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Thread: Air gap between barrel and frame-Smith and Wesson 686?

  1. #1

    Air gap between barrel and frame-Smith and Wesson 686?

    I looked at a 6” 686 today. There is a small air gap (can see light) between the barrel and frame. It is thin but I didn’t measure it with a feeler gauge. Is this normal? I’m guessing when setting the gap between the forcing cone and cylinder the only adjustment is how far in you turn the barrel when torquing it to the frame. So the gap (if noticeable) is dependent on the placement of the starting threads on the barrel and within the frame. In order to not have a canted barrel and get the forcing cone-cylinder gap correct (0.003-0.006) you end up with a gap that reflects the lack of these considerations when machining. It seems it would require some forethought to start the tapping process for cutting the threads. Any advice as to what one should expect?

  2. #2
    See Jerry Kuhnhausen's S&W REVOLVER SHOP MANUAL. I don't have the latest version (the 5th edition); in my version he discusses the cylinder to barrel check on page 27 and barrel setback on page 95.

    Brownells sells it. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...%2bGUN%2bBOOKS

  3. #3
    Site Supporter FrankB's Avatar
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    My 686+ has a gap at the top and bottom, but none in the area of the actual barrel. All of my Smith&Wesson revolvers have this to some extent. The 686’s gap measures .005”.
    Name:  737D25EA-1614-4276-AEFF-1F834EAD5836.jpg
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    Yes, I did blind myself when the flashlight slipped. 😳😳😳

  4. #4
    That’s what the one I looked at was like. So this is normal?

  5. #5
    Site Supporter FrankB's Avatar
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    Some people make YouTube videos, saying that they’ve sent their revolvers back to Smith&Wesson 14X, and S&W says it’s within spec. The bearing portion (in my opinion), is the threaded section of the barrel. That section is tight on all of my S&W revolvers.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rmiked View Post
    I looked at a 6” 686 today. There is a small air gap (can see light) between the barrel and frame. It is thin but I didn’t measure it with a feeler gauge. Is this normal? I’m guessing when setting the gap between the forcing cone and cylinder the only adjustment is how far in you turn the barrel when torquing it to the frame. So the gap (if noticeable) is dependent on the placement of the starting threads on the barrel and within the frame. In order to not have a canted barrel and get the forcing cone-cylinder gap correct (0.003-0.006) you end up with a gap that reflects the lack of these considerations when machining. It seems it would require some forethought to start the tapping process for cutting the threads. Any advice as to what one should expect?
    The barrel cylinder gap at the factory has been adjusted with a file. Now that manufacturing tolerances are much more precise, some revolvers will assemble without filing. The cylinder slides onto the barrel of the yoke. This dimension must be considered. When wear occurs slack will occur here. Cylinder end shake results.

    Old time fitters used a file and a heavy lead or babbitt bar. Not as precise as you might think.

  7. #7
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    Sep 2019
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    SW Florida
    Quote Originally Posted by FrankB View Post
    My 686+ has a gap at the top and bottom, but none in the area of the actual barrel. All of my Smith&Wesson revolvers have this to some extent. The 686’s gap measures .005”.
    Name:  737D25EA-1614-4276-AEFF-1F834EAD5836.jpg
Views: 633
Size:  20.6 KB

    Yes, I did blind myself when the flashlight slipped. 😳😳😳
    A 686-4 that I bought from a coworker had a gap just like that in the pic . It bugged the heck out of me so I had a gunsmith refit the barrel .
    Looks perfect now .

  8. #8
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    Jun 2014
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    Mesa, AZ
    I had a 586 that displayed that same crack of light. None of the S&Ws I've owned with pinned barrels had such an unsightly lack of fitment. The 586 bugged me until I eventually sold it. Yes I'm old and grumpy but you won't have to listen to me or my kind in a few years. We'll all be in our graves...or re-education camps!

    Dave

  9. #9
    Yes, I’m same way. Regrettably I sold my 1985 era (no dash) 686. It was not like this. Now that the Dems appear to be attacking large capacity magazines, I’m wanting a revolver back. I doubt the gap affects functionality but I never noticed it before since mine was not like that

  10. #10
    Banned
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    Sep 2020
    Quote Originally Posted by Rmiked View Post
    I looked at a 6” 686 today. There is a small air gap (can see light) between the barrel and frame. It is thin but I didn’t measure it with a feeler gauge. Is this normal?
    It shouldn’t be normal but sadly it has become the norm as of late at S&W.

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