Primers for revolvers???

[jtcarm]

What standard primers do you run in your wheelies? Non-magnum.

Shortly before the Covid panic hit, an LGS had a close out on Remington 5 1/2 small pistol primers.

I left with tens of thousands.

Now I know why they were on closeout: these have to be the hardest damn primers ever. Even with full-strength mainsprings, they average about 5% FTGB (failure to go bang) the first time around. Usually a second blow ignites them.

Yes, they’re being seated to correct depth. They’re the only primers that have this issue. Winchester, Federal, CCIs, & REM 1 1/2 all pop fine, even in guns with reduced power mainsprings that aren’t competion grade.

This is my primary primer supply for feeding my .38/.357 revos. The only bottem-feeders I load for are .45 ACPs.

Thinking of selling them and stocking up on something else.

[Outpost75]

The Remington 5-1/2 is the factory primer for.357 and 9mm +P. Colt, Ruger and S&W police and military service revolvers with stock factory actions producing a minimum 0.010" indent on copper using the government gage holder, having 0.028-0.032" driven protrusion, end shake not over 0.002" and cylinder head clearance not over 0.065" should set them off 100%.

DA0 revolvers having bobbed hammers or reduced hammer arc, coil spring J-frames and others having after market springs to reduce DA trigger pull will have issues.

[revchuck38]

I've been running Federal 100s and 200s and am currently using Winchester WSPs. They work in all my revolvers, including those with carry (not competition) action jobs. I've used Federal 150s, whichever Remington primer is their standard large pistol, and Winchester WLPs with no problems in cartridges that take large pistol primers.

I've got a brick of Fiocchi small pistol primers which I haven't used yet, they're slated for my 9x19 auto loads.

[Outpost75]

My 1985 Ruger Speed Six DAO (armorer's school.gun) reliably sets off Remington. 5-1/2 and Federal 200 small pistol magnum and Remington 6-1/2 and CCI500 small rifle. Copper indent is 0.012"

[camsdaddy]

All of my revolvers are fed from a Lee Pro1000. I only use CCI with it due to being told to only use those and Remington with the press. I think I have some rem but have never used them. I was having light strikes with my 65 the other day with rounds my j frame would fire. I cake home and replaced the spring and hope issue is resolved.

[john c]

I also bought Remington 5 1/2 primers. I was told they were for .30 carbine loads, which are more pressure than pistol cartridges (40,000 psi), but lower than .223 (55,000 psi). I used them in 9mm loads shot in my stock pistols with no failures.

As usual, Outpost75's information is spot on. I never would have considered the issue of end shake in setting primers off, but it makes total sense.

Unless you want to trade for small primer .45 acp brass, selling them is probably the best option.

[Crazy Dane]

I have used a few hundred of 5 1/2s and ran them through my Rugers and Pythons with no issue. The Rugers, GP100 and SP101 have reduced power springs.
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As for the primers this is from their description; The Remington 5-1/2 Small Pistol Primer has a slightly thicker cup than the 1-1/2 Primer and is rated for magnum pressures

[SwampDweller]

The Remington 5-1/2 is the factory primer for.357 and 9mm +P. Colt, Ruger and S&W police and military service revolvers with stock factory actions producing a minimum 0.010" indent on copper using the government gage holder, having 0.028-0.032" driven protrusion, end shake not over 0.002" and cylinder head clearance not over 0.065" should set them off 100%.

DA0 revolvers having bobbed hammers or reduced hammer arc, coil spring J-frames and others having after market springs to reduce DA trigger pull will have issues.

This makes me wonder if I should reconsider sending my GP100 off to Gemini Custom for their action work, which includes bobbing the hammer and aftermarket spring (though he said he’d include heavier springs in case I need them). I shoot a lot of Remington 158gr SJHP .357 Mag as well as Remington 125gr JSP.

My primary reason to send the GP100 off isn’t because I want a smoother action or anything, it’s purely because in my thinking, having a custom Ruger smith go through the gun with a fine toothed comb could correct any potential QC deficiencies that may be present in the revolver from the factory, as I’ve had a couple of defective GP100s in a row recently. However, the new one I have ready to send off has over 500 rounds through it without any issues with much of that being .357 (it did have one Armscor .357 round fail to go off on the first trigger pull, but that was on round #34 and it hasn’t done it since).

Should I send it off?

[Outpost75]

This makes me wonder if I should reconsider sending my GP100 off to Gemini Custom for their action work, which includes bobbing the hammer and aftermarket spring (though he said he’d include heavier springs in case I need them). I shoot a lot of Remington 158gr SJHP .357 Mag as well as Remington 125gr JSP.

My primary reason to send the GP100 off isn’t because I want a smoother action or anything, it’s purely because in my thinking, having a custom Ruger smith go through the gun with a fine toothed comb could correct any potential QC deficiencies that may be present in the revolver from the factory, as I’ve had a couple of defective GP100s in a row recently. However, the new one I have ready to send off has over 500 rounds through it without any issues with much of that being .357 (it did have one Armscor .357 round fail to go off on the first trigger pull, but that was on round #34 and it hasn’t done it since).

Should I send it off?

I would not unless they are equipped to measure copper indent to FLETC standard and guarantee 0.011" minimum on a .357

[SwampDweller]

I would not unless they are equipped to measure copper indent to FLETC standard and guarantee 0.011" minimum on a .357

It’s Gemini Custom, if you know who they are? Do y’all think they’re good to go or should I just keep it as it is?