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Thread: Does a K frame "disappear"?

  1. #61
    Site Supporter HeavyDuty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy45 View Post
    Thank you sir! To wrap this thread up I snagged a 2" K6 CT today at the lgs. 3" would have been my first choice but right now it doesn't seem like being choosy is an option. It feels great and is amazingly slim for a 6 shooter, I can't wait to get out and put some dlsome doings through it.

    Thanks everyone for the help and input!

    Jeremy
    I’m really liking my 3” DAO, and I think it’s time to set up the Square Deal B, mount the .38/.357 dies and start shooting it a lot more. It carries wonderfully, has a great trigger and is quite accurate.
    Ken

    BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
    revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”

  2. #62
    Site Supporter Rex G's Avatar
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    Another good thing about the SP101, is that I have found that the hammer spur is not a bother, whereas a J-Frame hammer is like a fish hook, catching and snagging on things. So, at least for me, whether an SP101 has a spurred or spurless hammer makes no significant difference. And, if one wants to remove any edges or other material from a hammer spur, S&W hammers, even those with the “stainless” appearance, are carbon steel on the inside, NOT stainless, whereas Ruger hammers are solid stainless.

    The first two of my current* SP101 revolvers came to me with spurless hammers; one left the factory that way, and the other’s hammer may have been de-spurred, as it has a different appearance. Both went through Jack Weigand’s shop, for a Tame The Beast package, minus the porting, and then to my dealer, Alan Yoast, to be sold to me as new firearms. (Jack Weigand had that arrangement with Ruger, at the time. I bought my Wee Beasties in 1997 and about 2002.)

    After buying my second Wee Beastie, I decided to buy a third one, with a hammer spur, to enable carry in a horizontal shoulder rig, and in a field holster, with a retention strap. Notably, this one left Ruger with a very, v-e-r-y smooth trigger pull. This one taught me that the SP101’s hammer spur, at least of that time, is amazingly snag-free. (Ruger has changed the profile, of the hammer spur, a bit, since then.)

    For several years, during the first decade of this century, I tended to carry two or three SP101 revolvers, during personal time. When I was carrying only two Beasties, it might have been because I was also carrying a GP100 or Speed Six. i could shoot an SP101, out to 15 yards, as well or better than a G22, which was my 2002-2004 duty pistol. (When I transitioned to a P229 DAK, for duty, however, that equation changed, as my accuracy with it soon rivaled my 1911 accuracy potential.)

    *I had briefly tried a spurless SP101, in the early Nineties, but understood less about the need to hold HIGH on the grip, and soon traded it away, staying with J-Frames until the late Nineties.
    Retar’d LE. Kinesthetic dufus.

    Don’t tread on volcanos!

  3. #63
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy45 View Post
    I am on the hunt for one of these in .327. I think that would be about perfect! Thanks for the info, do you think it's big enough to shoot in a BUG match or something like that? 50-75 rounds at a time and not be miserable?

    They really do look good.
    I shoot my Gemini Customs SP-101 in .357 with 158-grain SWC at 1100 fps with no issues with the factory Ruger rubber grips. 50-100 rounds per session is no big deal. The factory Ruger grip is very good.

  4. #64
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    Tagged for interest.

    I foolishly sold a Model 65-5 3" yearssss ago and wish I had it back. I paid next to nothing when they were not popular...... now they are high.

    I have started my hunt for a Ruger Speed Six in stainless (.357). I live in South Texas and the humidity has me leaning toward STS.

    While the came in both 2.75" and 3" versions.... the 3" are harder to come by and usually hold a higher price. There is a brand new one on gunbroker right now for stupid $$$$.

    I am watching another one (ruffy) but it already has a lot of bids and still a week to go.

    if i am able to score one.... I will see if I can find a factory de-spurred hammer or dremel will get a workout, then finding a holster.

    I like the SP101, I just wish is was a SIXER!!
    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

  5. #65
    Site Supporter Totem Polar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SW CQB 45 View Post
    Tagged for interest.

    I foolishly sold a Model 65-5 3" yearssss ago and wish I had it back. I paid next to nothing when they were not popular...... now they are high.

    I have started my hunt for a Ruger Speed Six in stainless (.357). I live in South Texas and the humidity has me leaning toward STS.

    While the came in both 2.75" and 3" versions.... the 3" are harder to come by and usually hold a higher price. There is a brand new one on gunbroker right now for stupid $$$$.

    I am watching another one (ruffy) but it already has a lot of bids and still a week to go.

    if i am able to score one.... I will see if I can find a factory de-spurred hammer or dremel will get a workout, then finding a holster.

    I like the SP101, I just wish is was a SIXER!!
    There’s a 4” speed six on GB right now, along with the stupid crazy LNIB in box 2k guns.

    I just picked up a 2.75” Speedy at my magic LGS. I wasn’t looking, but when something at the right price pops out of the horn o plenty, what else can you do?
    ”But in the end all of these ideas just manufacture new criminals when the problem isn't a lack of criminals.” -JRB

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Totem Polar View Post
    There’s a 4” speed six on GB right now, along with the stupid crazy LNIB in box 2k guns.

    I just picked up a 2.75” Speedy at my magic LGS. I wasn’t looking, but when something at the right price pops out of the horn o plenty, what else can you do?
    sweet pickup.

    I have two K frame 4" and 3 Lframe 4" but they are SQ BUTT.... so I am looking for a 2.75" Speeder!!!!
    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

  7. #67
    Member Zeke38's Avatar
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    My neighbor just purchased a like new one from an estate sale. Looks brand new, 2.75" in 357. The action requires a gorilla to cycle it. Anyone do a kitchen table action tune on these things? What about aftermarket spring kit. I also read that a P95 Ruger 9mm front sight will interchange with the ramp that is on the SS now. Anyone have any experience with the P95 night sight on the front? Suppose to be the same keyway cut and same height of sight.

    Neighbor has a T grip for it a #8.

  8. #68
    Revolvers Revolvers 1911s Stephanie B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeke38 View Post
    My neighbor just purchased a like new one from an estate sale. Looks brand new, 2.75" in 357. The action requires a gorilla to cycle it.
    I bought a couple of guns from an estate sale awhile back. Both felt like that; the problem was they had been over-lubed and the oil had congealed. Once that issue was dealt with, both became sweet shooters.
    If we have to march off into the next world, let us walk there on the bodies of our enemies.

  9. #69
    Site Supporter Rex G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeke38 View Post
    My neighbor just purchased a like new one from an estate sale. Looks brand new, 2.75" in 357. The action requires a gorilla to cycle it. Anyone do a kitchen table action tune on these things? What about aftermarket spring kit. I also read that a P95 Ruger 9mm front sight will interchange with the ramp that is on the SS now. Anyone have any experience with the P95 night sight on the front? Suppose to be the same keyway cut and same height of sight.

    Neighbor has a T grip for it a #8.
    I agree with Stephanie B, here. Look for congealed/solidified oil or other lube, inside the action.

    Kitchen-table-‘smithing? Keep in mind that replacement parts availability is problematic. If a spring, pin, or other small part gets away, or if too much metal is removed from any part, one will be evil-baying, to buy parts cannibalized from other guns.
    Retar’d LE. Kinesthetic dufus.

    Don’t tread on volcanos!

  10. #70
    Member Zeke38's Avatar
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    Yes, thank you Rex and Stephanie, I sold my old Colt DS and Cobra five years ago due to fragility and parts sourcing and know how. Will tear down the SS and clean it, also polish innards at contact points and add a spring kit and reassemble. Then go with my neighbor to the indoor range for a live fire test. Thanks for the reminders, and the tips. I'm thinking Rem Drilube for a new slickness.

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