of the finish, the sights, the cylinder, hammer, and trigger. What type of stocks and how beat up are they?

2. Yoke-to-Frame gap.
This is a good indication of potential timing issues caused by a bent Yoke. If there is an uneven gap there is a good chance of issues. This is usually caused
by people doing the "Hollywood Snap' method of closing the cylinder or by competition shooters closing the
cylinder too hard.

3. Trigger function.
I'm not concerned about trigger press weight unless it is extremely light. I'm checking for hard spots, gritiness, and to make sure the trigger and hammer
are working in concert during the single action and double action trigger presses. Look at the condition of the hammer nose and firing pin. If the trigger press weight is extremely
light in double action I like to see how tight the Strain Screw is.

4. Lockup.
Test this by hand cocking the hammer and decking for rotational cylinder movement after the hammer is locked to the rear. Some minor play
is acceptable.

5. End shake.
This is tough for a lot of folks to check without tools. In this case you're looking for gross discrepancies rather than fine tuning. The cylinder needs to be able
to move forwards and backwards however, that movement should be minimal, especially when the hammer is fully cocked.

6. Timing.
Another tough test without tools however, you can look down the muzzle with the cylinder close and backlight with a flashlight. if you see any portion of the
cylinder face there is a timing issue. You will of course need to verify the pistol is unloaded.

7. Take a good, hard look at the Forcing Cone and the Top Strap. There will always be some flame gutting on the Top Strap just behind the Forcing Cone. It
should never be more than a slight etching with a .38 Special. Look for cracks or chips in the Forcing Cone.

8. Verify the cylinder spins freely. if it binds the ejector rod could be loose or even bent. It could also be an indication of trash in the channel. With the gun
unloaded and the cylinder closed and latched, pull the hammer back halfway and see if the cylinder spins freely. This will help determine if there is a
possibility of endshake, a bent Yoke, or a loose Ejector Rod. It could also be an indication of trash under the Ejector Star.

9. Take a close look down the barrel, again after making sure the gun is unloaded. Look for signs of pitting and for the appearance of a ring inside the barrel.
The ring is usually an indication of a bulged barrel. The outside of the barrel may not show an indication. Look in the chambers for pitting or scarring.
Verify the cylinder face is flat.

10. Take a look at the muzzle and crown. Older S&W revolver barrels were cast and don't have a machined crown like the newer offerings. Look for dents
and dings.

11. Make sure the front sight blade is vertical and not canted. Look at the frame where the barrel screws in for cracks. I've never seen a steel framed S&W
cracked there but still like to check.

My usually rule of thumb is that any Hand Ejector made after WW2 in good mechanical condition and decent aesthetic condition is worth $300 and go from there.

I hope this helps.

PS, should you acquire it and decide you don't want those Trausch stocks, I'll gladly take them off your hands.

[SD]

Inquiring minds want to know did ya pull the trigger and get it?

[Jay585]

Inquiring minds want to know did ya pull the trigger and get it?

Not yet, this weekend most likely. I'll put up pics when I have it.

[Jay585]

Got it and took it to the range. It's interesting how it seems to impact the target in different areas with different ammo.

[Lex Luthier]

Congrats!

A pinned & rebated Model 10* that shoots like that for the price you paid is a hell of a bargain these days.

It seems to like the loads you used in the lower two pics a lot.


*rebated cylinders were discontinued in 1981; pinned barrels in 1982.

[03RN]

Congrats!

A pinned & rebated Model 10* that shoots like that for the price you paid is a hell of a bargain these days.

It seems to like the loads you used in the lower two pics a lot.


*rebated cylinders were discontinued in 1981; pinned barrels in 1982.

.38s werent recessed

[Lex Luthier]

.38s werent recessed

Uff Da, you're right!