How can I “pretty up” a trade-in 64?

[Brian T]

I have had a love affair with the Model 64 since I was a kid, because Dallas PD issued them. Hall Street Shootut by Dallas PD Captain E.R. Walt (Ret) dives into this. Both his books should be mandatory reading here.


Here's what I plan on doing to my two S&W 64-6 RBs, and what I will send them off for

I will:

Chamfer the charge holes

Apex Evolution DAO trigger

Swap out an older factory trigger that I will round off

Older stainless cylinder release, unless I can find a second stainless Ed Brown cylinder release (yeah, right)

Glass bead blast the guns (they are icky)

Cerakote the rear sight ledge and trough flat black

VZ 320 grips, black, not sure if finger grooves or plan. Maybe one of each.


Karl Sokol will:

Chop & crown the barrel to 3"

Dovetail and install 1911 front sight I will supply (Warren FO .115)

Stipple the backstrap

Stipple a portion of the side plate (I am left handed and shoot slightly thumbs forward, I shall embrace your hates)

[Brian T]

Sorry

[HeavyDuty]

Cerakote the rear sight ledge and trough flat black

Can that be done with a brush? I’ve never had much long term luck with flat model enamel no matter how much surface prep I do, and even after baking under a IR lamp.

[Trooper224]

Grey scotchbrite will give a good satin finish, just be sure to use oil as well. Don't do it dry. The sword and dagger in my avatar are an example of the result.

[TGS]

I have a police trade in 64 that I’d like to dress up a bit.

Beware that truly polishing something that started out matte may affect future value, or interest from potential purchasers.

Yes, definitely something to note. As someone that has found two retired revolvers from my agency which had been modified (one gold nitrided, the other polished mirror bright), I think it behooves us to ensure there's no way to trace retired police guns back to a specific agency such as department markings, specific SKUs, serial numbers, etc before modifying the finish and ruining a piece of history. If you're going to alter it from the original finish type, might be worth it to letter the gun from Jinks and make sure know what you've got before doing something irreversible.

[LtDave]

If you want to touchup to match the original brushed stainless finish on the older S&W's, this is what you want:

3M Trizact 3000 grit sandpaper.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-03064-Triz...s%2C206&sr=8-6

It results in an almost exact match. I've also used it on a Freedom Arms .454 with excellent results. They also have a 5000 grit, but I haven't used it.

If you want your gun shiny, then Simichrome, a cotton cloth and some elbow grease will do the trick. Don't use power equipment.

[Brian T]

Can that be done with a brush? I’ve never had much long term luck with flat model enamel no matter how much surface prep I do, and even after baking under a IR lamp.

I dunno, but I have seen the guys at Infinity Finishes do very fine detail work with their brushes.

[dogcaller]

Many thanks to all for the suggestions! I’m really just trying to take the scuz off and get back to a clean matte brushed finish. Certainly nothing bright or “polished.”

While I appreciate the warning, I’m not sure what Jinks is, and I’m not trying to change the fundamental character of the piece—more like restoring it to a better, previous state. If this fails, I may eventually have it bead blasted, though that would be going deeper into the well than expected or desired.

[Wondering Beard]

I’m not sure what Jinks is,

He is referring to Roy Jinks, Smith and Wesson historian, who can provide you with a letter of authenticity for your gun.

[Oldherkpilot]

Stipple a portion of the side plate (I am left handed and shoot slightly thumbs forward, I shall embrace your hates)

Thumb prints are overrated anyway!😁 Thanks for the book tip, I'll check your guy out.