100ish more rounds of full power buck. The battery "nubbins" (terminals) show a bit more damage, but nothing I am worried about, and nothing "pushed flat".
100ish more rounds of full power buck. The battery "nubbins" (terminals) show a bit more damage, but nothing I am worried about, and nothing "pushed flat".
It's likely that the rechargables are not built as tough as the typical 123's...which I guess would make sense.Originally Posted by RancidSumo
Either way, the batteries stacked on one another like that are going to beat on one another and the battery contacts pretty hard under recoil. I know modlite is the new hotness, but I'm not so sure they've engineered everything as well as Surefire, especially in the realm of lights attached to weapons.
The round counts at which you experienced that are the most concerning thing. Yes, I expect batteries to get beaten up on a shotgun eventually. But you essentially did less than a day's worth of shooting and the batteries are hit that hard. I had to do a whole lot more than that to slightly dish the 123 batteries in my Surefire 870 forend.
My X300 stays on my 1301 with batteries in it in class where the gun is usually run as a loaner. It's seen thousands of shells and it still works. The reliability of the X300 even when strapped to a shotgun is why I'm in no hurry to put a different light on my gun. It may not have the most lumens but the thing just flat works.
3/15/2016
Agreed that damage that soon is totally unacceptable. FWIW, the batteries in this light are not stacked - just a single battery.
I'm having more luck lately with the smaller body running a single 18350 and an o-ring to protect the contact, but I don't have enough rounds with it to say for sure that it is GTG. Hoping to beat up on it more this winter.
I'm pretty happy with where my shotgun setup has landed, so I'm not excited about changing anything at this point (including the light). That said, if these batteries don't hold up to at least a several hundred rounds, I'll have to get something that runs on 123s.
While I know in mi corazón that an X300 is more rugged than a TLR-1, my ancient Streamlump has held up over a great number of total rounds; admittedly, it has never been pounded in a class or a weekend-long session. The thing is now considered low-lumen, but it still beats the snot out of what I thought was adequate before I bought it.
I still can't bring myself to subject my 1x123 Malkoff/Arisaka/Surefire frankenscout to the 870, but I suspect that it would be up to the task (and would mount on the Magpul forend easily).
gn
"On the internet, nobody knows if you are a dog... or even a cat."
My setup from post #3552 in the Beretta 1301 Tactical thread.
Surefire M600U Scout Light (1000 lumens).
Surefire Rail Mount Tape Switch Model SRXX.
Magpul M-LOK Extended Cantilever Scout Mount.
Impact Weapons Components MOUNT-N-SLOT Direct Attach Mount.
(Keep in mind that I'm a left handed shooter.)
Right side:
Switch was mounted to a nine slot section of M1913 rail held to the handguard with M-LOK.
Since this picture was taken, I have swapped the position of the switch and the sling mount.
From the bottom.
I may need to add some wire ties to the cable to help keep it in place:
Left side:
The light sits back from the muzzle ~2". The center of the light to the center of the muzzle is also ~2".
This is the shadow it creates 2' from the wall:
Is the boy you were proud of the man you are?
Fimbo iliyo mkononi, ndio iuwayo nyoka!
This is Modlite with clicky cap in an Arisaka inline scout mount turned "backwards" in the MLOK slot of the factory supplied barrel clamp on the "new" 1301 Tactical. It defiantly requires a set sequence to assemble but I can remove the tailcap and the head with the light mounted. I'll try it for a bit and see how it works. I may move it to the other side (I am right handed) and use a tape switch but the set up as is seems sort of streamlined.
Here is my solution for those that wish to keep the factory for-end and are running the Nordic +2 extension with barrel clamp.
Surefire Scout Pro on the picatinny mount with the tape switch set to some industrial velcro/hook-n-loop on the side of the forend. It's not as streamlined as it would be with the Aridus/Magpul Zhukov for-end and a proper tape switch and light mount but given what you are working with on the factory for-end it works quite well. At least with the hinged mount on the Scout Pro you are able to get the light closer to the center line of bore than you are with an in-line light mount.
The only change I might make is to run the tape switch wire between the barrel and magazine tube but I'm not going to bother with it until the next time I break it down for cleaning.
Here is how I am running my light. It is basically the same as the above poster except I add the GG&G mount for the Pressure pad. Plus I cut a QD cup in the gun so I can run a Tac sling
I enjoyed reading the thread and wish that I too owned a 1301. Infirmity has caused me to be a person in weakened condition, and for this reason weight of a long gun is significant. Therefore, I notice what hangs on the end of shotguns. Some light arrangements to me appear cumbersome. My opinion is that the cliche less is more applies.
I'm thinking about as in figuring doing this: install a Streamlight laser/light device under the barrel of a standard weight Rem 1100 standard weight 20 gauge. Light would be directly in front of magazine cap. Barrel would be cut to fit this arrangement. Disadvantages would be 4 plus 1 capacity and choice of 20 gauge. I would be matching a weapon to my ability to handle it. This weapon that would not be used outside my house.
At some point I think limitations on what you are able to handle with a shotgun mean it makes sense to start thinking about other long guns for inside the home, like a short and light SBR/pistol AR.
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