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Thread: 1301 Light Solution

  1. #21
    Member 23JAZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearFondler View Post
    My original set up was the TLR-1HL with the pressure pad and it was fantastic... Except the cheap ass switch kept breaking at the plug (broke two of them, one form just inserting it and one from recoil, before I got the hint).

    So I went with the KISS method...

    Can you post a picture looking down the shotgun from behind. I’m trying to see how far out the light sits. I can’t stand tape switches and this looks like the best option.
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  2. #22
    Member GearFondler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 23JAZ View Post
    Can you post a picture looking down the shotgun from behind. I’m trying to see how far out the light sits. I can’t stand tape switches and this looks like the best option.
    Sure, be glad to, but it won't be until this weekend as I am on the road during the week.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 23JAZ View Post
    Can you post a picture looking down the shotgun from behind. I’m trying to see how far out the light sits. I can’t stand tape switches and this looks like the best option.
    I'm pretty sure that is the same mount I'm using for the modlite on the previous page of this thread, so that should at least give you some idea.

  4. #24
    Member 23JAZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RancidSumo View Post
    I'm pretty sure that is the same mount I'm using for the modlite on the previous page of this thread, so that should at least give you some idea.
    I agree, however I am trying to see how much closer the light will sit using the built in pic attachment over using MLOK to attach the light to the mount.
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  5. #25
    Member GearFondler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 23JAZ View Post
    I agree, however I am trying to see how much closer the light will sit using the built in pic attachment over using MLOK to attach the light to the mount.
    Hope this helps... Just let me know.




  6. #26
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    One more iteration I’ve been playing with.

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  7. #27
    Member 23JAZ's Avatar
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    This will do until I can get a handguard. Definitely not my first choice but for 20 bucks I can’t complain.
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  8. #28
    Member 23JAZ's Avatar
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    I wanted to keep the gun as light as possible, and as a HD gun the 500 lumen RM1 is plenty of light. I usually won’t do tape switches but I really like this light and you can still operate the light if the tape switch fails. I bore out the holes on the tape switch and used some m-lok hardware to attach it.
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  9. #29
    Member Phaedrus's Avatar
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    Right now I have a Steiner Mk7 on mine, but a couple days ago I ordered the new hardware from GG&G to add sling loops and a rail for a conventional WML. Maybe if Aridus ever gets parts back in stock I'll do something fancier. The Steiner is actually pretty goof bot eventually I'll probably add a Cloud Defensive Rein. I run an OWL on my PWS Mk114 Mod 1/Mod 2 lower, pretty hard to beat that combo of intense high-candela beam, superb tint and physical indestructibility.

    This is my Beretta with the Steiner:


  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by CoGT3 View Post
    Will absolutely work. I had replaced 2 SF Scout lights on my ARs with Modlites so I had an extra SF scout light to use. If buying from scratch pistol light Mlok mounted will do the same thing.


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    You're probably better off using the Modlite on the shotgun. From my experience surefire heads don't handle 12ga recoil too well as they are not potted.

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