1301 Light Solution

[RancidSumo]

Apologies if this has been thoroughly discussed in the nearly 400 page 1301 thread, but what is the current thinking on the best light setup for a 1301 with the Magpul handguard?

I'm thinking some form of scout light with a mount that pushes it as far forward as possible and a remote switch. Any reason to go a different direction (x300, for example)?

Regarding the switch, are you running a momentary only switch or one with a constant on feature? Seems to me that constant on would be ideal, but I can't tell how big of a concern it is without playing with one. I'd think that, unlike with a momentary switch on top of an AR, it might be hard to get good, consistent pressure on the switch while running the shotgun. If it isn't an issue to use the momentary switches, that makes life much easier.

I appreciate any advice anyone can give here. Unfortunately, I don't have any spare lights/mounting hardware/switches sitting around since I have my rifles pretty well sorted and none use the gear I think would be best in this application.

[Erick Gelhaus]

I'm using a SF Scout light with a replacement head attached to the Nordic Comp mag extension clamp. It is wired with a tape switch back on the forearm, attached via velcro and wire ties.

[Les Pepperoni]

I'm using a SF Scout light with a replacement head attached to the Nordic Comp mag extension clamp. It is wired with a tape switch back on the forearm, attached via velcro and wire ties.

Picture?

[CoGT3]

Biggest reason I have found for the Aridus/Magpul conversion. I played with many light mounts off the front and even being 6’4” it was a reach well away from where I wanted my support hand to activate the light.

This my solution, Unity Mlok Hot button with SF scout style light on Arisaka Mlok mount (this a Malkoff head on SF bod).




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[jeep45238]

I'm in a holding pattern on the hand guard, which eventually will be very similar to the above (I want the CROM more).

My current solution is a spare TLR1-HL mounted on the Nordic extension clamp, with the Streamlight long gun kit. It's sticky-taped and zip tied to the hand guard for my support thumb.


https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-T...%2C309&sr=8-14





If you have a TLR1 but nothing else, here's a battery door and pressure switch that'll get it setup.

https://www.amazon.com/Strmlght-Remo...%2C157&sr=8-12

https://www.amazon.com/Strmlght-Remo...%2C157&sr=8-10


There may be cheaper options or a kit, but that's what I found pre-coffee.

[dontshakepandas]

Biggest reason I have found for the Aridus/Magpul conversion. I played with many light mounts off the front and even being 6’4” it was a reach well away from where I wanted my support hand to activate the light.

This my solution, Unity Mlok Hot button with SF scout style light on Arisaka Mlok mount (this a Malkoff head on SF bod).

I was planning on doing almost exactly the same thing (in fact I already ordered the Hot button), but now I'm thinking it may be simpler to just mount the light on the left side and use a click cap. From looking at your pictures, it looks like it would result in the button being in almost the exact same spot as the Hot button, but without the wire to snag on things and a little cheaper.

Do you think the extra ~3/4" reach for the button would make a significant difference in reachability?

[TCinVA]

The Streamlight 870 mount combined with an X300 works great on the 1301.

[jeep45238]

I was planning on doing almost exactly the same thing (in fact I already ordered the Hot button), but now I'm thinking it may be simpler to just mount the light on the left side and use a click cap. From looking at your pictures, it looks like it would result in the button being in almost the exact same spot as the Hot button, but without the wire to snag on things and a little cheaper.

Do you think the extra ~3/4" reach for the button would make a significant difference in reachability?

One could also run a modlight/REIN in a picatinny scout mount on the Nordic extension clamp, with the wire for a no-shadow possible light. Until I had that, I was using an 870 picatinny mount off amazon for $20 with a TLR1-HL long gun kit mounted on that, factory hand guard.

[dontshakepandas]

One could also run a modlight/REIN in a picatinny scout mount on the Nordic extension clamp, with the wire for a no-shadow possible light. Until I had that, I was using an 870 picatinny mount off amazon for $20 with a TLR1-HL long gun kit mounted on that, factory hand guard.

I'd probably lean towards eliminating wires than shadow. I don't fully trust pressure pads and really hate having snag hazard wires hanging all over my guns.

[CoGT3]

I was planning on doing almost exactly the same thing (in fact I already ordered the Hot button), but now I'm thinking it may be simpler to just mount the light on the left side and use a click cap. From looking at your pictures, it looks like it would result in the button being in almost the exact same spot as the Hot button, but without the wire to snag on things and a little cheaper.

Do you think the extra ~3/4" reach for the button would make a significant difference in reachability?

Will absolutely work. I had replaced 2 SF Scout lights on my ARs with Modlites so I had an extra SF scout light to use. If buying from scratch pistol light Mlok mounted will do the same thing.


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